futurewa

Guys, I'm looking for the cover that goes on top of the motor. Not sure what its' called but it is embossed with Nissan Twin Cam 24 Valve. PM me if you have one you'd like to part with.

Guys, I've lost power in my power windows & all gauges are either pointing straight up or lying down. Even the tacho is dead. I've looked at the fuses & they seem ok. Any ideas? Thanks Andrew

Per my research - Get an R34 Cam Angle Sensor, then some small mods to your wiring & you're done.

Hey GW What is an ATI Balancer? Excuse my ignorance........

Guys, My motor died & a brand new NUR R34 motor appears to be an option. Question 1 - How does one modify Cam Angle Sensor to accept my R32 wiring? Question 2 - Does the NUR motor have forged N1 internals or just the N1 block?

Whole motor OR Bottom end plus pistons

When the car arrives, on the truck you have to get a permit to move it. Book in a the pits or take it to pits that don't take bookings (careful that you don't show up to late in the day or they'll turn you away i.e. before 3.00pm!) http://www.dpi.wa.gov.au/licensing/yourvehicle/1440.asp Here is a link to get details on securing your permit.

Finally had a chance to scan my dyno runs - 11LBS AFR Taken at each exhaust (Twin System) (Possibly injectors need cleaning, as the run was terminated due to the knock count going up to 50) 15Lbs Boost 336HP - No knock issue 20Lbs AFR (Not sure which exhaust?) - Run cut...too much knock, up to 50 11Lbs Boost 300HP 12Lbs Boost 308HP 14Lbs Boost 325HP By my calculations, the 20Lbs run reached 169km/hr in 4th, generating 380HP. The run shown earlier in the post but in 2005, looked like it would have had 10-20hp more at the same speed in the same gear. Possibly the dyno? Possibly my calc?

Knock count on the road, viewed on the Apexi FC Hand controller, 3rd gear, full load all through the rev range - 12

Found the original dyno result for the car dating back to late 2005 - click to read, scroll down page Scale on my dyno - 1AFR= 2 big blocks, or 10 small blocks. Scale on original dyno below - 1AFR = .4 of a big block therefore zoom/magnification is 5 times on my graph compared with the graph below. Perhaps that is the reason that Mafia commented that the AFR was all over the show. His AFR probably looks the same at a higher level of magnification.

Tenagah Motorsport in Wangara, WA

Ok, thanks guys. The same workshop is running a Perth Dyno day in a couple of weeks. Is it worth putting the car in just to get the Dyno print out? If so, I can then see a complete graph perhaps at higher boost & revs. Considering the car has had the equivalent on the road, is it worth the risk? Ben is going to send me the original graphs so I'll stick em up when I get them. I'll also call Jim at CRD.

Name is on the Dyno sheet

Paid $36k for the car. Just took the car out to warm her up with a few back to back acceleration runs and I saw75degrees on the Apexi FC Hand Controller, centre guage thermo sat 2 mil under the first line. Most I've seen on a really hot day with a little warmth in the engine is 78degrees. She takes ages to get warm and my 15 drive to work is not enough to get full temp. I've run high revs in a top gear on 16 bounds of boost on a warm day, and she is still running mint, so I guess the engine is still ok. Hmmmm. I'll call Jim on Monday.

The car, once owned by WilliamsF1 (Ben), details here Well, after enjoying the vehicle for two months on WA roads I've just had the car serviced. I asked for a dyno power run only to be informed that the car was running so lean and with so much advance in the timing that a proper power run would be dangerous. The car is now booked in for a day of tuning! This scared the shit out of me considering that the car has been driven reasonably hard since I bought it. Ben (WilliamsF1) assures me that the car was tuned on RON98 (same fuel I'm using) by Jim at CRD and that it should not need retuning. Below, is the Dyno run that supposedly shows shockingly lean fuel. As I'm not trained in tuning cars, your comments are appreciated. The car seems to run pretty well, so I'm loath to have it retuned unless really necessary.

Nice work!

Brad, count me in. Also, please PM me payment details.

I'd say at least 6 months before the beauracratic morons post you the 'state revenue tax collection notice'. So you may as well enjoy driving for the next 6 months & not worry too much. My guess is that you got pinged at less than 40 k's over the limit so probably 4 points & $250. About demerits - http://www.dpi.wa.gov.au/licensing/yourlicence/14411.asp Traffic Infringements page - http://www.police.wa.gov.au/TRAFFIC/Infrin...90/Default.aspx Demerits - http://edusafe.edu.au/files/drivingadvice.pdf I love how all the do gooders on here toe the official line re. 'speed kills'. Funny how civilised countries like Germany have unlimited speed zones and a fraction of the road kill per head of population as we do. More Multinova = more state revenue$$....simple. Most of the 'road kill' fell asleep at the wheel and/or forgot to buckle up. Look at the little crosses on straight roads in front of big trees next time you take a drive in the country.

Since I got my GTR R32 a few months ago, I've been trailed twice by the cops. On both occasions they broke off major routes to tail me for no apparent reason. I seriously doubt that all the corpses from last years road toll were extracted from Imports or modified cars, in fact I'd hazard a guess that most of the 'road kill' were tired drivers, drunk drivers, country drivers, older drivers, unbelted drivers and drivers in shitboxes. So I assume that the coppers that do the harrassment either believe the media propaganda that imports are 'bad news' or are simply after cheap thrills.

Beautiful

Guys, my clutch has an awful amount of travel before it engages. Is this easily corrected and if so, what is required? Clutch is a Hal Berry and seems rock solid with absolutely no slip once engaged.

Here is the wheel allignment printout. The car still tends to pull slightly to the left. Guy at the wheel shop reckons there is no camber adjustment on the R32. I've moved the front tyres to the rear as they are probably ok for a few thousand k's or so.

Check that your jack/winder/spare are not loose.

Ok Guys, the topic title probably says it all. Under certain lighting conditions my dash reflects quite strongly in the windscreen and reduces visibility/ is annoying. Is this an inherent issue with R32's(Dash shape & windscreen angle)? Any good fixes without resorting to a 80's style dash carpet?

Well I guess I should have got a wheel alignment sooner. I brought a GTR R32 over to WA from Adelaide with pretty new SO3's. The suspension was removed and a standard suspension was put in to get the car over the pits and then I put the original suspension back in. Once the original suspension went back on I noticed that the car was pulling to the right and planned to take the car for an alignment. Well, with work pressures 300k's have gone by & f**k me, the front tyres are worn on a sloping angle almost to the knockers! The rubber looks like its' almost peeling off on the sloping angle. What a lesson:( What should I consider when looking for a wheel place to do an alignment?