awurth

I ran 230Kw at the wheels out of my RB25 with hardly touching the fuel pressure. they where nearly full duty cycle though. Series 1 I don't beleive there is, series 2 I think they do have a boost cut.

Well it seems I'm doing allot of posting on my own thread but i'm still having drama's. I pulled the throttle bodies off again last night to check the gaps around the butterfly's. I took it to a mechanic today and asked him what he thought about the gaps (I had it touching top and bottom and gaps where more around the side). After a bit of fiddling he got the gap even around the whole butterfly, he then set them so you could just see around the whole thing. Does anyone know if you should be able to see any gaps or whether it should fully closed, when I cleaned them firstly I sprayed cleaner on the butterfly and if you didn't open it the cleaner wouldn't leak away. Fully closed makes sense to me considering you have separate idle control. I rang up Nissan and apparently each throttle body is a complete assembly and your looking at over $2000!!!!!!

so have you got a link, or can you tell us where it is from?

put your pick up on the earth of coil number one. middle one of the three wires going to it I think? I set the timing on my 33 gtr and you go over all three but with this mechanics 32 gtr he can only go over that one wire, set it to 20 degree's and your done.

bit more info, when you start the car it idle's around 1100rpm, drive it for a bit then let it idle and it will sit around 1400rpm, turn it off for five mins start it and then it sits on 1100rpm, drive it back to 1400rpm?????

Ok, I pulled the Bypass air control valve off and noticed how the spring looses it's tension, So a bit of fitting and turning and I had fixed that all up, but! The solenoid still doesn't operate. I noticed before I did all this work that if you disconected the supply to it the engine would struggle to idle. now it doesn't make a difference. but the solenoid operates with a 12v supply and the wiring gives a supply of 10.9v. I'm thinking that it could be throttle bodies. before I cleaned them they had stacks of carbon in them. when I had cleaned them they close properly but there are very, very small gaps around them when they are closed. i'm thinking that there is just enough air getting past to let it idle up. maybe time and a bit of carbon build up will fix it. I pumped heaps of spray into the engine bay trying to find a leak and i can't find jack.

Ok, it was the gasket between the head and that inlet manifold that sits between the throttle bodies and the head. a big leak right on No.3. Anyways I cleaned everything up throttle bodies where full of carbon. putting it all back on the car idled at around 1500rpm. I screwed the idle screw in and it dropped it to 1300rpm. I adjusted the screws on the throttle body but now it sits just over 1100rpm. I was looking at the throttle bodies when I had cleaned them and there are very, very small gaps around them when they are closed. using spray it can't find any leaks. I have reset the computer as well. any ideas????

This is the Vl RB25/30 conversion i was talking about a while ago, pics are from a camera phone so sorry about the clarity. car is fully finished now and is waiting for the tune, will do around 500k's with the wastegate fully opened and then it will come back in for the boost side of things to be sorted. the turbo was off a 12a rotary that featured in zoom a while ago.

if it sounds like nuts and bolts rattling in the engine bay it sounds like a bit of detination to me.

get it on a dyno with a fuel pressure gauge and run it up under load, you soon see the pressure drop away if the pump is failing. Not sure what the pressure should be but, when we turbo'd my mates FTO i think we set it at about 220lb can't remember the figure for sure though.

I'm going for a 3000lb 5 puck ceramic clutch in my GTR. A mate is running one and it seems to be up to the job so far in his GTR. it's a bit bitey but so was the one in my GTS-t so i'm use to it. cost me about $650, was going to install it myself but I'm kinda tight for time so I'll prob get it done at the mechanics along with getting the flywheel machined.

I recently did mine and got between 150-160 psi. but shoey is correct in saying that it is the percentage of difference that really matters. being a lower compression engine you will get a lower reading than what you might expect if you have come from the N/A world. I did notice though if your crank it more you get higher readings.

Ok beleive it might be the seals around the throttle shafts, anyone ever had to replace these? it seems anything to do with the exhaust or intake manifolds it would be easier to pull the motor out and do the work, DOH! any idea's as to taking the inlet manifold off? I mean with enough messing around I will get it off but anyone got little tricks I should know that will make the job easier?

Ok folks, beleive the problem has been found. took it to the mechanics today and he seems to have figured it out. he checked a few of the things I had and he noticed that the inlet manifold gaskets seem new. he pulled out a bit of carby cleaner spray and the inlet around no. 3 cylinder seems to have a small leak in it. spray a bit of the stuff around that area and the idle picks up, it's one of three things, the seals around the throttle shafts, the gasket onto the head or the gasket onto the plenum. using some co-contact cleaner i beleive it is the gasket onto the head, we will see! the boost spiking and dropping on the speed cut must have been enough to blow something out. who would have guessed!

on the Back of my GTR there is a "tuning sports RICAP" sticker. Anybody heard of this company? and what they do? When I was putting my alarm system in I noticed that the sticker had been removed off the ECU and that there was some altered wiring in the ECU wiring loom. Fact that the speed cut is still present makes me think it is nothing. I will have a look a exhaust cam gear later tonight. I just started it and noticed the fuel pump takes a while to pressurise the fuel line. then when you start it then car struggles to start and idles badly for a sec or two. Could this be a fuel pressure problem?? Mind you my car never did this before I posted this thread.

yeah drove the car around and got it to operating temp then did the test immediately afterwards and got those results. I bought brand new NGK plugs today, just v grooved standard plugs. With the apexi plugs when you started it it would cough, splutter, shake alot and struggle to hold idle, (like the timing was all out). put the new plugs in and it started fine doesn't shake but still sounded funny (sounds like it is lumpy). A mechanic here with a 32 GTR reckons that I might have an adjustable exhaust cam gear. my timing is set to 15 degrees advanced and the pickup is nearly fully advanced compared to his 32 where it is sitting close to the middle. pick up is on cylinder 1 and light set to 0 and I have it on the 4th white line (line=timing 1=0 2=5 3=10 4=15). There is no obvious detenation under load as you would expect if the timing was that far out. I wonder if something could have come out of wack n the cam gear, if there is one on it?

Ok, I bought a compression tester today and checked the compression. Going from the front cylinder to the back one here are the results. 1. 10.75 bar (150psi) 2. 11 bar (160psi) 3. 10.75 bar 4. 11 bar 5. 11 bar 6. 10.75 bar Any other thought folks? I assume a leak down test checks how the cylinder holds the pressure and how quickly the pressure drops, didn't do that test. should i do that? I assume if a valve is burnt it's going to have a vastly different result to the other cylinders

sorry as far as i know they have a boost cut for over boosting, I ran 14psi and no drama's, my car did suffer a broken land on piston 6, just when i bought it, because of a failing fuel pump, I found out after the rebuild that the fuel pressure dropped away under load. this was before I did any mods to it. a new 044 and she was a steady pressure again.

iridium's foul real easy, I used some injector cleaner and it started missing straight away. series 1 don't have a boost cut, i had one and could run 14 psi.

check the plug gaps. 0.8mm seems to work well. If it's a 33 series 2 i beleive they have a boost cut.

What a list!!!! You sir are either very in debt, or you sir are a very rich man!

Took a mate for a spin in the GTR yesterday and after a run down the local 1/4 (two white lines 400m apart) I did a u'y to go back home and wound it out to the speed cut, as soon as I hit it i backed off and continued home. as i dropped my mate off i noticed it was running like a pot was down. I thought "Hmmm not good" anyway no smoke coming out the back so not so bad, I gave it a bit (still being cautious) from an intersection and it seems to rev out clean. got home noticed the motor was shaking like a pot was down and thought "plugs" straight away, I checked the exhaust for an unburnt fuel smell and it didn't smell good and made my eye's water. Checked the the plugs and all good, Pulled the 12v feeds to the coils off 1 at a time and I noticed that pot 3 doesn't make a difference to the idle on or off. swapped plugs around and still pot three. So I got another plug in the coil and earthed it onto the motor and there is spark, about an inch long if you slwly pull it away. I pulled the injector electrical connection off and the idle does change so it must be all OK, so it has me a bit stumped. I re-set the computer, pull the positive off the battery and leave the internal light on 5 mins later the car still ran the same. a bit stumped, any ideas folks? could it be the speed cut out has messed something up? it stopped shaking after I had messed with it, but it still sounds different on idle.

95' R33 V-spec, silver, 17' enkies, 4' trust exhaust, trust intercooler, HKS piping, K&N filters, Profec B boost controller and tien gas coilover's. haven't dyno'd it yet so I won't qoute a figure. will let you know next weekend!

well it has all gone through. after nearly three months of trouble and more money than i expected the gtr is complied and ready to go. i'll get a road worthy and then it'll be off to the mechanics to get the mods put back on and she'll be all go. hopefully it'll get picked up friday and i'll go to rocky and get it on the weekend. then the fun begin's. If anyone is still keen on importing just keep in mind with the new system it'll take a while. The saying didn't really go like this, But good things come to those who are forced to wait.

unless they put a 5ltr, push rod, 2 valve per cylinder donk in the new skyline you'll never seen it run against the likes of v8 supercars, who cares anyway, already beat them at that game a few times, do you really need to embaress them again, they will just make a new formatt up again and rule the nissan out. thing i can't get my had around is they don't even run the V8's they sell there cars with!!!!!! Personally I'm not sold on the new shape, looks like a maxima!