JBird

I think he said because if has F1 type gearbox the car is no longer fun, and because of this he will stick to his stick shift RB26 powered GTR. That is completely irrational because he was asking which one is better. Technically and by the numbers the VR38 destroys the RB26. As for bang for your buck...I don't think you can beat a second hand R34 GTR...half the price and I'm sure you can get near equal amounts of fun.

Wow dude, hats off to you. That is sexy. Do the fronts rub on full lock? Is it 18x11 or round?? Those wheels suit it.

VR38, all alloy with magensium timing gears, titanium this and that, better oiling, bigger capacity etc. etc. I'm sure if you made the engine uncompliant with current emission laws it would have a fair bit left in it. You can't compare. The retail on a crate motor for one of those would be exorbitant. Also there is a guy in sydney, Mark, out at St Mary's that has a 202 turbo powered LJ that runs 10s. He's currently chasing 9's, that thing is a monster. I've seen the pics of his cracked/blown blocks and they would make you cringe. Lucky their around $100 for a replacement block lol

Thats hot as. Looks like they stole your strut brace dude =p

Try not to idle for so long, you will glaze the bores. You can drive off after say a minute and go easy as in no redlining until oil (not water) temps are up. Probably old fuel. If not that AFM.

What CCA is your battery rated at. It is most likely your battery if your car used to start "quickly" before. In a 34 it is highly doubtful your fuel pump is dying already. I also don't understand the third paragraph. If you are not running a standard fuel pump you will have to switch your car onto "on" and let the fuel pump switch on. Also 2 seconds is not slow.

Please ask your question in a clearer fashion. Are you talking about your parker light? Did your car start after the new battery? Did you turn off your immobiliser? Do you have NRMA?

This thread should be moved to "Cosmetic and Styling Mods"

Maybe you pressed a few buttons on the hand controller or somebody mucked around with it. This happened to a friend of mine. If it is knocking, you can retard the timing using the hand controller - back it off a few degrees start at reducing it by 3 degrees until knock doesn't go above 20. This can be done in the mean time until you see your tuner...they should be able to sort it out for free if its a problem with PFC. Also keep in mind, the RB knock sensor is pretty sensitive and may just be detecting other engine noise.

ITB's are awesome - they're main advantage over the normal set up is very snappy throttle response and the engine will like to rev much faster. IMO, not worth it if you have to go and get one custom made. Sure you could use a 'GTR' Intake manifold but its not designed for NA in mind...as in a true ITB set up would have individual linkages on each trumpet to open and close the throttle butterfly. Below is what a "proper" ITB set up should be like. They are usually more prevalent on Hondas ( e.g S2k, NSX). When you get bored of your power put a 1UZFE (cheaper to come by in Australia and more development is also smaller than VH45) with ITB's in....all alloy, lighter than a RB, sits further back in the engine bay...you almost can't go wrong. For a little more outlay stroking your RB + ITB + Tuning. I should add. Top Secret Japan would have some, I think they did a proper ITB set up on an RB26 for one of their show cars. Edit: I just looked at the intake of the RB26 again, it does appear to have single linkage ITB set up with a plenum-type cover - that will probably just bolt onto the RB25 with accelerator cable mods you could have it working. Though it would sound best without the plenum cover =D

Heasman's right? Where abouts in Sydney are you. It is not overly hard to install yourself if you have sockets, jacks, spring compressor (about $30 from supercheap or you can be ghetto and use vice grips or something). About the only thing you can't do yourself (or it is recommended a professional do it) is press in the bushes into the arms and wheel alighnment. Pressing in the bushes should not cost more than $200. There is a "home" mechanic on nissan silvia.com 0 ask around on there. Otherwise I know a good suspension place near the shire I can get the number of the place.

You got mounts for that CA radiator?

Crap. Didn't wanna start a shit fight. I think DSG has it's merits faster etc. etc.....maybe they should have another option...sequential stick shift just to go the middle ground =D New GTR is expensive as...180k? Seriously?? I always thought the Veyron wasn't geared for the 1/4? Hence the "slow" times. Their top speed/stability is impressive though (about as shocking as the price tag)

I really like your car. RE: the knock, 20ish is generally acceptable - was just asking if it was tuned proper. I tried talking my cousin into buying it but he won't look at anything without a 350chev in it. Good price for a rust free 240. 14's must be fun =D Good luck with the sale.

If you ever come to Sydney with it I'll take it =D

What's the rust like? Rear tail lights, boot floor, sills? Is there any knock in the tune? What suspension is in it. What size are those wheels. Are you using nissan 4 pots on the front? Cheers

Hey mate, What do you mean by complete brake system. I need the following: Rear hubs, Rear backing plates Handbrake cables Front and Rear calipers (what condition are they in?) Possibly Rotors (if in good condition). How much? Where are you located in Sydney? PM also sent. Cheers James

Thats huge. Whats transmission was used for the record (7:38?) run? They still going to have a conventional 6 Speed? So disappointed when the Evo X came out and "only" offers a 5 speed manual/Fancy Automatic flappy thing.