ztune_R34

Hi all, I've finally got a brand new Nismo combination cluster for R34 GTT. - Did anyone manage to transfer odometer readings from the old cluster onto the new one? - Does anyone know a workshop in Sydney area that can do the job? - Is it possible to register odometer change with RMS (RTA) without transferring the odometer readings from the old cluster onto the new one? All help is appreciated.

If you want to replace high beam bulb on R34 the Philips HB3 Hallogen bulb is near perfect fit. You'll need to slightly modify the plastic fitting in order to fit it in, 20sec. job and you'll be sweet. I've just done it today.

If you have aftermarket BOV and it's leaking you'll have this problem.

It's nismo R34 aftermarket cluster worth about $340 new. I wanted to buy one for the sake of boost gauge but I ended up getting aftermarket electric boost gauge as it was cheaper option.

Cheap Option?????!!!!!!!!!!!!! How much can you get it for? I think it's pretty good if you can get it cheap but it's not a big deal to install additopnal aftermarket boost gauge and make it look neat, it'll probably be chaper option than getting nismo cluster. it also depends on how much boost you gonna run but I think it would be pretty accurate.

Hi, I've got the same problem with loud tapping sound on my R34 GTT except that it isn't always there, it's intermittent. I suspect VVT as it's comming from around the same area where VVT is situated on the intake cam. I know that SR20 from S14 and S15 are notorious for noisy VVT so I suspect that RB might have the same problem. It'd be interesting to know what your mech's verdict would be.

I've installed one on my R34. You'll run approx 12 PSI and it's a direct bolt-on, no modifications needed.

Follow up as promised, I bought an electric boost gauge and instaled it today. Quite a labor intensive task I must say. The gauge showed that car is running 7PSI without dual stage boost controll (disconnected) and 12PSI with dual stage boost controll (connected). If the gauge is accurate then it is quite safe to install R32 RB20 wastegate actuator and gain some power on the chaep. Now, the boost gauge that I bought is of "Auto Gauge" brand and it's an electric type that reads up to 30PSI. Does anyone use those gauges, are they accurate?

I'm pretty sure that I have only cat back exhaust and compliance cat as the front part of the exhaust is still surrounded by factory shielding. I must admit that it's not too bad for a factory exhaust (compared to what I had in my series 1 S14 200SX). From my experience with my previous car, the S14, cat back does make hell of a difference in response and outright power as I've replaced stock exhaust with HKS cat back split twin cannon system and I did notice quite a bit of difference as well as higher boost levels. So cat back that was on the car when I bought it might be the reason why it has higher boost than normal. I wander what does the standard boost gauge show on stock as a rock manual R34 GTT at a maximum boost? Is it 0.5 KG/cm2 or more? If more then what's the figure? I will be getting full 80mm exhaust from turbo back sometime down the track though. R34 SMIC is rated at 200rwkw so it's still adequate for what I'm doing. I don’t get flat spots, miss fires and what not, I was looking out for them after reading stuff on the net so I consider myself lucky in this regard. Well currently I’m trying to borrow a boost gauge of someone to get more accurate reading, as soon as I’ll be able to do this I’ll post figures on this forum. As I’ve said before currently I’m sunning boost just a little bit higher than before or maybe it’s my imagination (around 10 PSI) with stock boost control solenoid disconnected, as soon as I connect solenoid, boost goes through the roof, well it’s more than 1KG/cm2 which is more than 15 PSI but these figures are not exact so….

Well I couldn't wait till tomorrow so I tried it now with disconnected soleniod. The boost came down to about 0.8 kg/cm2 which is just a little bit higher than stock so I still have minor improvement over stock but I'm a little disapointed. I'll still get an aftermarket boost gauge and give you exact boost figure that I'm running now with R32 wastegate actuator. Huh well got to look for a steel turbine wheel now. Can anyone recomend good workshop in Sydney that can change ceramic turbine wheel to steel wheel as I'm pretty satisfied with the stock turbo and connected solenoid. Another option off course is to change the turbo, any thoughts on what's the closest to stock turbo I can get that has steel turbine wheel and will fit without any modifications?

For those who is interested I did a little reseatch and here is what I found. "In standard form the R34 runs a two stage boost control system 5psi to 4500 rpm then 7psi to red line 7000 rpm." "turbo’s exhaust wheel is ceramic and they tend to fail if to much heat is generated. The amount of boost you can run with the stock turbo is debatable but I don’t recommend running more than 10 psi." "R32GTST wastegate actuator is exactly the same as the R34 except the spring inside is set for 10psi. R32 actuators can be hard to find but I think it’s the best option for this level of modification as boost spikes and boost creep are eliminated. No mater which system you choose the 2 stage boost control system should be disconnected." Therefore I will disconnect solenoid tomorrow and let you know how I go.

Well I'll rephrase my question. How does it add PSI? I thought solenoid either closed or opened therefore wastegate is either closed or opened which means that there is only 2 states in which wastegate can be not 3 like half opened wastegate and solenoid is there to control those two states (fully closed or fully opened), I might be mistaken. Can anyone shed some light on this?

I'll try disconnecting the solenoid and see how I go. what's the purpose of the solenoid anyway?

Oh then HPI magazine is full of crap.....

maybe it is, I'll have to follow it up with a cheap boost gauge just to see but I will eventually buy a whole centre console nismo cluster ($370) with 1.4 bar boost gauge. I thought that all skylines or at least 33's and 34's had an overboost protection built into the ECU where it will cut fuel if boost levels will reach dangerous levels, is it correct?