Josh33

plenty of threads on best mods to do etc, If I was you I would 1) leave it stock as a rock and enjoy driving a skyline 2) sell it in a year or two and buy a gtr with the money you saved either way you will have fun

+1 stylin' in boronia, they did my head unit, alarm and turbo timer a while back. good install and not too pricey

I would think the homeowner can cancel their contract with the realestate agency on any number of grounds, alot of agents think they are a law unto themselves- sounds like you may have stumbled into a scenario where the agent is 'selling' this house to a mate.. or they could have just been giving you the oldest trick in the book where someone 'buys' the house but at the last minute their finance falls through- oh but theyll let you have it for 10k more than agreed.. Eitherway goodluck with it, keep records of EVERYTHING

http://www.carsales.com.au/all-cars/result...odel_String%7C0 current market I would guess about 10-11k

I'm also an electrician, me and 3 other workmates got the chop a few weeks ago- due to not enough work etc. One scarey thing is when looking at jobs online (might be just my industry) how little there is going.. Stuff i wouldnt touch with a 10ft pole a year ago (maintenance) is now about all there is on offer. Meh it'l all even out eventually though

whether theyre born here or straight off the boat dilligaf, that is such stupid behavior. I mean why on earth would you just do that? unprovoked 3v1 for f**ks sake they could have killed the poor guy. Hopefully the coppers get em fast and we will see how big they are when theyre the meat in a manlove sandwich

corner of Ftg road and burwood hwy silver VE ss commy (flamesuit on), had a quick chat to the guy after i heard him dosing it turns out he's turbo'd it with a full rebuild etc, sounded like it had everybit of 400kw atw as he said it did

lol @ the difference between thread title and last dozen posts

when i was on my p's i had a 10+ year old commodore (flame suit on) most of my mates got loans for reletivley new xr6t's s15's, ss commos etc when i got enough money i bought my skyline outright, its not a gtr but its mine and im more proud of it becouase of the overtime and scrimping i did to get it. In the meantime one mate is still in debt 35k another crashed his nice car and now has another loan (but for a 1980 pulsar, all he could afford) dont let me put you off or anything, if you can seriously afford it go for it, for me I couldnt justify basically paying someone $5-7k for me to get my car 2 years earlier So if you can hold off goodonya, if not do yourself a budget and figure out how much DISPOSABLE income you actually have (it wont be much) then get a loan to suit keeping in mind higher costs that come with turbo cars. Best of luck let us know how you go anyway mate

when you buy a frozen coke from 7-11 and by the time you pay for it and get out of the store its turned into a normal coke

awesome pics very interesting- especially the remains of the old turbine wheel in the cat

I feel you pain I had to get a new one after my waterpump sheared off and took the fan and radiator with it Think it was around $350 which is pretty expensive, get on the phone and get prices from wreckers for a 2nd handy, failing that u never know you luck in trading post or similar

pretty sure 33 series 2 is from 96-98, and prices for lines are getting cheaper by the month so you never know, allthough i would suggest getting a well sorted series 1 or even a 32 over a cheap n nasty 33series2. theres a sticky for the model differences- its worth a look to see what you get for the extra dosh. drive different models to see how you like them, best of luck let us know how you go

cool thanks for fast reply's il start with the afm tomorow

I cleaned out the aac valve the other week and car was running great, wamed it up, set it on 900rpm buety.. for a bit. now when I 1st start the car the revs jump from about 1,000 down to 400 every few seconds, ocasionaly stalling out. on light acceleration it coughs and splutters badly. After 3-4 mins, once the temp needles on about 1/4 it runs great Im guessing theres something playing up in the cold start system I've rechecked everything I touched in doin the aac clean, all in and good as far as i can tell r33 gtst with only fmic and exhaust any help would be great

first of all congrats on seeing such a project through looks like yea flywheel kw so whats that translate in rwkw- about 20% off? that would make it about 155rwkw which is pretty much stock rb25det power im not really familliar with the kkr's but it looks like your have the support systems to push boost a little higher safely, but you and your mech will know its limits. it will prob take a few more computer tweaks and dyno runs to iron everything out, but your on the right path i reckon, best of luck dude

just did mine, took about 1.5 hours (pretty thorough cleaning) hardest bit was getting the bottom hose off/on exellent result- no more hunting idle and feels like a much smoother drive also much thanks for the awesome write up- made it very easy

ah cool sorry if it was a noob question but now i know

Hi I was just having a tinker and noticed something a little strage.. theres one hose coming off the wastegate, which then hits a t-piece and splits into 2 one hose goes to the intercooler piping on the inlet (aftermarket fmic) which is right the other has been plugged up with a screw, with a small hole drilled into the hose before the plug.. car runs fine, I was just wondering why it was set up this way, I'm assuming a few people have something similar to this as it was done by a reputable mech r33 gtst only mods are exhaust and cooler cheers

or nearest offer

selling the stock 16" rims, with nuts. no tires, 3 are very good condition, one with gutter rash SE suburbs, Melbourne $150

um... dual pass or single pass is it custom piping or did it come with the cooler, if so unless its a name brand they dont 'bolt on' nine times out of ten anyways and you will need to hack your front bar

awesome man your a legend

just replaced water pump and was wondering if anyone knew the values of torque that the 8 or so water pump bolts need, as well as the other bolts that needed to be taken out if they need torqueing too (cam cover, the 2 altanator bolts, big 27mm main pulley bolt) because my old one was sheared in half i want to get it right 1st time did a search but couldnt find anything so any help greatly appreciated, thanks