Brandon

He said ANOTHER $700 which means $1400 all up for another rims and rubber. Anyway for cheap fix, just powdercoat them if you like the rims. If you're thinking in that direction and wallet allows, get the rims and rubber then. Most people I know change their rim when rubber is almost bald anyway. Unless you really like the rims.

Yes thats what this forum is for but as mentioned, try using the search button. Generally everyone's very helpful and friendly here but if you're here for years, threads like this do get a bit annoying (when heaps of info is on the forum). Unless you're having some special build, this type of thread is pointless. Just back on your question, depending on boost, generally anywhere between 220awkw-240awkw with 12-14psi. Add another 80hp and you should have a rough idea on flywheel hp. ps: thats with a tune too.

. You'll get used to this sorta crap soon enough. Thats probably the only thing closest to boost you'll find in this section!

Thats what I thought. And I'm pretty sure with the Apexi ECV, you can control the position of the valve though the controller. I've downloaded the manual before and there's a knob which you can adjust the percentage.

How many people actually got fined for $10,000? Can anyone provide details as to why they got fined $10,000? Is that a fine from the cops or from EPA? Was it on the spot or when you're going through the pit? http://www.boostcruising.com/forums/index....0225&st=150 But again like everyone said, its not worth the risk with the amount of gain. I just asked the question out of curiousity as I reckon that kinda fine is a bit ridiculous especially when a defect fine is only $100.

I thought the ECV can be adjusted from 0-100%? It wouldnt be a 0.5" system if you dont have it at 100%. I was under the impression that you can have it at 20-40% when cruising to reduce the drone and maybe 80-100% when getting pulled over.

I'd like to know the difference too because I'm thinking of doing that. If it drops at least 2 or 3dB, I'll be happy.

lol. I had the same problem and I thought I might have created a thread for this before. ANYWAY, quick and easiest fix is tyre shine. Make sure the lip is damp and spray the tyre shine on it. It'll last for ages (its still black after 2months?) If you want you can even sand it and make the surface smoother. Before After

Hmmm... I'll talk to Dan when the time comes then since he'll probably be installing anyway

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/7-...ts-t254450.html This is a very popular topic. I'm suprised you actually missed it... Anyway, anyone knows where would be the cheapest to get the garretts range of turbo? Or is Streeter still the way to go?

Doesnt matter mate. Just reset your meter when you fill up and note how much you travel and top up the next time. You'll be able to work out a L/100km or km/L consumption easily. A tank consumption isnt always accurate because you dont know how much L you've used, unless you run it till it stop.

Welcome aboard!

www.erd.com.au

As everyone said, if you're not looking at spending huge amount of money, stick with 300awkw as a target. Even that will cost. The next GTR I get will definitely be one thats got work done or one that is similiar to the N1 (maybe a NUR? hahaha). Cost breakdown as per below (all brand new parts); 1) Catback Exhaust = $1400 2) Dump Pipes = $500 (probably dont have to change if you've got a 34GTR but normally 32/33 will change them when doing turbos) 3) Turbo = $3000 4) ECU = $1400 5) Oil Cooler = $500 6) Clutch = $2500 (I would only like a Nismo Super Coppermix Twin personally but could be way cheaper if you go exedy or npc) 7) Boost Controller = $600 8) Tuning + Installation of ECU/Boost Controller = $1000 9) Metal Hi-Flow Cat = $350 10) Adjustable Coilovers = $1500 11) Labour = $2000 Thats almost $15,000 worth of mods and I would consider these to be basic essential GTR mods for you to enjoy the car's potential. By this time, your car would be very realiable at anywhere between 250awkw-300awkw (depending on your tune etc). If you want dead set 300awkw or slightly above, you'll need fuel system upgrade too and below are some extra cost. 12) Injectors = $1000 13) Fuel Pump = $350 14) Assuming you do not have AFM or else another, AFM = 700 Bare in mind, these will not be the end if you bought a dead stock GTR because you will want to change the rims, brake pads, rotors etc at some stage and the cost just keeps going up. Thats assuming the engine is still running good. Upgrading the oil pump would be preferred but its a BIG job so not a lot of people would do it. Also if you're doing major service, maybe chuck in the N1 water pump because they've got lesser blades.

From personal experience, Dan from ERD for any mechanical work (top bloke and always ready to help) and Gavin Woods from Autotech for tuning. The tuning bit might vary according to your ECU. Having said that, if I ever get the car retuned, I might try Matt Spry from Pits.

Gonna head there when I'm back in town. Called him up yesterday and he told me he's booked out normally for a fortnight and sounded like a nice bloke. Thanks buddy. I've also spoken to John and he mention Link's got his 34GTT done there too. Got a couple of recommendations from others when I did a search too (old threads). Thanks for all the referrals.

Hmmm... interesting. Never heard or read anything about this anywhere. Can you PM me said place? If its Tuesday night, it might be that meet for photoshooting someone posted some time ago (I think magazine shots too). http://www.boostcruising.com/forums/index....howtopic=619802 Yea I wouldnt mind after I've jack the car higher.

The mobile number I've got is disconnected...

Just trying to get some price in fixing a couple of flaws in the car. Scratches around the car and rust along the welding marks around the strut top. I've called Dan but PNM or something he recommended does smash repair and not the work I required done. To give you an idea, this is what I want done (more concern about the rust than scratches). According to the topic poster, it cost him around $1000. http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/St...st-t284534.html http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/St...st-t303218.html The photos looks good when its finished too...

Any recommendations??

Hi there. We're having people living further away from Brissy now. Lol. I hardly see any Skylines in Mackay when I do dropby during work.

Whereabouts are you? I've got a couple of small flaws which I'm looking at getting fixed in the future. I dont mind showing you and getting a rough idea on how much it'll cost. Maybe PM your number and we can arrange for something next time I'm back in town.

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/R3...ox-t328372.html I dont know how the GTST setup is but could this be the reason??

Sorry mate, just re-read the thread and saw M35 instead of V35... hahaha. Theres a few active Stagea guys down the goldcoast if you're keen on meet up.

Yea mate you cant wrong with streeter.