ltcree

Might be interested in the 14 diff, got anymore info about it, how it drives? also any pics(preffer internal)? Also do you know what ratio is in it?

Not sure if anyone does racks, best bet would be to get your knuckles moddified. This can give many benefits such as low ration lock eg 2 turns lock to lock, more lock , different ackerman angles. Head over to nissansilvia.com and check out the moddified knuckles thread in drift chat (its sticked), these guys there that can mod your knuckles.

You just need adjustable arms. Heres a pic of the arms you need. Pic is before I had coilovers. I'm running tein flex's with 6kg's all round, want to go harder but its my daily/drfiter so these work fairly well.

Ive seen people mod the shocks, think its just the rears?, where they cut off the fork fitting and weld on an eye fitting but dont think its that great an idea.

Cusco used to do them, you find them on yahoo auctions every now and again, as said above not sure if it'll be benefitial. Otherwise they seem hard to find. EDIT found one: http://page22.auctions.yahoo.co.jp/jp/auction/l37040651

6 boost does full braided kits all to the correct length.

Sounds like your engine is seized. If it were a starter motor issue you would still be able to roll start it. Try turning the engine over by hand (socket and ratchet), if you cant turn it you have a major issue.

What brand tyres are the 17's?

A bit more info could be helpful. Does it do it turning both ways? Does it sound more from the front or rear? rpm, speed of vehicle etc.

We've had one guy come in at work who bleed his system with non gen fluid and was having vdc issues. If your getting pre/post track checks from your nhpc they'll bleed them then, otherwise I havent heard/seen any non gen fluids around yet.

Yeah for pads and rotors its about $12000 approx for gen nissan parts.

I think its either a purple or brown (2pin?) plug, cant remeber off the top of my head. It'll be running rich because you dont have you AFM connected, probably wont rev very well either.

Correct and we just had the first 10 spec 35 and it doesnt have it either.

Theres a few different things the clicking noise can be. There is the pins through the calipers have a small piece on them which can rattle over bumps, and also puting a slight bit of grease on the wheel to hub matting face seems to fix a few of them when its not the pins. Alot of them its from the drivetrain, and is normal operating noise.

Fairly similar to my setup except I dont have any cams yet, you should get about 310-315rwkw with that setup. Only thing different on mine is I'm running a Vi-pec maf-less ecu. I like it more only really because it tidys up the engine bay a little with no afm and just a 4" pipe from my filter to my turbo. I'm also running sard 550's (i'm sure the 5cc's wont make much difference). With your castor rods dont use bush items they're better than the standard liquid filled bush item but I find them still a little sloppy. I'm pretty much running all project-d adjustable arms through mine and fells really stiff. Also get the castor arm tension rod too.

I'm no expert with tuning but I remember reading a thread with Guilt-toy tuning a Vipec, think it was on a rb25 though. He might be able to help you out a whole bunch.

you'll find out when its tuned as most tuners usually match your redline to your powerband.

hey guys, on the way home today i lost part of my clutch travel, it'll just engage gears but as you put it in it'll slightly move, so the clutch isn't fully disengaging. I've checked for leaks and tried bleeding the system which hasn't helped, check the pedal bracket (which i weled 6 months ago) which is ok. the only other thing is the clutch pivot bolt. is there any way of checking it without taking out the g/box? also since the thrust bearing has had a slight bit of noise like its riding. any help much appreciated. Also about half the pedal is freeplay, i tried adjuting it and it got better but it should unadjust itself! Anyone thats had a pivot bolt break what sort of pedal did you have?

ok i've just reset the ecu as well but no difference, it has to be something to do with the iac/acc valves opening to far but I dont know why!!!!!!

I would stay away from some of the "copies", as they are not copied all that well, best thing to do with the copies is makes sure they can supply flow test results as alot of them are not very good when it comes to even flow.

If it is 15+ volts that is way to high, sounds like a faulty voltage regulator on your alternator. If you have or can get a multimeter put it across your battery and see what your voltage is with can running and not. should be around 14V running depending what is on and 12V when not running. If it is 15V it could freak out a bunch of things.

I have a '93 R33 gtst with a rb25det. Driving it last night it was fine got up this morning to go and clean it and it hunts then stalls. It'll idle fine for about 10-15 seconds then rpm starts to drop away and it stalls, if you blip the throttle when it does this it'll come back to idle fine again for about 10 seconds then do the same thing all over again. Things i have checked: Coil packs were replaced with spitfires about 3 months ago and the ignition module was replaced at the same time for a misfire problem. O2 sensor was replaced about 6 months ago have checked it and is reading fine. Checked the AFM seems to be reading fine, does lose signal or anything when idle drops. IAC and AAC valves seem ok, compensating when cold and when loading up with A/C or full lock on P/S - removed and cleaned these anyway just to bew sure, no change. check TPS setting as well. Checked resistance of coolant temp sensor changes with temp - not sure on resistances but seems ok. No air leaks that are visable, went over all hoses with spray no change in rpm. Other than that seems to run fine on the road, no change when its hot or cold. Otherwise I'll talk to Nissan tomorrow and see what they say.