~R33AzzA~

Back on topic, My brother recently got a stagea and has decided to go with the cooling pro stealth kit as he is not very DIY lol. It all comes down to how much money you are prepared to spend and how fast you want it. If its not somthing you need straight away and your good with your hands have a go at it. If not you can buy the kit and have it in but the end of the week if necessary.

Hey AL, a bit off topic but can centerline re condition JIC coilovers?

"Honestly $200-$300 is not a steep price for the work involved and parts needed. To get it done properly, it's not going to be a $100 job" I did my whole lot including paint for $260 but i waited and got all the pars off the net and did it myself. DIY saves heaps of $$ and is a great way to learn mor about your car. I got my cooler for a STEAL at $90 Ebay Piping was $150 off sau Then paint and a few clamps and other parts needed $50 Best money iv ever spent on a car

Yeh Truck bits is a buisness, a mandrel bend means. When bent the pipes internal diamiter does not change like a convetional bend, mandrel alows air to flow without resriction. Truck bits is on south gipsland hwy in hampton park. your local exhaus place can supple these also.

just a couple of pics. A bit dirty, I will get some clean ones on when I have them.

The piping I used was pre made to run this way, as I used BLITZ piping. It would work running it behind though, a mate has it like this on this VL.

You can make your own piping, buy some exhuast bends (mandrel) and some tube, tack it together and get someone to finish welding it. It might be mild steel but its easy to do, and not to expensive. If you need tube I can supply some to you as I have a heap of 2.5 inch tube at work. Mandrel bends are avalible at truck bits for around $10 bucks a bend (don't quote me on price). Thoughts on mild steel piping? Painted on the outside of course.

My core is a HKS 600 x 300 x 70 and I used BLITZ piping and welded the angled return onto the side of the cooler myself at work, on their time. It all went together pretty easy. I have an M-SPORTS front bar and it covers the piping fine. The M-SPORTS bar is only a little lower than a stock bar. The stock one should cover the piping as long as you mount your cooler to the underside of the bumper re-enforcement.

Personely I would go with the FMIC. It is legal on your car and has a large serface area for cooling, with pretty good flow and little persure drop. I have a FMIC in the stealth style (made it myself) and I painted it black for the extra stealth look. But thats just me, SMIC is still a very good option.

Yer +1 for pics, are you sure its vertex. I could only find m-sports or uras for R33.

pm sent.

Hey mate, It will pay to get one of these from otomoto as apossed to someone else. The KKR ones are pretty well balanced and tested, and they come with a water cooled core (not just oil cooled). Others may be cheeper but they arent as good quality. http://otomoto.com.au/

I had this problem with my last 33 after instalinga gates timing belt. I took it to a reputable mechanic and they told me it was my ider bearing and tensioner bearing, they replaced them as well as my water pump. The noise was still there so I got over it and left it. It was pretty frustrating though..

I have heard that an egg smell can meen a coocked cat. Not sure if this is true iv just heard it before.

Hey mate give TOP STAGE a call or check out their web site. Thats where im getting my front and rear guards from, they are quality and so is the price. http://www.topstage.com/

Hey mate how much for the nismo knob?

Spotted Ray from RE customs in his R34 GT-T on princess hwy today, that car can move..

Hi Shane would I be able to pick it up tomorrow night after work? I still remember where you live from when I got the shift kit off you. Give me a call on 0411 797 868. AzzA

I am after a series one AFM as mine has shit itself. I am located in the se suburbs of vic but I will buy from interstate? Any help is appreciated. AzzA

Mate there's a bit more to it than that. I think it would be a cheaper option to replace the current motor with a det one. You should be able to get some money back if you trade yours in too.

Update I returned my timming to the standard position and the car went a little better. I then decided to change the AFM with my mates one. Once the new AFM was in, the car was perfect. The timming still has to be done properly though, so ill book the dyno time, to make sure its all sweet. Thanks for your ideas. AzzA

I did factor this but it was checked and elimanated. I put the new turbo on and the noise is gone. That problem is fixed. Onto the existing issue. An engineer at work thinks that it sounds like I might have valve overlap happening. This would explain why there is boost but no power, the air from the turbo is coming into the chamber and escaping out the exhaust at the same time.. Also i have noticed that there is alot of boost evident even at say 2000 rpm also supporting the overlap theory. Thoughts on this?

GTR-32U- Yeah I was thinking maybe the timming. It was very advanced when i bought the car 10 months ago, I saw dr drift about a seprate issue a few months ago when he noticed the advancment and retarded it. So its pretty likely. R31Nismoid- Once the turbo came off it was visably rooted as the impeller was touching on the housing when it was turned. I agree with staying out of boost I might keep the wast gate open to make sure it doesn't boost. (The roads round my area are pretty hilly, better to be safe.) Thanks for your inpute guys.

I will get it on the dyno as soon as i can. But for now i have to drive it and don't want to kill it. Doesn't anyone have any ideas?

Hey guys, For the past month my car has been driving different when on boost. If the car makes more than 6 lbs it actually feels it is loosing power.. I had a mate drive my car who has alot of expirience with big hp turbo cars, and he thought that the turbo might be rooted as there was evedent squeeling. So tonight we put a new rebuilt ballbearing turbo in running only 7 lbs and the car feels shit, almost like as it comes on boost it hits a wall and stays there as the revs rise. My mate said that it sounds like it is detanating on boost. He followed me up the road and said that it smealt pretty lean (smells like its burning ur nose, his words). What are your thoughts on this. Also i have an apexi pen turbo timer in the car which is wired into the o2 sensor, it is getting a reading of 15.5-13.5 on iddle and at full boost it droppes to 12.3 - 12.0, then once off the throttle it will head to 19.0-20.0. Are the turbo timers usually acurate with the o2 a/f? Is there a fuel problem?? Maybe fuel reg? Computer? A/F meter? Current mods are: turbo back exhaust, front mount, bosch 023 fuel pump, fully manulised auto. I am going to book some time on the R&E dyno hopfully next week. But any help at all is realy appreciated. Edit: I just found this, I think this is the same thing mine is doing. http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/R3...hl=running+lean AzzA