Mullett86

The plugs have been done, but not the fuel filter. There's a small brown burn on the rear bar, but not a trace of black smoke on acceleration. It behaves exactly the same on stock boost, which makes me wonder. And the problem is definitly far, far worse on a warm day (30-odd today), it's almost undriveable at anything more than 20% throttle. No power, surges, it's all over the place. Driving me insane! RM.

Good stuff, keep that info coming! I'm only running about 8psi of boost, and the symtoms occur even at the competely factory boost setting. I can't find a P/N on the AFM, not on the top anyways. All it has is the 'Nissan' symbol. Apart from that, near the plug, it's blank. The plug has 5 pins, but only 4 wires. The connection missing is the one closest to the air filter. Does that help at all? Maybe it isn't a standard one. Today was warmer, about 30deg, and the car runs awfully. Good boost, but bugger all power, and revving it past 5 just isn't an option, it feels BAD. RM.

$65 posted to perth? PM me in case I loose this thread RM.

That's another possiblity, it sure feels like lean out. I have no idea about the injectors, although there's a chance it has a z32 AFM on it, and the ecu wires have been spliced in the past and then snipped. So maybe it has a bigger AFM (I have no idea how to tell them apart, does anyone know part numbers?) and haas been re-tuned in the past and then the interceptor has been pulled out. I'm starting to think it's a bit of a bitsa. RM.

I was wondering if anyone had a way to test the CAS for proper function? I'm having a high-rpm problem with my R33 GTS-T. Basically 5k-redline it pulls and surges a little, boost pressure rises and the power drops noticably in spurts and surges up to the redline. It has new coilpacks and a new fuel pump, so I'm starting to run out of ideas. Maybe 02 sensor? But I didn't think that impacted full-load fueling. I've cleaned the AFM and checked for vacuum leaks...Any ideas? RM.

Where I used to work, we sold a huge amount of crow gear, and I never heard a bad word about their product. If you're happy with the grind and lift that the cams offer you, then there's absolutely no reason not not to use them. At the end of the day, it's 'just' a camshaft, and a tomei cam next to a crow cam with the same grind, will do the same job, and very likely a fair bit cheaper. Be careful of getting caught up in brand-naming The hot jap cars use the hot jap brands, but they're a whole lot cheaper over there...if there's a quality local product cheaper than the jap product, it's the way to go Unless you want the sticker for your door... RM.

Yep, from the standard reference point on the factory cooler pipe just before it goes under the tray. I put the timing light on it yesterday, I think it was on the 2nd notch from the left? It seems to have 6 notches. Also, do you need to jump a connection to properly check the timing on these? If so...which one? And which timing mark should it be lining up to? Cheers, RM.

Having several (annoying) problems with my R33. It's a series 1 turbo manual, bought it about 2 months ago. It had: Exhaust Turbosmart 2-stage boost controller BOV It now has: Exhaust FMIC Turbosmart 2 stage New coilpacks (they were causing a misfire) K+N pod BOV removed and replaced with a stock one Bosch 040 And it has a few issues. 1) overboosting. With the wastegate acutator hose directly to the intake pipe, it'd get an extra couple of psi at 5k rpm, and it would loose power, like it was struggling against something. 2) Loosing power at mid-throttle at cruise, say 4th gear trying to pull up a hill. Boost goes up, car feels like it's being held back. I've tried with and without the boost controller connected, and it behaves in exactly the same way. I'm stumped, this is my first Nissan, and so far it's been a pig Is it possible that the FPR is sad, and it's leaning out? Would this cause the boost to INCREASE? And sometimes it runs like a dream, sings out sweetly to the redline with stable boost. Just not very often. Any help would be great guys, cheers. RM.