Klymax

Sorry I should have asked in the previous reply, Since the PFC runs the car does anyone have any circuit board knowledge on these that can suggest why pin 48 would not have no output whilst some pins output is higher then they should be? Cheers

Hi guys, the ER34 was a Auto from factory but was converted to manual before I purchased it. This weekend I took a drive to visit a mate 300k away and tested in his ER34 manual from factory and have the same result. Im now suspicious of the ECU itself which is unfortunate since I purchased it from a SAU member am searching alot of posts to find a repairer but thanks for the feedback guys Cheers

Further investigation found the loom is ok auto/manual all the same. What I have found though, when I install a powerFC. Pin 48 has a 0.01v reading (Power supply for throttle position sensor, refrigerant pressure sensor, and turbo pressure sensor) causing: pin 23 to be 0.01v pin 51 is 4.7v pin 53 is 0.01 but if i install my oroginal ECU all voltages on all pins are correct. e.g. Pin 48 = 5.2v Pin 23 = 0.45v (no throttle) Pin 51 = 3.4v Pin 53 = 4.7v Anyone know why the PFC wont output the correct values? Cheers

Hi guys, Wondering if yous can clear something for me, does anyone know of/if any physical differences from a ER34 auto ecu loom compared to a manual loom? I have a ECU problem that no one can pinpoint. cheers

Hi Akis, I know the thread is a little old but hopefully you may know an answer, I know of some series 1 98 skylines that have had a manual conversion using the auto loom are having problems with the plug and play PowerFC. infact its not as plug and play as we thought, problems with the TCS, Engine light and Aircon compressor. Any idea's why we'd be having such issues? Cheers

Hey Guys, Having some trouble with my powerFC. My car to clarify is a ER34 (R34GTT) that has had a conversion to manual. the powerFC throws up a backlight on the THR sensor with a voltage of 0.00. The car runs perfectly after an init clear. however I have some problems. MIL light is always on, TCS light is on and cannot be toggled with the TCS switch on the dash. the Aircon turns on but the compressor does not and last but not least HICAS light is also on. any ideas if my series 1 R34 has the same problem as the Stags? Cheers.

Sorry for the late reply mate. yeah the factory Xenon's were replaced with H1 bulbs. Can you pm me which kit and cost and ill grab your details for payment. Cheers

The wing still around mate? cheers

Exactly what I was going to write +1 here Cheers

Hey guys, I didn't want to start a new thread and hopefully this one was just lost and not an unknown resolution. Something else I've found is that a NEO AFC throttle sensor reads fine 0-100% and both the PFC and Impul ECU drive fine. just have these problems with the PFC. cheers

Stock is 5psi until 4500rpm then it bumps to 7psi. Do your ins an outs first. Intake and Exhaust. Even without a boost controller the stock level will rise with these mods. but you can keep a peice of mind and install a boost controller so you know exactly where your boost is at. you can boost it safely to 10psi on the stock ECU (some will say higher but to be sure ill say 10). or get a aftermarket ECU and get it tuned for 12psi max, again others may say 14 but some people drive hard and dont let the car cool before switching off etc. The stock side mount will be sufficient at this stage (dyno sheets show from 190-210rwkw). but the cooler air will compliment the mods thus far. Hope this helps

Anyone have a PFC in a manual converted vehicle? That had similar problems upon installation?

Hi URAS yes mate the car drives perfectly no idle hunts, smooth acceleration (still the standard PFC map) even when you poke it a bit knock levels under 30, cold starts jsut as easy as warm. Mods are simple just a pod filter and 3" turbo back exhaust, only boosted to 10psi. The only things that I know of that DONT work is the TCS cannot be toggled on or off. its simply off. and the a/c compressor. the a/c console functions perfectly and is even rekognised as being turned on and off in the sw/sensor check on the PFC. cheers

Hi Paul Thanks for the reply. Even my tuner is stumped by the HICAS, TCS and aircon. I presume the Tps (THR black background int he pfc) diverts or relies on a signal or output from the shift control unit? I have the service manual but when I read the wiring diagram I look like <-- this. So i really cant find if this control unit between the fusebox and the door edge is actually between the normal signals coming to and going out of the ECU If anyones interested I can upload the wiring diagram to check it out. Cheers

Hi guys. Seen some pretty nice manual conversion write ups but I fail to find appropriate information when it comes to plugging in a powerFC. My ER34 as I've just found out after purchasing a powerfc in fact was an automatic conversion, causing problems with HICAS, aircon MIL etc. Does anyone know how to convert it 100% for the powerfc to plug in as normal into a manual R34 or the changes required? Cheers

Hi guys. If you have time can you please check an pm me ER34018661 Cheers

Have a copy of it mate, but thank you for the offer. I just fail to see a connection between all the modules and why so many are failing at once. Cheers

Anyone at all encountered this on a R34GTT or have ideas?

Hi mate welcome to the skyline world The easiest way I can explain the difference is to imagine your exhaust system in section. starting at the Turbo, you have a Dump pipe bolted onto it which travels down to the Front pipe, connecting then to the Cat, from here is the muffler section. e.g. "Turbo->dump->front->cat->catback" There is a slight variation though also. you can have a Front/dump pipe which as the name suggest it essentially is both joined together and cannot be split apart. e.g. So this time making it "turbo->front/dump->cat->catback" hope this helps

Anyone have any ideas? Could so many pins be un powered due to a relay or similar failing?

Hey mat, sorry I should have specified. The car is a R34GTT (ER34) manual with the original neo rb25det. Unfortunately I never had a stock ECU, just an Impul replacement. The impul unit when installed runs fine and no error lights on the dash. a/c TCS can be turned on and off as normal. then switch the loom back to the PFC with the problems as above Cheers

Hi guys, Installed a powerfc and have some problems like some S1 stag's are having, though the pfc should be plug an play (to a degree) with my R34 GTT. Done some checks and found the following - Voltage for the throttle motor sensor (pin51) is approx 4.62v. - Voltage on pin 23 when car is on ignition 0.01 to 0.02 fluctuating, - Voltage on pin 23 when car is idling is 0.00 - Voltage on pin 37 is 0.00 at ignition and idle - Voltage on pin 53 is 0.00 at ignition and idle - Voltage on pin 79 is 0.00 at ignition and idle I've been told they should be as the following Pin 23 should be 0.5v approx idling Pin 37 should be 0.5v approx Pin 53 should be 4.7v Pin 79 should be 2v approx Pin 51 should be 3.4v symptoms are the following - A/C compressor wont turn on, TCS, SLIP and MIL lights on. powerFC sw sensor check has the THR black background Im quite lost as to where to look and why so many pins are having no output. Any idea's where to check?

Update. Installed my old Impul ECU and NeoAFC. Aircon and throttle working perfectly. Swapped back to the PFC, with the same results

Hi duncan thanks for the advice. Had a read through a few posts on the stags and theres alot of useful information there. Though I guess theres no real way to diagnose it until i have a known good TPS i can test out.. Any ideas why the A/c turns on but the compressor doesnt? also a/c turns on an off with the console switch in the sensor check on the PFC. Cheers

Hi mate, Its a ER34, the only sensor that "failing" (backlit) is THR (throttle) value is 0.00. Bosot control kit is disabled and its the standard MAP, just completed the idle process. Cheers