Brandon

C spec is 780PS based on the datasheet. I'm assuming thats fly too. I think PS and HP are about the same.

Very true. Once I check the pressure after driving from Brisbane to Gold Coast on a hot day and its showing 58 (was 40 at cold)! I got a shock of my life and immediately reduce it. I normally set mine to 38 (cold) these days and around 34 (cold) for some spirited driving.

Looks like the 300 I'm saving by going with standard model can be spent on the slave...? Hahaha.

I believe they're different. Even though they might be built by Exedy, the design would be from Nismo. Isnt that the same for injectors and turbos? As far as I know, the likes of Nismo, HKS etc dont make their own, someone else manufacture them to their design/spec. The outcome is a superior product at a premium. You can argue its not worth the extra dollar but its up to individual. I'm dead set certain I'll get Nismo at least for clutch, injectors, fuel pump and AFM. Turbo? The slight better response from HKS isnt worth the extra money for my application. You can only research that much and at the end of the day its up to you to decide what you want and you should know what suits your budget and application best. Multiple 9sec doesnt equate to easy on the foot. So far, I've narrowed it down to Coppermix and ATS carbon. And yes Jim Berry will 100% be cheaper. Not a lot of clutch cost above $2000. If you have a choice why go the uncomfortable way? It something you can choose. And my choice is easy on my foot. Good review from you though. You're the first I know that didnt like the Coppermix. Up to today Coppermix has been the perfect scored one... lol.

Excellent. Just what I'm after. I thought its the other way round? Doesnt easy to drive means you can ride the thing? Thanks guys. I've got the answer I need but I might pay that extra 300 and rebuild the box just to forget about the whole system in the future.

Thanks dude. I saw that in the datasheet but I'm more interested in the comfort comparison. The extra power capability is good to have but I wonder if its any harder than the standard clutch. And from the review, most people have the standard one anyway. A bit off the original topic, this is what I've posted on another topic. Any opinion on what to do?

Looks like nobody's got the competition model. The other problem is Nismo doesnt offer warranty for the competition model even though its more expensive and supposed better (471kW for standard and 574 for competition on the datasheet). Thanks for the feedback guys.

Anyone got any idea whats the difference between these 2 other than the cost (standard is around $300 cheaper)? Is it worth the extra if you're just after 300kW or potential 400kW at the wheel? The reason why i've gone with the twin and not single is because of the ocassional launches. Check (if you live in usa): CVS Weekly Ad, or Myer specials. I'm assuming the twin will be bullet proof at that power with launches. One more thing is, the main reason for going with the Nismo is comfort and reliability. If the standard one does the job and is easier on the foot, I would choose that over the competition one. Cheers.

Sorry if I'm hijacking the topic. I experience crunching from 3rd to 4th on high rev (e.g. 7000rpm). It does go in but you can hear the crunching noise. However, this only happens on load and never when I shift below 6000rpm. <BR><BR>Another problem which happened ages ago and only once was grinding noise when engaged in reverse gear after a drag day. A quick summary of what happened that day was 3x 6000-7000rpm launches and grinding starts. Drove the car nicely and after that day, the sound went away. Might be something loose from heat expansion? <BR><BR>I know its a million dollar question but if it was you, would you rebuild the gearbox or would you just try using redline? I am planning to change the clutch if that helps making the decision. Rebuild by my mechanic was quoted around 1.5k - 1.8k (everything included except for buying the clutch)

Alright someone come pick this up for 200!

Bump. 300?

Reasonable offers will be considered. Come on people. Need these gone!

bump

Bump

No idea. Thats what my mechanic told me. He had to bend it to suit.

Bump! Good rotors for sale or make an offer!

Accidentally posted in the wrong section, price dropped to 350 pick up for these. http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/topic/352892-r33-gtr-rotors/page__pid__5661957#entry5661957 Also will have a set of 4 white LMGT4s 19x9.5 +12 with Bridgestone Potenza RE050A 285/30/18 all round (50%?) for sale soon if anyone wanna secure them. Selling for 1.5k for all 4 with rubber, cache is 1 of the rim is damaged but with the tyres and condition of other rims, they make good replace/repray/drifting sets. Another thing to note is I will getting TE37 from Japan and the LMGT4s are only available after the TE37s arrives (Rays doesnt have an ETA date for the LMGT4s, sorta discontinued and I hate myself for damaging that rim...).

Someone was selling a reprayed one in black recently and was snapped up within 30mins? Might be that set I reckon.

Got the line installed but just to let everyone know, you gotta modifiy the fitting a little to make it fit. According to Dan (the mechanic that does all my work) the banjo is at an angle which will cause abrasion. Thats for the 33GTR.

Just google it. I havent got a photo handle but its damn obvious. If you bend down at the rear and look straight in the middle, you will see the diff. If it doesnt have cooling fins (like heatsink), its a non-v spec.

They're not. I got a quote once before and the difference is bugger all. A lot of times when buying 2nd hand people get rubber in decent condition as well which will bring the 1k saving up a lil. And most people that can afford Rays, more than likely the rubber would be worth more than 1k or 1.5k brand new. The saving would then easily be 1.5k. Another point to note is the waiting time for these rims can easily be couple of months. My recent quote for 18x10.5 white TE37 says the ETA date is mid of March and LMGT4 doesnt have an ETA date at all.

Someone just sold his reprayed black for 3k+ with rubber (18x9.5 +12) Just a couple of weeks ago I asked for a quote and Rays didnt have an ETA date for 18x10.5 in white. TE37 however, ETA date is mid March.

If you're looking for shock/spring combo, look no further because Dan does!

Dude I reckon the TE37 and LMGT4 are worth around 3k without rubber and above 3k with rubber in good condition (little to no rash and damage). Possibly around 2.5k-3k with rubber/without rubber for damaged ones.

Dude thats awesome. I hope thats a good sign for me because I'm looking at selling mine slightly cheaper in the next month or 2 because I CBF repair the rashes... Gonna get a new set of TE37 in 10.5 as the LMGT4 doesnt have a ETA date. I suppose thats what made them "desirable" these days. Quite reluctant to let go though.... PS: Sorry hijack but in the mean time I dont mind people PM me if they're interested so I know hows the market like. They're 18x9.5 +12 white with Bridgestone RE050A 285/30/18 (50% thread?) 3 are in good condition and 1 with pretty badl rash (more than 1/2 the rim). Will get a quote to repair them but I dont really wanna repair them myself (just too lazy and thinking of getting wider rims).