Brandon

Just wait for some dyno day and jump in for a power run. Only cost like 50bucks for them instead of hiring a dyno (setup + run just for 1 car would be close to 1hr I would imagine, around 150/hr for 4wd dyno). And since 32 is just a fuse away from awd to rwd, I wouldnt be paying extra for awd at all. Checking the turbo might be hard depending on how accessible they are but injectors should be easy. You can normally tell by the colour of them and jump on Nengun to check what size they are. Andy: that 10kW is pretty subjective because temperature plays a bit part in dyno and every car is different (not really comparing apples with apples). Unless you got 2 dynos side by side and do the same car on the same day, the claim of gtr's awd power is higher than rwd mode power is quite hard to answer (due to attessa system). Just for everyone's information, my car was tuned at Gavin Woods' using 4WD dyno and had 340awhp (end of august). But during the dyno day at EFI which was 2wd dyno, it only managed 330rwhp (21st november).

Sorry to dig up an old thread but I would like to get some feedback for the r tune pads. How are they like in terms of performance, dust and noise (sqeaking)?

Do you still have the tool kit??

They dont and even NURs dont come with oil cooler. Only N1s come with them. Mine is always sitting at the bottom of the gauge (75?) when driving around and hottest is around 90+ I think during the SAU drag day which was in the midst of summer! Only did 4 runs though...

No idea man... I just thought of asking the question because I've been reading so many good things on such courses down south

Curry at Taj tomorrow? Anyone? Around 7ish. Adam: I'll pick you up if you wanna come.

ET20? is that +20? I think that does fall into the GTR offset range (+12 to +24). Anyway you can easily fix it by rolling the guards like what Brad said and you'll have a better looking stance than most GTST on the road.

I've been keeping an eye on the market as well. The price you have are realistic but V-spec II has come down in price since a couple of months ago or even longer. You should be able to get them for less than 70k. Anything more than 70k will have to be a NUR or N1 (or maybe a standard M-spec). V-spec however is a bit hard to gauge because most people get these and for modding. A good 1 can range from 50k to 65k easily depending on the work done to it. Personally I would get a worked V-spec or a NUR/N1 because it'll save me time and money in modding myself. Just my two cents worth.

I'm 28 this year living in Brisbane south (Sunnybank Hills). As mentioned before, this is my first car and its a GTR. Shannon's excuse is they would like more driving history for a car like a GTR to be insured which is fair enough. Doesnt really bother me since Justcar's premium isnt bad at all. Like what Donna said, Shannon insure car on a case by case basis so theres nothing much I can do about it.

Whats the model of the actuator? I need something that will hold boost for more than 18psi for the N1 turbos I have.

Thanks for these. Really what I need to know. I guess I'll just go for the skidpan next time when they have it. Just thought of asking since I saw a lot of good reviews from the boys in Sydney about their advanced driving courses. Cheers.

Oh right... I forgot to mention its my first car which contributes to them rejecting me too. f**k thats alright.

Not a GTR unfortunately.

Seriously, the only thing I would look out for to check if the Ks are geniune is 1) if dials line up (100% you'll be able to tell) 2) engine condition (hard to tell because of history on how its been driven but so long as it's good, doesnt matter) 3) wear and tear (again, hard to tell because of history. You wouldnt know how rough the previous owner is or if he/she got shitloads of rings on his fingers which explains the wearing on gear knob and steering wheel). So realistically, you can only be certain about no.1. And as mentioned, even with logbooks you'll cant be 100% sure too.

Its always quiet...

I find that hard to believe. I've rung Shannon and Suncorp just to check recently and Shannon doesnt insure a daily car and Suncorp was like 2k. I'm sticking with Just Car for now at around 900 premium and 1.5k excess. PS: Daily Car = one and only car regardless of how many times you drive a week. The other condition to fulfil if you have 2 cars is you can only drive the insured car for 2 or 3times a week if I remembered correctly.

I'm looking at doing one and just checking if anyone's done it before. What sort of things would you be expecting and is it worth it? All recommendation and suggestion is welcomed. Thanks

Good morning!

Havent driven a lot of cars before but my current one is the best!

I'm waiting for mine to arrive from Japan as we speak. I have spoken to someone that sat in a car with jap spec ss and aus spec and his comment was if 1 is more than 300 or 400bucks cheaper, get that one. The choice is obvious. Having said that, if you're after some info on the aus spec one, you can always call Fulcrum Aus up and ask them. They told me they have different spring rate and revalves to suit Aus road. All that for almost 1k dearer...

I'll take the side indicators if this fails. I saw its got BCNR33 on the box. Can you please confirm? I'm using it for my 33gtr. Thanks.

I'm sure you can keep it and buy a house if you stop modding it! Just hold it off for now and save up more!

Very well price mate. I'm sure with a bit of patient someone will take it for that price. Good luck.

Woooo. What does that translate to? Another 2weeks before they arrive at our door steps?

Congratz!!!