GTScotT

+1 plumb it in. I dont know a motor that wont benefit from ventilation.

the rest of us clearly thought it was just that obvious lol

lol unfortunately not. I wish the tale behind that tyre was as simple, but im sure you know what your looking at

OK the reason why is because I honestly believe the kando does not suit your application. You have preached that you want bolt on and no fuss, and you have dictated a power goal with maximum response. What I am doing is utilizing the knowledge and experience I posses to give you the best possible advice I believe I can. At this stage there is little to no evidence to support that the fabled 10cm 20g will meet or exceed Stao's efforts. I believe it could go either way. The method that Stao uses to create the SS1PU involves a balance of the highest flowing turbine in the tightest possible high flowing housing he can match together. not the biggest with the smallest, but what is tested to be a good match in terms of the desired outcome. He has done exactly that with your 270kw fastest spool request, a turbo just for you. Call it the ronaldmcdonaldPU. Stao pushes the flow capacity of each to their limits to achieve the best result possible, which I think is GREAT for the application he intends, and I am TOTALLY for it. When you consider the Kando 20g, it is also similarly described to the above. A tight housing, a smallish high flowing wheel, it should spool quick and make some good power. It obviously flows as it is working well for Simon (same turbine same housing to T67 vs SL2 if both 10cm). The big plan behind the Kando is the EXTERNAL GATE. The constraint envelope, while still present, is opened with an external gate - not for purposes of additional power, but additional operational headroom. This added operational headroom makes little to no difference for the average user. Someone who will go do track days and boost around on his daily duties, which the HG will do and will do happily for minimal fuss. The Kando however is more likely to be happy doing 4th gear on a hot drift day or be punted for 30 minutes straight. As much as I love the HG, this is what I do to tyres: Do you do this to tyres? Do you get your brakes so hot they melt your tyres? lol. This is my reason for liking the Kando and why I dont think the HG will suit me. I melt things. I am the one. You on the other hand have made mention of wanting to track your car eventually, and that you like to drive it around. You currently have a stock dump pipe and turbo, and havent broken that yet. You have also asked how to bolt a v band to the stock dump, and if the wastegate plumbs to the dump and back into it again. All in all, get the f**king hypergear.

USDM anything goes What is NASA or NASA upgrades?

E85 or ethanol based fuel like eflex have great knock resistance. This means you can pump more timing into the thing everywhere on the map, more timing down low means more torque and the graph stands up earlier. Ethanol based fuel will make any turbo look more responsive on the dyno, you will be able to tune it harder where it counts and your area under the curve will be awesome. Most of us that follow this thread generally have a firm understanding of what the product is and how it works, we are generally looking at the finer details to how something opperates rather than the base figures. You are getting a flaming because you are somehow interested in these turbos without a firm understanding of how the setup works nor taking them for anything but face value. Let me break it down for you: T67 vs ATR43 G3 - Both will see over 300kw, both are proven. Both will do what a 3076 does on paper in a roundabout way. The G3 does it in the simplest way possible (cheaply bolts on), the T67 does it in a complicated labour intensive way. In the end you come out with something that is not borderlining with restrictions and sort of 'pisses it in' with the T67, and you come out again with the same thing with a G3 but it cost you a LOT less hassle. Have you read the 10 second GTST thread? Why do you want a 10 second GTST just to run it once and daily it forever more? Because the owner just wants to know he has a 10 second GTST......... In this case us morons have a similar excuse for being involved in the developement of these turbos. For gods sake... Hypergear has nearly perfected the art of making turbos that do spastic delivery at XYZ killawasps, why not just do him the justice of buying one. You will not know the difference, as there simply is not one for you.

he did get it tuned it did something like 260kw on 17psi and he said it went like a shower of shit compared to his previous GT30 based setup. he was real happy and i last remember he was planning to retune to more boost and see over 300. you dudes need to stop being so fanboi and actually read the damn thread lol, i have read nearly every turbo thread on this site from start to end. DO THE SAME No offence intended

yes its normal to drop lower when you come off WOT, -30 in that case would be fine you really need to show us how its been hooked up from where to where. have you tried upping the boost or what? make sure you have the solenoid hooked up right too in terms of in and out

wait for ARTZ too, his setup is the benchmark in my eyes and i cant wait to see his results. stock manifold, gate off the housing, good size gate, stock plenum, basic support package.

If you can swap fuel companies to do this sooner rather than later I will jump on that bandwagon all the same.

He's a wishful thinker, thats how.

Those are the compressor wheel sizes. The 16g is normally also available in a big and small trim too, small trim is uncommon from kando so dont worry about it. The big 16g shares the same outer diameter as the 18g and the 20g (68mm), you can consider them the same wheel in different trims (although they are not quite..). The 16g will be the best spooling item and is what is used on evo's 3 - 9 (normally capable of up to 240ish all wheel kw). This is a TD05H 16g6 (big 16g) The 18g and 20g go up in power capability from there, the truth is being a similar wheel they are probably close to as capable as eachother yet working at different boost levels. The 20g will come on a little later and a little harder but will make the highest power on the least boost. For a fast spool application the TD05H 18g with a healthy rear housing (10cm) would be good on a 6 cylinder and should make an easy-ish 240kw There are youtube vids of TD06 18g on 1JZ motors available, do some searching. The results are surprising, rather quick and come on very early and smooth. I would rate this to 260kw.

you will spend more on supporting parts to actually have the CT26 fit. wrong flange patterns and all the rest. you could simply send your stock turbo to hypergear and have it sent back for $960 with everything you need to bolt it straight back on with minimal fuss. you will then need the suggested FMIC, TBE and a fuel pump as minimum before you go get it tuned. At minimum you are looking at about $800 for a china spec exhaust that will probably be extremely loud. $500 on a china FMIC kit then the suggested $1000 on a nistune (these are ROCK BOTTOM prices and you will probably pay more) and $200 on a fuel pump you will need to install these yourself to meet these prices Then you will be limited to 220rwkw by your stock injectors and stock afm, add another 1000 atleast to purchasing these and you will be able to chase 240kw. If you want more you can get a different option from hypergear which can cost up to about 1550, and go a lot harder. however you will then need to mod more cooler piping and a new intake pipe, budget another $500 for this. Your call, weve covered this sort of thing over and over.

I was going to photoshop a comeback of rednecks driving around in camo pants, but weve all seen your youtube vids

I think linishing can impact tolerances though, whereas I'm of the belief micropolishing wont harm the specs of the bearing section I'm happy to be corrected there though. I just see it more of a mission to linish then tunnel bore (if needed) than paying a little extra to micropolish. I think phone calls would need to be made before going any further either way, pitting is never good for soft metal bearing sections (IE cast sticks into an alloy head or cast crank into copper bearings). I did happily use a pitted flywheel recently though (with a brass clutch) lol

you can get them micropolished by a machine shop and they should be fine. I wouldnt risk the sandpaper method on a good set of cams. i cbf for a keyboard war but there is no simple rule of thumb for cams, the 10,000rpm comment is not accurate. keep on topic.

What flange is on your greddy manifold? If its T4 then no. T3 or 3 bolt then yes. T67 10cm would be nice on the 2.8, be sure of how much power ur chasing then pick the turbo to suit. Dont concern yourself with picking one to suit your manifold, it doesnt work like that.

why didnt u take the box out with it?

I tried to embed the video but it didnt work, it seems simple enough but there must be a trick to it..

Good stuff man, now you are on the money!

What is this? Turbo 101? What about more boost implies a smaller gate will suffice? Remember that more boost will be more flow, more flow will mean it needs a gate that can flow it. Just because running an undersized gate will overdrive the turbine and hold high boost while sucking at low boost doesnt mean its a good thing. Equally so running a bigger gate doesnt somehow suck at running lower boost, DOES IT? Don't be so feeble minded to think the extra flow will balance out with the added shaft speed needed for the boost, it aint that simple. My gate cant bypass enough gas to hold steady boost. Oh yeah, duff man. Get the f**king Tial MVR you tight asses, Im sure a $300 turbosmart progate is not genuine to begin with.

Awww..... 'Yeahhhh, but race carrrr.. '