br3ndan

how much was that one? As my budget is around the 500 dollar mark for the clutch kit it self... Any personal experinece with lighten fly wheels as well? Ive search and read a few threads but no conclusive thread on whether i should spend the extra dollars on one or simply machine the old one. I have read that the cushion button does not hold as much power as the button clutch... is this true?

Hey guys So my i think my clutch is starting to go... and as far as im aware it has never been changed... there was no details on it when it came from japan on whether it had been changed or not. Ive already worked out who im buying it off.. that would be Kudos as i have bought from him before and his service is just AAA... Ive been researched what clutch to buy for a good few months now as ive been expecting it to go at anytime.. and im stuck between the exedy hd button and exedy hd cushion button. Cushion button is about 100ish dollars more... is it worth the extra dollars? Is itmore of a comfort thing or performance? Can anyone who has these clutches shed some experience on this for me? Just a quick run down on the car...My car power wise is more or less stock. (I find modding for handling more fun and rewarding). And probably the most i would do is tune with the SAFC 2, boost would more or less stay the same. So we are looking at stockish power.

hey guys i just swapped it out. Very easy. just take out the 2 nuts inside the centre console put ur hand under it and give the hand brake boot a bit of a push and squeeze and it will come off. Dont forget to unbutton it. slide the new one in place (over the top of the hand brake) and just mould the wire frame into the plastic clips... button it up and done! all fixed...

as u suggested its usually only meant for accidents that were ur fault or loss of licence etc etc. not for getting dermit points... for example going 12kmh over the limit and getting 1 dermit point.

haha... agreed nows its just down to finding the actual car

What do you mean its always going to be someones elses work? Ive yet to send my car to a workshop (apart from wheel alignments and the proffesional alarm install). All my mods have been done in house. Although It does help my dad is a car nut and i have access to all the tools i need to get things done. This ranges from installing intercoolers, radiators, exhaust systems to gauges to painting and fitting a body kit and not to mention maintaence work... Like its been said above it all comes down to whether its your hobby or not. I enjoy working on my car and thats why i chose to get a relatively stock r33 over a worked one. I wanted to do the work... and if you can do it ur self its not that expensive. You just got to becareful what you buy and when you buy it. I do agree if you do not wish to do the work or simply dont have access to the tools then a worked example will be the choice for you.

That would depend on what he wants out of the car tho. If he is anything like me a stock example would be better. If you want to build it ur self and make it truely your car then stock is the only way to go. If you dont mind driving someone elses work then by all means go for a worked r33. =)

ill be along on this cruise regardless of date/time change As long as it sticks to a weekend.

How much did you purchase the seals for? Do u actually cut the old seals? is that why they cant be re used? (Just out of curiosity as the whole point of taking the window out is to replace them. lol.) and what did u use to glue them back in? I would like to avoid changing the window has my car is tinted which means i need to get that area re tinted again...

r u sure it affects ur insurance? When i got my insurance with just cars they didnt even ask for me about past / current dermints / speeding fines. I even asked them if they needed to know about them and the guy said that he didnt need to know. So that would lead me to assume that they dont need to know.

how much are u after for it?

Hey Guys, Im after some direction on how to take out the rear qtr window on a r33 gts t series 1.5 (1995) Im replacing seals on my car mainly as its a 1995 model and its probably a good thing to do and i personally think little things like this is what makes a great car. So just wondering how do i pop out the rear qtr window? Also any ideas on obtaining orginal nissan seals? North side nissan? or should i just go to a window shop and get generic ones? I would assume the generic ones would do the job as well as the original.. however if the orginal seals arent priced through the roof i will purchase them. Cheers for the help guys (again), Brendan

getting it off a guy on the forums pablo101 like the person said above. genuine nissan ones... 50 for the pair. I suggest give him a pm... he may some some left over from last group buy. i plan to do a DIY with pics for this so its easy for people next time

Cheers for you help when it arrives in the post next week ill check if it comes with the wire or not. then that will decide on how i take it off. =)

lol but it still should b able to wheel spin ive seen a r33 rb25de do it. Although its manual... is urs manual?

Ive done a bit of searching on the forum... and ive come across this.... I was hoping to get a more detailed explanation on how to change it? I heard you have to re sew the new leather boot on a wire frame? cant say ive ever sewed in my life lol!! Any help is appreciated!

just cars allow for unlimited modification as long as you let them know.

Why dont u get a stealth FMIC? ARC makes them basically both pipes use the orginal route as the SMIC. no need to cut any holes. ive got a stealth kit on my car. Easier to install as well..

funny eh...alot of u guys not <500 dollar head units... and the antenna stays up.. mine is i think 120 dollar ken wood unit and it my antenna only goes up if the radio is turned on. And if i turn of the car suddenly with the radio on it will still bring down the antenna. go kenwood!! haha

Cutting the speed limiter wire will stuff the speedo up... a cheap opition to do it would be to purchase a second hand apexi rsm... going for roughly 150 second hand... it has the opition to speed cut without affecting the speedo... thats exactly what i have done. Also there are many speed cutting products out there as well to pick from... But an apexi rsm gives so many other opitions as well as speed cut especially if u get lucky like me and get the g sensor for it as well.

water pump leaking? that tends to be sign of "change me" hoses to the firewall leaking? ( passenger side) The drain plug on the engine blow which is on the passenger side leaking? cant think of much else which could be contributing to a radiator leak at the back of the engine..

got april fools?

Group 4 oil is more then high enough for a GTS T that is driven on the street 90% of the time and 10% of the time having some fun on the skid pan. If u getting serious in track days etc and pushing the car then i would probably use a group 5 oil. Otherwise you would be wasting the extra dollars your spending on redline... more so if you are like me and changing oil every 5k.

yeah more or less around that number fully synthetic oil would be good as well.. If u have doubts just get mobile 1 0 - 40... i can assure you from my understanding they are 100% fully synthetic... tho the price of them isnt to b laughed at.. 70-80 per 5 litre depending where u buy it from.

nice karl watch those kerbs tho! with tyres stretched that much theres no protection for the rashes