GTScotT

lol is this about performance or sound? beware the flame to come..

Remember that Jez's kit up is based around being budget orrientated, so Im sure theres a monetary decision involved in getting the 38 over the 44. Jez I think you should get the 44 mate, do it once do it right.

I thought the R32 GTR diff was an R280 with a 2 way centre? I could be wrong..

Its like buying a V8 Commodore.... Its no special supercar out of the factory, not unless you buy something really expensive.. But hey if you want a V8 taxi then thats good for you. On the same token if somebody wants a 10 second skyline for the sake of saying I have a 10 second skyline then good for them too LOL

Im pretty sure a '10' on a reasonable budget can be referenced in SimonR32's car... I think that is roughly as close as you will get without doing a stupid amount more.

Its honestly just sitting pretty ATM. Just PM me an offer and I'll consider it. It needs a basic clean and recheck with a straight edge and its good to go. Valves/springs/retainers still in place. Will need to look for the buckets, cams are VCT and rusted. As stated, welded to suit RB30 block, not non VCT yet using typical R33 DET head means easy fitment with Freddys ETC

good to hear its performing well once you have your flow and vct issues sorted it will come on like a champ.

lol a dedicated thread dude, get cracking i figured id prompt someone who hasnt started yet seeing as yours is mostly together LOL

Self tappers and a cordless > zip ties and duct tape > nuts bolts glue. I also have an RB25 head (DET) that has been VCT deleted to suit RB30 block, has also had exhaust valves retouched. Is a fairly bare head. I will sell this if anyone else wants to venture down this path (or if you need a spare Crans) I also have an S2 RB30 block yet the crank has gone walkabout (unsure where it is and needs oversized bearings). Has the factory line bolt holts etc for turbo.

Dori you should do a DIY thread with pics for a 20g 10cm and document your results. Itd be nice to see the bare minimum done to fit one up, and documented for all to see.

Your going to spend 400 bucks on a foam LS1 to see if it fits? LOL dude its a commondoor motor... Why not go on a common forum and look for a blown one for $50

Zeeb I have an LS if you are looking, VT2 clubsport kitup with box etc. Some of you have me on FB, youve seen my photos. Car is mostly done, not going back now SR all the way.

Nice. I would love to see a G3 on a 25/30. I believe it would be a nice combo.

lol no chance, just wait till u see what 300whp does in an S chassis. S is for Secret weapon

I have more or less gotten away with murder also when my cars have not been overly loud and have had respectable rims on them etc. Cheap looking oversize rims and very loud exhausts will get u screwed regarless of how normal your car is. A well kept respectable car will go unnoticed in terms of them being total pricks. Then again it depends what your caught for too. I love this thread. I wish I had another 6 so I can run a Kando... I think im better off with a stock position turbo on the SR though, good work to all the guys with nice Kandos on their RBs.

I think if u slice the mounting flange between the cylincers u will fix the gasket problem.

Not sure if you frequent the Hypergear thread Disco but the whole purpose of his CNC billet wheel adventure was to test out the 'more blade less hub' concept. Seemed to work for him too, there are losses in response evidently yet if manufacturers could hunt for a happy medium we could see great things. I think one thing that needs mention at the moment is the push to big pressure ratio capable compressors.. There seems to be another tradeoff there which I think could be hindering us 'cheap' folk with older cars and smaller budgets. I would like to see manufacturers go back to low pressure high volume designs for us hobo's. Otherwise MHI still has our back's.

Tial MVR is the go Dori, proven performer. Also not sure where to get it under $400 or I would LOL Ron your comments are all well and good, but please make sure you have a firm understanding of the setup you are describing and how it works before you attempt to undertake such a move. Make sure you have your labour aspect of things well sorted and know the implications of a screamer (if you opt to go that way) or how standout your setup will be to NSW highway patrol.

LOL its the right one man, good work. Johnny B - go with tried and true man. In theory the water cooled one should work just as well but run cooler, but it comes with a smaller compressor cover and thus could be a lucky dip in terms of results. The T67 is a known performer, no guess work!

+1 A cheap middle muffler could possibly make the drone worse. If anything that little hot dog in the middle is whats making all the racket in the car. Remember that good exhaust companies design their products in a way to make them sound good and flow well. They position mufflers in specific positions with diameters and restrictors to make them sound good. A basic muffler slapped in the middle wont fit it. Ive run straight pipes before with 1 muffler at the rear and can say all the noise was at the back of the car. Windows up, AC on and listening to moderate levels of music and the exhaust note was everyone elses problem - not mine. Plus you are going to hack up a pretty nice looking exhaust and whack on a mild steel piece of shit.

A tip, the GT35 turbine seems to be more successful in a .63 rear than a GT30.. This could be a cool combo IMHO

LOL I think there are heaps of cars out with over 300kw on 98, Trent has even posted to expect 330-340 from a T67 on 98. Certainly not the limit.

I think I'm expecting more also. There are plenty of results on Evo's to compare outright power against, I dont think outright power changes that much across engine types provided the motor can flow.

That's an awesome result man. Once you get a decent sized gate on it and wind some boost in youll be laughing. I think most of these guys havent realised that the turbo should be nowhere near its peak efficiency yet. Not using VCT would be a total bummer and robbing you of response, your boosting it between 11 and 15 psi when they want over 18 to even roll out of bed and your using a mainline dyno which tend to be heart breakers in terms of power. I think on the right boost it would easily match those figures on 98, given the above. You should have pioneered a 98 tune before you hit teh flexxx. Im about to SMS you too.

More things to go wrong man.. useless hoses melting and crap like that. Just block em.