Klymax
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Posts posted by Klymax
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P.S. Rav i apologise for my sarcastic post
my imagination just got the better of me I would assume they would be very comparable as the output of the motor will be the same just depends how well the driveline holds up running 4 or 2 wheels. I wouldnt imagine too much difference -
I don't know anything about the GTR driveline but I can imagine the front wheels smoking the hell out of the tune shop lol overheard someone saying you can pull a relay out or something for rear wheel drive only but I dunno about how truthful that is, seems a little silly to me but as above I've no idea if the front an rears can seperate 100% to stop it launching out the front door
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Another Microtech hater, sure they're not the don of all ECU's but for what he wants and the price it's better than an e-manage, or are you one of those tuners that will only tune JDM ECU's.
I've seen tunes on microtech tunes on 9 second cars running the relatively basic lt-10 on engines that will run this time consistently.
Or are you just saying that Microtechs will be shit at tuning RB based engines? Again, seen scores of GTS-T's and GTR's running basic bolt on's using a lt10 being tuned on a mainline dyno to perfection.
It's not like he is going to need a M880 to run what he plans on having.
A hater he may be sounding like but from how I read URAS' post I see him acknowledging this ECU will make high (peak) power but in turn suggesting the drivability of the capable tunes to be disappointing when comparing them to even the basic e-manage ECU.
As you say 9sec cars run on these ECU's but how comfortable/economical would these cars be tuned for? I would suppose they are tuned for maximum output over driver "feel." The appliction in question as yourself stated you are aware of, suggests is not for making people say "WOW nice dyno graph" but instead acheiving a healthy comfortable tune.
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Cheers mate, that was exactly the information I've been looking for
plenty of info on turbo's, their performance etc but I could never grasp the lines what fits what wont etc.thanks again
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Hi guys,
Sorry to post whats probably a simple question that I cant find in general searching. Though is there a thread or do you's know of many if any direct bolt in turbo's for a ER34, basically a replacement of stock that will simple bolt in without changing/adding lines and the dump pipe etc. The turbo doesn't have to be a huge power increase if any. Basically I'm looking for an option other then finding a stock one to high flow or pulling mine off to send it down south for X amount of time to be flowed and not having the thought in the back of my mind of fatally harming it.
any thoughts are appreciated.
Cheers
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Please pm me if you upgrading your ECU and wish to sell your powerFC suitable for a ER34.
Cheers
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Hey guys,
Whats the square box inside the light assembly? in this pic you can see the cut wiring that run down to a box. is this the ballast or..
does the ballast screw onto here?
Cheers
-Jayme
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Hi Guys,
After much searching myself regarding the "factory boost gauge failing" topic I noticed there's no pictures for those of us who aren't as familiar with every little modules on our cars as some others are.
If you have a Factory boost gauge and it either doesn't work at all or only works at certain times. ( I found myself mine only worked during cold times of the day)
I've found a simple check to determine wether you need to replace your boost sender unit or not.
as stated in many posts I've read there is a boost sensor basically in the middle of your engine bay along the firewall edge above your motor. I feel many are checking this and its lines instead of the unit that controls the actual gauge.
now for the life of me i cannot find to quote the particular post I was hoping to by the gentleman who rectified his sons gauge problem from finding a dry solder join.
If you have access and are confident in using a soldering iron you may not need to read much further.
For those who dont and aren't let me explain a way to solve your mystery.
if you open the boost sender unit between your panel and brake master cylinder you will notice 3 larger solder joints. If you unscrew the 3 screw's holding the inner PCB board.
Raise gently the opposite side of the board as the connector joins are quite hard to lift through the plastic housing. you may de solder these 3 large joints and re solder them properly.
If you aren't confident in soldering you may very gently left the board evenly as so the 3 connection pins pull through the board. they may bend in the direction you pulled them.
now align the 3 connection prongs and re seat the board being careful not to get any dirt inside the. once these are back through they should be sticking out the top by 2mm or so. you can give them a slight bend onto the solder to provide enough connection to test with.
restart your car and check the gauge is working. If it is not after resoldering you may require a new unit. if you chose the non solder path you could be in the same boat however make sure the solder joins are still quite nice and the tips are definatly making contact to them.
I apologise for the quite long write up for such a small task and do stress the non solder option is not a fix, instead it is a mend to test your sender unit is functioning or requires replacement.
the picture quality isnt too great but should be enough to see whilst reading the tut.
shown here inside the red circles are the 3 joints in question.
Hope this helps
-Jayme
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A couple RBT's all with a smart comment about my plates though I expect that. Most of the officers up here just give a chuckle and ask "how are the plates working out for ya"
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I actually like the veilside looking one hehe though My car came with this tiny lip that I want gone looking for another to compliment the sleek though "pointy" kit. heres a pic of my car's rear.
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Every 12 months the dyno results get higher and higher, first it was 200rwkw in '06, then 220 in '07, now 240 '08 on a stock turbo?
Please... 240rwkw on a stock turbo is a load of rubbish. Get out there and run a 112mph (minimum) pass and i'll believe 240rwkw.
IMPUL ECU doesnt mean a lot, just a chip etc really, with an unknown map it almost makes it more of an issue than the stock ECU.
Also - didnt the Tuner tell you how much boost you were running?
Honestly i think the place your choose for the work is being fairly lazy with all of it. If possible i'd head somewhere else... although being Darwin your probably restricted in that matter.
Also 1bar on a stock turbo, is silly.
Yeah mate. There was a place here, Though he has closed down at teh beginning of the month. I hear theres 2 others dyno's around though I've not heard many good things about them when it comes to imports so I'm worried as theres not many 34's here yet also so knowledge of them will be a little more limited also. My previous tune was for 10psi (hot here so keep it safe on the I guess stock turbo).
I suppose the best thing to do is to get the front/dump, fmic, powerfc and get a tune done to see where its at then?
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Im looking into this also
well the g/f has even offered for my upcoming birthday **cheer** though im uneasy about the space in my bar. Thermo, horns to be removed? I have the Nissan motorsport front (many call it a nismo) but love the idea of using my stock piping. Any feedback I would love to hear. -
Alrighty, Decim8,
Checked my plugs out. found out they are already gapped at 0.8 and are ngk irid's in there. the coilpacks also look rather new and have a rubbery wrap around them ( thought i'd check as i've read about the r33's having cracks in them) so that area looks all good. I guess ill wait for the front/dump and hi-flow cat to see what happens then. I put on a pod but dont know of how i can get some cai happening for now but ill tend to that later i suppose.
Also i hear the stock boost gauges arent accurate. if i click my manual boost controller down for say 5 clicks. and tromp it. i feel a definate loss of power, but my gauge still hits near top 1 bar. and if i up the boost back by 5 clicks. same thing. so i cant really tell if im getting a boost drop or something.
cheers
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It goes in shortly for a 80 thou service in teh next week, so ill try a get a front/dump, cat and plugs asap an have them on the same time. Maybe ill see some improvement on this drop.
Cheers guys
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Hey guys, thanks for teh feedback.
paulr33 - Yeah mate, jsut a general "see where its at" tune. it was running extremely rich when i bought it and heres some pics of the ECU
R31Nismoid - From what i see with power increase, i guess the tuner was upping the boost until it "cracked" that point? its apparantly at 10psi so it shouldnt be too high for the ecu should it?
666DAN - What VCT mate? sorry im still not very knowledgeable on alot of FI things.
I just assumed (heeh assumption is the mother of all....) that with only 10psi, decent flow in an out of the motor and a AFC i would have a not high power but a nice steady delivery.
Where should i go from here? get rid of the impul and neo and replace with a powerfc, add a fmic and dump/front, poosibly a pod with CAI before returning for a retune?
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Hey guys.
I took my 34gtt in for a tune to sort out the richness as its a daily driver. Sorry for the quality of these pics but i took a few to make reading easier. The power is low compared to (probably all hehe) but thats not what its about. I'll get to the point. as you can see theres a red line (run 1 from when the car landed at my door) a green line from the 7th run of my tuner playing. and a purpley line for teh 8th run. im wondering why there was a huge spike in it at around 120klm/h I actually havent seen another dyno look like this and Im not even sure what conclusions can be made from viewing the graph.
theres a manual boost contoller @ 10psi
3" blitz catback
Neo AFC
Impul ECU
panel filter
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Hey 8110,
I realise this thread is a little old though maybe you havent yet made any decisions. Heres attached a pic of my ECU that came in my car. I also have a neo afc and running 9psi as we have some detonation issues im told. (new to this) the only other mod is a blitz 3" catback. now although the dyno's arent accurate and a normal day up here is relatively hot (32+ degrees C) only acheived 162.5kW im looking into a powerFC as my tuner tells me this ecu is in a foreign language an doesnt seem as though he can do anything with it to further modify. Now i'd rather know that my ecu isnt limiting my cars drivability in anyway before i go ahead with future mods.
Hope this helps
cheers
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Cheers guys, Once again appologise for teh silly question.
Regards
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Hey guys,
Sorry for my lack of knowledge, i took my 34gtt into have a manual boost controller installed an boosted to 10psi. Everything is running great though i noticed a hose thats been disconnected. Is it needed or should it be blocked? or is it simply a breather or type of.
2 pics so its easier to point out. It may not be relevent though from what i've founf the mods currently on the car is a impul ecu (or jsut a cover) pod filter, Apexi neo AFC and now what I've added.
Cheers
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Hey guys,
I've been doing some searching for a weird problem im having. My R34 begins to boost nicely an spool fast until 3000rpm when it suddenly dies off leaving slow acceleration until about 4500rpm where it agian picks up an continues until 6-7k. As it dies the air is heard as loud as normal so i initially thought it was simply a leak until i rev'd it hard past 4500rpm.
It does this in all gears (manual) 1st and 2nd seem to be not so bad as it will fly through the range with minor (although its felt)hesitation.
The car is totally stock besides a cat back blitz exhaust, 60,000k's
Any idea's thoughts?
Cheers.
my imagination just got the better of me 
I would assume they would be very comparable as the output of the motor will be the same just depends how well the driveline holds up running 4 or 2 wheels. I wouldnt imagine too much difference
plenty of info on turbo's, their performance etc but I could never grasp the lines what fits what wont etc.
Faq: Apexi Powerfc - Frequently Asked Questions
in Tutorials / DIY / FAQ
Posted
Hey guys,
Like ian_and1' s engine light being on from key on to key off. After mine has been installed i get TCS, SLIP and tne engine light solid on. and to boot the a/c doesnt turn on. Any ideas? I've reset the data and completed the 30min idle process checked nd double checked the Boost control kit. Any ideas?
Cheers