GTScotT

I actually rang them today, they were closed over xmas (understandable) and the tech there was actually really helpful. Told me to try a couple of things and call him back if it doesnt start. But he confirmed my method of wiring and all the rest are all fine and no issues there, also said i can put a timing light on it while cranking and check where it is (didnt know that) and told me how to properly set the TPS which I didnt know. With the TPS issue resolved and knowing the timing position definitely is correct it should start

lol ask Jezza for a copy of the dyno sheet we did I dont think that one was falling off and was definitely coming on really early

If I had 5c to play with I would consider offering you something for one of those brake kits lol, yet I would say they are long out of my league. I still need to pick up a drum handbrake rear as it is, cant fit my R33 rears on yet. So Roy you got an EWG TD05H-18g? If so very excited for you! Im confident that will impress you. STATUS has claimed an 8cm is worth 260 and a 10cm is worth 280kw, I would say the main thing holding them back is IWG, so sounds good!

LOL @ nistune, its on the cards..... Obviously cant put a timing light on it either coz the fking thing wont start.. I suspected the pump being an issue already, even low fuel, etc etc... I put a fresh battery in it and it nearly turns over quick enough to idle on the starter lol.. I actually grounded the pump control wire also so it just stays on while cranking. Still no love Ive timed the motor mechanically as per the FSM (rocker cover off and lined up all the timing marks) and I have spark and fuel (injector pulse too), but no go. I even sprayed startyabastard while cranking and it just wont fking kick over... Its trying and splutters along but it just wont do it. I changed the reference points for the cas a little and got it sounding a little closer to starting but not close enough obviously.. FFS I could really use some help right now lol... I put an essay on the microtech forum and thus far I am the only person to have even looked at it.....................

They do have a TD06 version of the one Jez was tuning the night I met you, but I doubt its what you want... I would stick to a TD05H if you want internal gate, or external gate TD06. Internal TD05H-18g (trust T518Z): http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Turbocharger-SR20DET-SILVIA-S14-S15-TD05H-18G-Turbo-/270893185910?pt=AU_Car_Parts_Accessories&hash=item3f127dfb76 Internal TD06SL2-20g with T518Z housing: http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Turbocharger-SR20DET-SILVIA-S14-S15-TD06SL2-20G-Turbo-/270893186106?pt=AU_Car_Parts_Accessories&hash=item3f127dfc3a Internal 20g like above but with 3" comp cover (i think this one would be better): http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Turbocharger-Kinugawa-TD06SL2-20G-w-T518Z-T25-Housing-/280806645825?pt=AU_Car_Parts_Accessories&hash=item4161616041 External TD06SL2-20g: http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Turbocharger-Kinugawa-Mitsubishi-TD06SL2-20G-T25-Flange-/280806646097?pt=AU_Car_Parts_Accessories&hash=item4161616151 And something I thought was very interesting: www.ebay.com.au/itm/Kinugawa-Turbocharger-3-Anti-Surge-TD05H-18G-w-T3-8cm-V-Band-External-Gate-Hsg-/270880573643?pt=AU_Car_Parts_Accessories&hash=item3f11bd88cb Somebody must want that one for an RB20!

The issue darren is talking about goes beyond detonation, he is saying the charge temps are getting to a point that takes its toll on an already tired engine You need to remember that compression doesnt just whittle away over time like its just a number, it literally deteriorates as the condition of the motor does. Worn rings, worn bores, worn piston crowns.. Add more heat to the mix and you have yourself a motor waiting for the last straw. I would say 140psi is the rough benchmark of 'worn' for most nissan motors Ive tinkered with. Most motors ive used at 130psi have died shortly after lol. I believe 180 is the highest it can be and 160 is about right for a healthy motor. They should be within 155-180 from new. Once a turbo gets to its peak its also running pretty hot, as stated - cool for a healthy motor, not so cool for a tired one.

I believe hes more or less using the boost as a relative reference to how hard its tune.

ive had to park this concept for now, mechanically/electrically/tune wise I cant find a problem and everything is right but my shitf*ck gay microtech just cant get the SR fire up. spluttering like it wants to go but wont go... will pick this back up once i stop losing sleep about this new problem

its about GTRS spec yet there are no results to confirm the simple answer is 'yes in theory'

^ that was a valuable response, thanks

and Ron, i believe the difference between a 255kw and 279kw SS1PU would be fairly small.. minor difference at the end of the strip and mostly the same for the first 150kph. i also think a SS1PU at 255kw will blitz a G3 at 270. Kapish? please take some interest in and do some reading on the HKS GTRS... see what people think of the staple 250kw turbo. my understanding is that it comes on that early and snappy that acceleration will eat the 300kw setups pre 200kph

bad tuning good tuning whatever, darren is right a sloppy motor will let go once you lean on it boost is just the indicator for how hard you are leaning on it in this case

Got to be happy with that, a nice figure. Stao made slightly more on 2-3psi more boost but I doubt it would be that noticable between the two cars. As long as its coming on as early as it should that should be one very quick skyline

Thanks Dale, very much agree it will be careful nozzle selection that pulls it off but definitely believe it is doable without too much hassle. Ill definitely read into the best way to do it, but am chasing the simplest method over the best... If my boost fed plan isnt half as good as an electronic kit i will probably ditch the idea.. Unless a kit is available fairly cheap. The S14 is designed to be a bang for buck project which I seem to need reminding of very regularly. Thanks heaps for the falcon bottle heads up, that is freaking clever because they are more or less the radiator header tank rather than an overflow.. They are made to hold pressure and have barbs exactly like what I need, THANKS! Also very nice to know how helpful it is man, that is a tiny cam in that old clunker of a motor making nice power with a good MPH. My brother put a 3037 on an Astron2 2.6 POS and only managed 170kw with lets call it NO MPH When I head to pick n dont pay for a BA TPS soon Ill pick up a header tank for teh lulz, see how well it will fit into my battery tray on the S14 Think water alone will fend off both big boost AND my 10:1cr or is that a tall order? LOL Ive seen these setups make rotaries do things that seem impossible

you have the antisurge .60 front though right?

LOL O RLY?! A turbo motor without a turbo SUCKED? Who would have thought! Stao today you have earnt your masters of rocket science! Lol only kidding mate, funny thing to see - thanks for sharing haha

mate if you want an easy 300 go the kando t67 it is arguably similar in response to a 56T 3076 but is $800 delivered and actually gets about 330kw on 20psi 800 will buy you a 3076 housing... its good value and theres a massive thread on them now. please read it.

Stao what turbo did Birds test drive? sounds nice Some people prefer the meaty feel for a daily drive, I wonder what final output it had

fair enough.. Im still in consideration stage at the moment. the setup is a .86 28RS on an internally standard SR 10:1cr, im wondering now if the WMI will help me go beyond the compressors usual envelope or if it will just get me there more comfortably being able to fill up anywhere and just keep going has been a priority to me in the past, it shouldnt change but i do have the power bug afterall.

ARTZ is considering the same thing, if steveoss or torques could update everyone on their venture that would be great!

unfortunately my car is running a microtech, I am on the 'buy a house' budget now and cant afford to change it again my thought is to have an airtight tank under bonnet with a barb on the top and a barb on the bottom top barb has a check valve and a ball and spring like a turbo tech to regulate when boost can pressurize the tank, bottom barb runs direct to the atomiser which i will mount into the suction pipe on the turbo. as the system hits target boost pressure the turbotech will open and push the water through the bottom side of the tank spraying its mist into the non boosted intake stream thus the dual map idea isnt going to work too well unless i am manually switching... plus i dont think the microguess has dual map capability (i am surprised it can window in and out....) good to know it doesnt consume it too quickly, I would probably end up with a 5 or 6L underbonnet tank if i was to go ahead with it and just want to know it will last atleast a week of heavy driving or atleast one full track day.

Hey Trident, Reviving your thread for some quick info Im about to get my SRDE+T on the rollers and am considering a WMI kitup for myself, however I am thinking about it on a boost fed pre turbo arrangement with a very fine low pressure atomiser Can you tell me the relative water use of your system? And can you tell me did you need to run dual maps to run with/without or was your tuner able to simple have a boost down area of the map and boost up area which needs the WMI? I was hoping I could tune to the pre 12psi region without WMI and then the tuner goes hard from 12psi to whatever he can get using distilled water alone It would be good to hear your thoughts having done it yourself

Haha love it! cant wait If caltex does a better roll out of that stuff ill be onto it quick smart! Somebody needs to contact their marketing dpt and inform them of how immensely popular that crap is with performance folk I would hate to cart my car all the way to wakefield for a track day only to run out of flex half way thru the day

Thanks OP, I enjoyed the quick read Interesting to see that they are dual ball bearing, pitty builders usually ditch the core's when they get highflowed.

Any update on this?