muaythailuke

Hello all wanta get rid of some gear outa my shed so... **BRAND NEW** Tomei adjustable cam gear (intake) to suit RB26/20 - $200 ** HKS Cams ** 256/264 duration, 8.8/9.0mm lift, intake/exhaust, suit R33 GTS-t - Near new $900 firm ** EXTREME Clutch ** H/D clutch & flywheel 75% wear left on it, suit R33 GTS - $250 R33 GTS-t plenum - $100 R33 GTS-t cross-over pipe & bov - $50 R33 GTS-t dump pipe - $30 R33 GTS-t standard cams - $150 GTR standard cams - $200 R33 GTS-t drivers seat -$150 R33 GTS-t lowered H/D springs(x4) - $50 R33 GTS-t Monza H/D shocks(x4) 1 shock damaged - $50 Sony 10" sub(x2), fairly old but in good working order - $50each Sub boxes, 3 different types all to suit 10" subs - $80 each pics will be posted soon! most prices are negotiable so make me an offer if you’re interested in anything You can contact me via PM Im in Tassie also -Luke

Anyone?????

I have one on my car, with big fuel pump, injectors, FMIC and aftermaket ECU I made 270rwkw at 1bar of boost. Yet to see what it can do with my rebuild engine and larger cams + a few other new mods but should be good I hope

Ive spoken to a few people that have used the qland performance springs and had no worries but other have ive spoken to wouldnt use em in a fit, I may have just got a bad batch I dont know but.... : The problem I was having started about 4000rpm and just got worse, even at low boost (8-9psi)I had problems and just got worse with more boost (up to only 15psi). Even when I chaged back to my standard cams the problem was still there. My rev limiter is set at 7700rpm and I couldnt rev it anywhere near that with these springs. The seat pressure of the standard spring I dont know but I going to test them once I find my old ones but the description that my tuner gave me after he had tested the performance springs I pulled out was, "just a couple of wound up paper clips" Hope that helps

I did a search but wasnt able to find anything, tomei may not be making them anymore but they are still available though All I wanted to know was whether I can use the HKS cams I have or need different cams to suit the soild lifters? :

Yeah they'll shit it in, they are recommended for anything up the 8.8mm lift so 8.5mm will be fine Im thinking of getting myself a set now as I cant find anything else, my intake cam has 8.8mm lift so it will be fine but my exhuast has 9.0mm but I cant see that 0.2mm will make that much difference but im trying to get some spec's on them to find max coil bind hieghts and seat pressures etc.

Yeah I also had the same problem with my plazmaman plenum, as im running a MAP sensor I just put a little filter on it. Sorry to hi-jack thread but.... Craved how much of a gain did you get with your plenum?

Hmm yeah well, they are the springs I have in the car atm and they are shit sorry to say, I dont mean to bag this company out but I pulled an in & ex spring out and both only just had 50psi seat pressure and neither got anywhere near 200psi even at full compression and id bet if we had heated em up it would have dropped even further so they are just way too soft so... i think i will steer clear of them thanks.

Hey Fellas, Im thinking of changing my RB25DET to solid type lifters, but I wanted to know if I have to change my cams also? as I bought a set of HKS cams before I thought of doing this. Luke

This might be a stupid question but was the previous 212kw made on the same dyno as the 222kw run? Different dynos different numbers Im in tassie also and have a 3037proS and I made 270kw at 1bar with similar mods so with the smaller 2835proS 220-230kw at 15psi would sound about right, I would think, with the shitty fuel you get down here. I looked at shipping a higher octane fuel down in 205 drums but to make it cost affective youd have to buy 2-4 drums of the stuff, have you got 2 grad to spend on fuel? but there is a place down the coast you can get even higher octane fuel from for not much more if you wanna get pretty serious, so.... If I were you id be waiting for another 6-12 months untill we get 98ron at the pump.

Cheers man, the problem im having though is compressing the spring so im able to crack the collets off. As the spring compressor I have needs to go down the side of the spring which there is no possible way with the RB heads, I need some sort of tool to press the spring down I may have to make or modify a different tool to do it, so I just thought someone else may have done the same thing and be able to point me in the right direction of the easiest way to do it Hmm maybe but it would always worry me, so im gonna look about a bit more before I go back to them

Yeah I looked at thoughs but they say use only up to 8.8mm lift and my cams are 9.0mm so I didnt think I should get em.

G'day Fella's. I’m installing some new HKS cams and want to replace the valve springs, so I was wondering if anyone could tell me what the installed height of the valve spring (in&ex) on an RB25 is? I can only find the specs for the RB26 in my R33 service manual and I thought that they'd be different seeing they are solid lifters and all. Does anyone have any recommendations on what springs to use and where to get em from? Also I don’t want to pull the head off to do this job, has anyone bought or made a good tool for this job before? as the only tools I have to do it won’t fit or need the head off to do it. Any thoughts would be appreciated.

Will swap for braided brake lines with cash adjustment if needed. Make me an offer!

come on this is a good price

any chance of getting a price with postage to tassie?

Ill take it if you can post it to tassie for a decent price

G'day peoples Item: AdjustableTomei intake gear for RB26/20 Location: Tassie Item Condition: Brand new! Reason for Selling: No longer needed Price and Payment Conditions: $220 including postage to anywhere in aus Contact Details: PM me or ph 0407944561 (leave a message and ill get back to you) Will post pics if requested. Cheers

yeah there is a fair bit of adjusyment in it but when I took it off it was already hard one way and im pretty sure I have to go a bit further that way I did a seach and could fine the answer I was after <_<

So if a buy an aftermaket RB20 cam of the same spec it wil work no worries in my head? Cool! But now after taking the vvt off I noticed that there is some adjustment in the back of the gear itself, maybe not be enough but if a take it to an engineering workshop I should be able to get some more adjustment out of it. That way a cam keep the vvt, that would work right?

So why do they make an intake gear for an rb25 then? Or do you have to buy a different cam to use it?

thats what it needs buy the look of it. So did you get the collor to fit it to your rb25?

Hi, After rebuilding my engine and putting new cams in it etc... ive put adj cam gears on the exhaust and intake. Exhaust was fine, fit fine and dandy but intake not going on so easy.. why? It doesnt sit centre and its just a sloppy fit the single bolt that holds it in place is was too long..... nothing seems to fit or even look like fitting. What have I done wrong? Or have I got the wrong cam for the gear? as in, do I have to buy a cam that not used with the vvt? Cheers.

If you could Ken that would be great, it would make my tuner happy anyway, my email address is the earlier post What he wants to know is; What lift it should have at TDC Crank Deg at 50thou lift Open - Closing timing because at the moment on both in/exh cams there is only 25thou lift at TDC an on the inlet side there is only 50thou lift 7.5deg ATDC, which he said is very out and should be more like 60-70thou lift at TDC(I think ) He said he just wants some were to start from. The car make really good power till about 3500rpm and just not much after that. This is all a bit over my head so sorry if i seem a bit vague, im still tryin to learn bout all this SK - My turner said they seem to be too close and one needs to be advanced and the other retarded so ur 2deg advance on inlet and 4deg retard on exhaust sounds about right. Cheers guys

Ive got an adj exh gear which is set to 0 and yep it was setup with it at TDC and all markings on backplate, gears and belt all lined up perfect but turner seem to think that with aftermarket cams they still need to be dialed in as they can be out even with this all perfect.