GoldZilla

Note from Moderator: topics merged because it is for the same event...

Oh, I spotted a wine-red late-model Lotus Esprit (possibly a V8) somewhere between Castle Hill and Baulkham Hills last Friday - can't remember exactly where, unfortunately.

Oh, way back when, Richard (aka Beer Baron) swore by the ones made at CoverCraft, and he's a fussy dude, so that would say something.

Pffft, you and Reece will make us all look like noobs, so you're both banned!

I spotted a white R34 GT or GT-t heading towards Castle Hill on Windsor Road today while I was waiting at the car wash in Baulko.

Two seconds on Google, Owen: CarCareProducts.com.au and CoverCraft. (CoverCraft are pretty much 2mins from my house, so if you find something and order it, I can pick it up for you and save you the cost of shipping.)

Here you go, possibly all of the information you'll need in one thread! http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/In...ercooler+thread

Nope, Duncan, I don't think it does have a warning for the passenger seat. Rosie's Mazda3 actually has some sort of sensor in the passenger seat so if it detects that the seat is occupied and you start to drive off, it starts blazing a warning and lights start flashing, etc. Sometimes her handbag is enough to trigger it if there's enough weight in there.

Thanks all! I'll see what happens when I change the can over.

Does anyone know where the flasher "can" (or relay or whatever it is) can be found on a series 1 C34? I've checked both fuse boxes (under the bonnet, and under the dash), but nothing indicates anything for the blinkers except the fuse, which I've checked and replaced just in case. I've got all indicators working on both sides, but they're flashing way too fast, as if one of them has blown... Unfortunately, I've had to remove the LED front indicators for the time being - for some strange reason they were causing all sorts of electrical issues in my car. The stereo and Defi's used to cut out for a second if I turned the high beams on, the idle was all over the shop (and still is to some extent, but it's better than before), and I think I replaced a battery for no reason. Now that I've replaced the standard ones, most of the issues have gone, but I think it's killed the flasher can, so the first step is to replace that and see what happens next.

You guys are a worry...

Seriously, the tyres on your car (no matter what you drive) are something you should NEVER skimp on. Think of it, no matter how good your suspension or brakes are, or how much power your car puts out, it will never be able to be put down unless you have a decent set of tyres. If you are ever in an emergency situation where you have to either swerve, hit the brakes, or both, then the quality of your tyres could be the make-or-break of whether you have an accident or not...

I spotted a really nice R31 Passage on Sunday afternoon parked in St. Martin's Village shops at the McDonalds there. I parked next to it in my Stagea.

Please read the rules - this should have been posted in the "For Sale" section of the Classifieds.

Anyone else?

Hi and welcome! You HAVE to keep the same rolling diameters between the front and rear. If you run the same tyres on different sized rims, it will not work. The rolling diameters will be different because of the stretching of the rear tyres to fit over the 10" rims. You should try and find a set of wheels and tyres that are the same size and width front and rear, or you will have BIG and expensive problems with the transfer box after you drive it for a while.

They look incredible, Dale. They suit the M35 really well! I wish I'd held out and got mine repainted before putting them on my car, but I was just too excited about having them. Mine have marks as if a previous owner has tried to clean them and left whatever they'd used on for too long, so there are some streaks in the finish. I sold my old wheels almost straight away too, so I don't have a spare set to roll around on if I do want these ones done at a future date, unless I borrow a set.

LOL, I should have been more specific in saying that to remove the head you don't have to undo the caps. You will have to remove them later to get to the valves, as Ruby has said.

I'm guessing with the RB, but with most cars you don't have to remove any of the stuff in the head to get it off. Leave the cams in, no need to undo the "u-shaped things" holding them in. The allen key bolts *might* be the bolts holding the head in. Once again, it's different between different cars and engines - some use regular (but high tensile) bolts with standard head, some use allen keys. Drop the oil and replace it when you're done. You do not want to find out too late that there are ANY fragments of metal floating around your engine. Better to be safe than sorry.

Dude, snap up a Sigma EF530DG-Super from DigitalRev in HK. I had one of these and decided I'd like another, and saved myself close to $200 compared to the shop I bought my first one from. Shipping was quick too.

I went to start mine this arvo, and my approx. 6 week old battery is DEAD! I only used it on Thursday night, so it's not as if it's been left there for weeks at a time! Tomorrow or Tuesday I'll take it in for testing and possible replacement under warranty.

Neither were your comments, Tom. In fact, they were borderline racist.

What's with all the new people signing up and posting about the same event? Locked.