GTScotT
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Everything posted by GTScotT
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As stated above, stick to the GCG highflow. Its a good stout unit, dont fix what aint broke.. So make sure its not worn out before you go changing it or bothering to rebuild it. You already have the PFC too so make sure you have the right injectors and AFM for your power goal, alone with FMIC TBE and a fuel pump and all you need is a retune. GL
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On flex too? Man I would be tuning on caltex flex if it was available at more than 3 servos in the freaking state... I rekon on flex and 30psi you would be waking up to a wholeee newww wooorrlldddddd push the thing up there anyway, see what happens
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Good move bro, I hate AFM's. Try to retro an airbox back in then put a 4" adapter to the box and run a 4" pipe from the turbo fo the box. FYI you can use an EVO pod filter adaptor for an easy 4" mounting flange. I do something similar with the airbox in my 200, I use an SR20 3" pod adaptor bolted to my airbox where the AFM normally goes and have a 3" pipe from there to the front of my 3" turbo.
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Is that correct? Hareys cooler got hot after just 1 run? If so you should definitely change that mate, that would be holding you back a long way.
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its brand new purchased from kando they are a good product but you need to check that sort of thing before you put them on... only a mechanical part made on mechanical tools...
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there are two alen keys next to the flapper, did you try those? it could be that you are getting so much volume through the mid range that you cap it out early and cant do anything about it. either way your results are already good lol
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There was a 10k to do list on my JZR33 and a car I had owned previously came up for less than half that. Full prepped S14, only catch was the SR was rather tired and the wiring had been butchered since I last touched it. Mrs bought me a spare motor with 55ks as a gift and I spent a few weeks rewiring the car. JZR33 partout price has exceeded S14 cost so far. Simple stuff I guess, nothing like a tractor to pull you round a bend.
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There is an adjustment on the back of the turbo, you can adjust the creep amount with an allen key. Stao can give you advice to doing this. I think the outcome is that you will boost higher up top than down low, but thats not really an issue if you just turn the boost down to suit
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Theres 4mm of difference between the two, and the housing in question is a TD05H specific item.. I dont believe in ground out housings unless they are proven to work. In this case Ive not heard of one of the TD06 IW housings working, yet have heard of one struggling to exceed 240kw (kando). As for your setup, you will do it on a 10cm.. I think if I was doing a 20 I would run a TD06SL2-18g triangle 8cm. Ive read a few times over the years that a round turbine entry/flow path can give 30% more flow.. Just because its round. I think the 18g has a nicer ramp onto boost and would be good for keeping it on the boil around a track or even on the street. Keen to see your results either way! And PM me if you have accumulated any SR spec trust housings along the way, I would be interested in buying one of these from you.
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tight radius bend for tight ass banana bender!
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GCG tight radius cast bend My link
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apparently the TD06 wheels dont work too well in the internal gate housings. Ive done a td05h-18g on an SR20DE, tuned by Jez, is very impressive yet Im not confident the internal gate TD06 variant would be the same best thing to do would be to get a china spec trust 3 bolt manifold, then get the 8cm trust 3 bolt rear housing and a decent gate. you would be laughing then
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Cant blame you, its a well proven unit. You will get your power goals with it should the rest of your setup be up to the task
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Sounds like you hold some superficial value in mothers, would you like to buy mine? I'll do you a good deal, just give me your car - you can then resell her for the one in the vid.
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If you want 250 then go for the SS1PU, its arguably better than a highflow.. The benefit to the highflow is bolting it back into place and looking close to stock. But you are considering a G3, so I doubt looking perfectly stock is a big issue for you. Consider this: if you definitely want 300kw, then get a G3. If you will do every track day your local track can offer, you want a G3. If you will do 80% of your driving on normal roads you want a SS1PU. If y ou want good response, you want the SS1PU. Put the two cars against eachother, on a short coarse OR on the street the SS1PU will probably win every time.. On a more open circuit or the strip itself the G3 will probably win - pulling away in 4th gear. I hope that helps.
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TD06H 25G looks good on the dirty thirty by your calcs
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Stao, totally agree on the cooler. Like everything I would say the manufacturers of our old china cores have since moved on to supplying people like HDI or similar, and smaller (lower QA) type companies are pushing through the no name stuff. Ron, its just that for the majority of 2009 and 2010 I plotted and planned nearly every feasible setup for an RB25. I then decided to throw caution to the wind and aim for more power than the motor could do, and bought a 1JZ. Shortly later Stao started producing his SS based turbos and I have been kicking myself ever since. Its a good product. I'm even tempted to put one on my SR, what more can you say? For a solid fast spooling 270kw (What I craved) I believe You can either buy a HKS 2835 Pro S, do a kando setup with a big external gate, or you can use an SS1PU. The HKS costs a mint. The kando needs a fair amount of custom fab and the SS1PU more or less bolts on and is optimized for what the desired outcome is. Many test models, many hours of R&D against an actual RB25, a predictable outcome with mostly off the shelf and resaleable parts. /end of story/
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Exactly. Bite the bullet and be the pioneer that shows everyone how good the product is. Dont wait for somebody else to buy it so you can see if they fail, its snide trash and is only showing you how good the turbo is on one given setup. Not the setup you yourself have carefully planned, built and trust. You could be looking at SimonR32 vs that guy with the auto, both run T67s with 100kw difference in results. Just not the same kit up. Dont wait for a scape goat guinea pig to come along.
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Considering the ping resistance E85 has got you could pump the timing in and see massive midrange gains. A 'little' extra assomometer numbers can be expect Also, its a GTX with E85....... Why stop at 300? Get a good tuner on board and tell them to PUSH IT. I would be surprised if a GTX3071 couldnt flow an outright max of 340 on E85 With all that extra midrange Id be expecting its going to be two different cars.
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a little tack weld around the back side of the flange cant hurt LOL!
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excitement!