futurewa

Guys, I'm looking for the cover that goes on top of the motor. Not sure what its' called but it is embossed with Nissan Twin Cam 24 Valve. PM me if you have one you'd like to part with.

Guys, I've lost power in my power windows & all gauges are either pointing straight up or lying down. Even the tacho is dead. I've looked at the fuses & they seem ok. Any ideas? Thanks Andrew

Per my research - Get an R34 Cam Angle Sensor, then some small mods to your wiring & you're done.

Hey GW What is an ATI Balancer? Excuse my ignorance........

Guys, My motor died & a brand new NUR R34 motor appears to be an option. Question 1 - How does one modify Cam Angle Sensor to accept my R32 wiring? Question 2 - Does the NUR motor have forged N1 internals or just the N1 block?

Whole motor OR Bottom end plus pistons

When the car arrives, on the truck you have to get a permit to move it. Book in a the pits or take it to pits that don't take bookings (careful that you don't show up to late in the day or they'll turn you away i.e. before 3.00pm!) http://www.dpi.wa.gov.au/licensing/yourvehicle/1440.asp Here is a link to get details on securing your permit.

Finally had a chance to scan my dyno runs - 11LBS AFR Taken at each exhaust (Twin System) (Possibly injectors need cleaning, as the run was terminated due to the knock count going up to 50) 15Lbs Boost 336HP - No knock issue 20Lbs AFR (Not sure which exhaust?) - Run cut...too much knock, up to 50 11Lbs Boost 300HP 12Lbs Boost 308HP 14Lbs Boost 325HP By my calculations, the 20Lbs run reached 169km/hr in 4th, generating 380HP. The run shown earlier in the post but in 2005, looked like it would have had 10-20hp more at the same speed in the same gear. Possibly the dyno? Possibly my calc?

Knock count on the road, viewed on the Apexi FC Hand controller, 3rd gear, full load all through the rev range - 12

Found the original dyno result for the car dating back to late 2005 - click to read, scroll down page Scale on my dyno - 1AFR= 2 big blocks, or 10 small blocks. Scale on original dyno below - 1AFR = .4 of a big block therefore zoom/magnification is 5 times on my graph compared with the graph below. Perhaps that is the reason that Mafia commented that the AFR was all over the show. His AFR probably looks the same at a higher level of magnification.

Tenagah Motorsport in Wangara, WA

Ok, thanks guys. The same workshop is running a Perth Dyno day in a couple of weeks. Is it worth putting the car in just to get the Dyno print out? If so, I can then see a complete graph perhaps at higher boost & revs. Considering the car has had the equivalent on the road, is it worth the risk? Ben is going to send me the original graphs so I'll stick em up when I get them. I'll also call Jim at CRD.

Name is on the Dyno sheet

Paid $36k for the car. Just took the car out to warm her up with a few back to back acceleration runs and I saw75degrees on the Apexi FC Hand Controller, centre guage thermo sat 2 mil under the first line. Most I've seen on a really hot day with a little warmth in the engine is 78degrees. She takes ages to get warm and my 15 drive to work is not enough to get full temp. I've run high revs in a top gear on 16 bounds of boost on a warm day, and she is still running mint, so I guess the engine is still ok. Hmmmm. I'll call Jim on Monday.

The car, once owned by WilliamsF1 (Ben), details here Well, after enjoying the vehicle for two months on WA roads I've just had the car serviced. I asked for a dyno power run only to be informed that the car was running so lean and with so much advance in the timing that a proper power run would be dangerous. The car is now booked in for a day of tuning! This scared the shit out of me considering that the car has been driven reasonably hard since I bought it. Ben (WilliamsF1) assures me that the car was tuned on RON98 (same fuel I'm using) by Jim at CRD and that it should not need retuning. Below, is the Dyno run that supposedly shows shockingly lean fuel. As I'm not trained in tuning cars, your comments are appreciated. The car seems to run pretty well, so I'm loath to have it retuned unless really necessary.