GTScotT

Now you can! They are making manifolds with flange plates which have the bore of a T3 and the footprint of a T4 with the bolt holes for both. Sounds OK. Flexible

You know what... I just called him and he is happy to do either wheel in the GT28 bore. Prices are very reasonable also. One item I liked a lot (and im not sure if this is his 68HTA equivilent or not) is his 10 blade full height extended tip wheels.. He can make it in either an 18 or 20g for me and it will surpass the flow of its original and work at lower pressure ratios. The extended tip wheels go into a normal 18 or 20g housing with no machining required.. So you could easily add one into a kando then get it balanced and go. Now this is something to take very seriously.. Roy do you have a spare 3 bolt TD05H housing you want to sell?

Id spoken to Mark back in my Evo days. So your saying he can get his competitors HTA wheels in stock or are you using a GTP HTA wheel of some sort? (rather than an FP HTA)

LOL didnt I already chat about that with you over MSN? I dunno if thats possible... but I would definitely be willing to give it a go if you can help me facilitate the sourcing of the "GT68HTA" wheel.. I emailed FP but they never replied I asked them can they supply me with a 68HTA with the bore design of a GT28 shaft.. Then id send it to Stao for some love and housing profiling

Are you able to divulge how to go about ordering the said 73HTA compressor? (I would actually prefer a 68HTA/td05h I think) If feesible I would wanna get one onto my SR. The ebay 'steampipe manifolds' we have been discussing make the process look very feasible for me (especially considering I can sell my genuine Garrett unit).

Cool, and when your done you can give me a money tree seed too Ive been thinking about putting kando's on a veyron

lol sorry mate, didnt mean to sound harsh haha truth is BW have been putting turbos and gearboxes amongst other things in OEM cars for more years than most of us have existed. they know what they are doing, and in time they will correct all their bugs in the EFR process and these will come into their own

that manifold is a beaty Dave, Id love to get a hold of one like that! eat_me, borg warner is a very well known auto manufacturer... while these new turbos have had a rough start it will far from tarnish the reputation of the company as a whole.

I did say to complement a T67, id run oem for a 20G or smaller. rule of thumb: stock manifold is good for up to 300kw~.

LOL you mean you made the whole manifold into a screamer pipe or you added a screamer on? The first one would be funnier lol!!

I guess the idea is for ease of fitment and to uncap the stock manifold. For me I would happily whack a kando on a china SS manifold if I knew it was not going to crack.. these kind of fill the void. By no means do I suggest them as a 6b replacement but hey im sure they work about as good as a china SS without the cracktastic outcomes.

Keeping true with our bang for buck theme here a very interesting comment was made in the following thread: Ebay steam pipe maniofold thread Noel is a high end user and clearly approves of the item, the price is also great. This could be a good combo with a kando, again making the T67 option even cheaper. I may look into getting one for my SR

Thanks mate, really glad I read that as these are a well priced item

go for it man, will be happy to do as a comparo for people

my ultimates caught fire on the street. very very poor pad performance.

post some pics blake, I have a GT28 housing here I can photo and compare for u

LOL WINNAR

HAHA all good mate, was a good day. Lucky you didnt have any 'T25 plans' as Id have probably freaked out, trapped in a barren land.. No idea how to escape.... The west.... LOL

to be honest its just a tired motor as said above, but it doesnt mean you need to do ANYTHING. if its not burning oil or mixing things where it shouldnt be, just leave it alone. main thing is that its consistent, not ONE bad one showing theres a serious issue... when they are all consistent it shows the motor is intact but a little worn. years ago my best mate had a CA that was abit like that (only worse).. He put a disco on it, boosted and tuned it to a good 190kw, thrashed it for ages, sold it to another mate who put slicks and a locker and ran a 12, who then sold it to a friend of a friend who competetively drifted it for another 4 years (evidence on NS if you really need it) and then sold the CA to a bloke with a dato in working condition (literally nothing wrong). drifter boy put an SR in it............. 3 of them to be exact within the first 12 months. so yeah. unless ur pedantic dont worry about it.

my comments still stand regardless of if its a tapping or a clicking, if its a tapping its more likely to be mechanical than it is electrical and again more likely to be the cam actuator more than it is the solenoid. have you got a spare VCT cam gear (actuator) lying around to give it a go? I just think its nonsense that the VCT engaging can make the valves hit the pistons. Unless the cam timing is out.

but even at 2.5" surely you can make it a 3" front

LOL WOT Ask your tuner if he has ever dismantled an engine... VCT ventures down and decides to visit piston.. Hello piston, I am VCT. If the tuner literally thinks that when VCT is engaged that the valve timing is causing the valve to make contact with the piston than you have a serious issue. You should have lost compression on all cylinders in that case. Devastating result. If our VCT is noisy when it is engaged then you will need to test 3 things: is power/signal constant to VCT or inconsistent causing it to flicker on/off? Using stethoscope type tool listen to: VCT solenoid and see if thats the noise OR try to listen to cam actuator and see if that is the noise. If the signal to VCT is constant when engaged and it is clicking away, either the solenoid is rooted or the actuator. If the signal is inconsistent the click could be the VCT constantly disengaging and re engaging, which would be an electrical issue. Then again if the solenoid was electrically screwed it could also have high resistance causing the signal to trip out and then try re engage etc. Back to the drawing board.

does it really need to be 4"? lol cant it just be 3"?

IE me and you testing animals in the rain lol

lol i wanna make that track day before the rego expires dude, i need to be able to fill it up wherever and whenever, jerrys just dont cut it! Im seriously struggling to find elbows for the T28 at a decent price... might just get the .64 housing for the disco afterall (its cheaper in the short term)