nuclear_skyline

with the controller off the boost will be around 5-7psi because there is no modulation of the pressure to the actuator, simply it will be standard. I have the same controller and it works really well... If you want fuel economy, keep the car off boost completely. That being said, you will get better economy on a lower level.

Dont tease the guy.... too much lol Dude, search! See how much your budget can stretch too and do both...

i have the Greddy Type M front mount kit on my 33. Nice cooler, fitted well without any major dramas and I didnt need to trim the fan. If I had the opportunity to use the standard piping on it, I would. Nice thing about the Greddy cooler, or any other conventional (non standard piping) cooler kit is that when I upgrade my plenum in the future, I can easily get a new pipe made and it will be nice and short, and good looking....

I dealt with Cosmopolitan Cars on Parramatta rd and they were excellent to me. Fantastic car in great nick. Haven't had any issues with the car at all, apart from things I've done... Plan on going back to them to get my next import...

Touche on the K&N filter. I run one and found it to be really good at filtering. I cleaned most of the oil off when I bought it, then re-applied a lesser amount as they are over oiled from factory. Flows really well, didnt notice any major gains with it off in the dyno room.

OoOoOoOoOo... Albert's making an appearance! YAYAY... Bring-da-babes yeh?

What the? who are you talking bout?

read through some of the 'i fixed my dodgey coil packs' threads for ideas. Some owners have covered their packs in a paint ( i believe its silicon) which has fixed the problem

bump

sounds good guys. Should be a nice cruise.

nice. so basically what your saying is that I should change the jumper 8 back to 12v and I wont have any hassles and it'll run better???

What injectors you runnings?>

Dude your fuel bill is way more expensive in the short run for you... Check all the mechanicals, then if still not getting any reasonable increases in economy get a computer. Apexi SAFC are cheap, Emanage are more expensive and heaps better, and PFC are great but really getting expensive.

Thanks, I think thats what I will do... Last question for this minute. I am currently running my jumper setting on 5v, not on 12v (its a s2 r33). Will this cause any problems??? I have been driving it around for approx 400km since installing and haven't had issues as yet...

I tried using the injector map to clean up the really light throttle and idle afr, but the factory ECU brought all the values back to lambda. I then unplugged the o2 sensor and it did what I told it, plugged the bugger back in, and then it took it back to where it thought it should be. Two things from that: 1. Is the computer really only useful when the factory goes into closed loop mode? 2. What revs / TPS value does the factory ECU go into closed loop mode? Cheers, Yet another ignorant EMU tuner

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i should have a steel one finished in a week or so. I have a trust FMIC, so i catn re-fit my standard cnorkel....

Three things kill fuel economy: 1. Crapped out O2 sensor. Been covered here heaps.... 2. Leaks in lines... Check and re-new all vaccum lines, and other perished lines in the engine bay. 3. Crappy tune. Check 1, if its ok, check 2, then check 3.... I get over 500kms a tank with full zorst, FMIC, 12psi and stock computer.... Well, should be better now I have the EMU installed

Have you checked your oil level??? If the problem is associated with acceleration, my first check point would be how high my oil is....

Hi guys.... I plugged in and turned on my EMU yesterday. So many questions.... Firstly, I have a D board, is this a major issue???? Trent, if it is, can we do a deal re your spare E board? Secondly, when I had it on the dyno (I got some free time from a place I used to work at), I couldnt make any changes stick.... I.e. whenever I changed the airflow adjustment map, the stock ECU brings the values back to lambda.... How do i get rid of this, as in turn on closed loop? I'll think of some more no doubt

nice... well updated list. 1. nuclear_skyline (thomas) 2. 5hu7o (larry) 3. shane666 4. anna34 (anna) Hopefully my tune on my car will be sorted out by then.... She's acting up atm

Make sure you tack the two panels together before, thsi helps stop warping. Then I usually will carefully weld (tack, tack, tack) one inch, leave an inch, weld the next, then go back.... DO NOT USE WATER OR A WET SPONGE TO COOL THE PANEL DOWN!!! Just let it naturally cool... Artificial cooling really makes a shit pie of panels...

Agreed. Every 5000km seems to be the general norm on this site, and its good practice. Oil is the life blood of engines... Way i figure it, its oils cheap, engines are expensive when they go BOOM!

lol

ask a friendly skyline brother to help you, save u a bunch of cash and teach you... Hint