GTScotT

Yeah the internal gate one they do comes in an L2 rear, might be worth trying. I had the crazy idea that this one would be better though: www.ebay.com.au/itm/Turbocharger-SR20DET-SILVIA-S14-S15-TD06SL2-18G-Turbo-/270893185830?pt=AU_Car_Parts_Accessories&hash=item3f127dfb26 The TD05H-18g has about 280kw in it with a 10cm housing, maybe the L2 rear in that one will free it up even if its a 8cm.. Thats my thoughts anyway. Bro can you PM me a price to put a gate adapter on a stock manifold, cut and shut my dump and weld on a screamer? Seriously thinking about a kando again lol

So I can impress people on forums. I'll get right on that. Then I'll use my 'new found' literary skills and talk about reinventing the wheel on SAU.

Not as good as the L2 variant..... What SR are you using man? This is getting a little OT tho haha Cams open up an SR big time, you could cam up with some rocker stoppers and springs then rev it to 8 on a short ratio. Make the most of that SH you have (if you really wanted to keep it). Either way the above will be a good upgrade anyway

Furthermore, does this mean most of us now need to go and retune our cars as were probably tuned 3 seconds out? Does this also mean I will shave 3 seconds from my 0-100? That would mean some of us will be defying physics. You should start a thread about defying physics.

There goes all credibility right there.

You ask lots of questions boy. Heres how it goes: Kando TD06SL2-20g T3 10cm - td06sl2 rear wheel, TD05/06 shaft, 20g front wheel, trust .60 front housing, kando T3 10cm rear housing, oil+water cooled CHRA Kando T67 T3 10cm - td06sl2 rear wheel, TD07 shaft, 25g front wheel, trust .70 front housing, kando T3 10cm rear housing, oil cooled CHRA The rear housing would not only be 100% interchangable between the above models, it is exactly the same item. I put all this info into a post on this thread and also in the 'lets talk TD06' thread. Enjoy

Light throttle and extend the revs between changes. As an example go redline 1st gear and keep it off boost, you will find its far from impossible and is extremely good for pissing off people giving you hoon pinkys for having a 'loud muffler'.

Havent you seen the tailpipe squiggle lines on Initial D and Wangan? That means the gas is travelling very fast. 3 seconds would not translate to squiggle lines IMHO.

If you can take a photo of an L2 vs a T67 and measurements that would be good. They should be the same item.

Yeah you can definitely get different variants, yet the usual housing you get on the T67 is the T3 10cm Vband item You can also get a T3 10cm Vband on the TD06SL2 20g, in this case the rear end of the turbo is identical. The TD06SL2's we have been buying and reporting back how tiny they are are all 10cm Vband jobs (me & ARTZ), so yeah.. Same tiny housing that would be on Simons T67.

front housing - massive. rear housing - tiny........... EDIT: for the millionth time its the same rear housing on a T67 as a TD06 lol could probably do it using one of those bolt on gate adapters provided the compressor housing doesnt hit the strut tower Actually im pretty sure if you read back through the 100 page thread Simon makes mention of trying to low mount it and what issues he ran into

Im sure if you had evidence to support that the injector failed during its warranty period and took the motor with it they would be willing to help you 'bury the matter'. Especially If your only asking for the cost of a used motor and a replacement set of injectors or refund. I so agree that people with big budget builds shouldnt stinge a dollar, but a bolt on application is some what different in my eyes. If reports have them working well than you can assume they work well, and buy them. The Nismo 740s are available on ebay for $1020. I ordered a set for an SR @ $680 and they were good/genuine. Yet no orings, no warranty, no nothing.... Just nismo boxes and a receipt from japland. All well and good to assume the seller will do the right thing (me a men) but have had the case in the past where i sent an item back to japan and never heard back again. Atleast with the DW you are dealing direct with the manufacturer and their rep. Get the DWs ARTZ

Insight quoted me about 1500 plus plus for a flex tune, i would need to pay for workshop labour to drain the tank and i would need to supply fuel for them to mix I would use an adaptronic ecu and a GM ethanol sensor or the recommended Link/Vipec item but I think the adaptronic is a lot cheaper I dont think its worth it either way.. you are far from maxing out your SS2 as it is, you should sort that out before you bother doing anything else

I have used kando lines and a kando manifold, they were all top quality in all ways. I am not sure about their external gate but if the price was a good margin less I would be more willing to give it a go than I would any other generic brand. I hope that helps.

if only the forum had a tag function like FB..... ARTZ needs to see this guilt toy your being sarcastic right?

My own car was tuned by one of the biggest names in this country, admittedly it wasnt in good shape at the time but the tuner more or less tuned it to whatever and sent him packing (previous owner being a mate of mine). IMHO this was a half arsed effort and shouldnt be the case. The owner was somewhat naive and didnt realise there was any issues, he trusted the tuner to report back anything they found (as requested). The tuner believed the cat was blocked, thus they punched it out for him as a test but still had a bung result. They finished the tune as is and gave it back to him saying it was fine. I found the middle muffler was blocked, once removed the car instantly picked up bucket loads of power but only made it to redline once. Knocked so hard it blew the motor. Not the tuners fault the motor blew, I should have known better but didnt care. But the tuner definitely let the old owner down by giving up after the cat wasnt the real issue. Again, biggest name I know of (internationally known).

EGT, monitor your exhaust temp when tuning. Tells you when you are starting to max things out or if you have restrictions. Cool thing to have.

The compressor inducter looks close to a 20g, which is 52.6mm and the turbine exducer you can see is 55mm which is the same as a TD06...... The core also looks like an MHI item and the rear housing is DEFINITELY 100% MHI However, its anyones guess until you take the housings off and actually measure the inducer/exducer's with a caliper.

Nismo 550s They get very sooty after lots of cranking but they arent getting wet unless im really trying for too long in one go. I get fiery pops out the back too. I sprayed start ya bastard down its throat but no go. Pretty confident the timing is out but how it could be is beyond me..... maybe my cas is stuffed. Its picking up a consistent signal and is registering RPM on the data screen of the microtech but just wont start. When I timed the cas I took the rocker off and put it to TDC where the cam marks met the silver links on the chain (it only gets there once per 4 rotations - der 4 stroke) so i know that is right in theory.. I dont think its possible to put the chain on wrong (and AFAIK its factory).. If the cam gears are meeting the links exact and the crank is saying TDC it cant possibly be mechanically 180 out.......... I have a feeling the S14 DE dizzy drive gear is slightly different to the DET CAS drive gear and is causing me some sort of odd timing issue that I hope ill find when I put the timing light onto it. Thing is this tune used to work.. Then the battery died and I couldnt restart it. I then changed the entire motor (as it had spun a bearing) and rewired the headfk spag bowl it was prior until it was 100% stock. Got it started on the stock ECU then rewired the microtech back in, and it never started again -_- lol Wiring is that freaking simple it CANT be wrong. that is all.

This, and the car drives like a bag of shit in the mean time. Good tuners are hard to come by, but unigroup are very good.

Dooooooood, if you want to sell that TD05H 3 bolt housing YOU MUST PM me. Also, the guy will be jumping on with E85 so I highly doubt 20psi will be a boundary for him. More like 26 I would say, but well see.

coz he originally bought it already moded and has NFI? a couple of the cars i sold were sold on rep, the new owners have NFI whats in them and if they arent in contact with me when they sell then they never will equally so many people get their cars done at shops and dont ask questions

Ricol automotive has impressed me many times with PFC tunes, would be happy to use him again for a PFC - and is well priced too

Put it on a dyno and find out just how much power its making and how much boost its running. Dyno opperator will be able to tell you if its safe or not. If its got well over 200kw and tuner says its safe you can assume that its tuned and has an upgraded turbo, if its making around the 200 mark or less then its a stock turbo and you should turn the boost back to 12 at most. This is if you fail at identifying what it is for yourself. You really should have asked about the cars full history when you handed over your hard earned coin....

full boost is around 36-3800 but remember that one is a high comp DE, it will bring it on a little earlier plus has minorly healthier cams on a DET though ive seen then do 240 at the power your asking, i definitely think its the turbo for you man