GTScotT

Unigroup supply fit tune of a Nistune board. Cant just tune a stock ECU now can we? LOL need to buy the tunable bit DVS JEZ is cheaper but I dont like to quote the cheapest, that gets peoples hopes up. Unigroups price should be close to standard so wherever he is locate he should be able to get it done for around that much. If the car was well set up to begin with I would still say budget $2500 to high flow and remap.

He will take it off and replace it with a new t04e or better yer a kando turbo (another ebay turbo for the uneducated). A cut and shut on his dump and the rest of the described setup (gate off the manifold) will work a treat. Actually I think this could be interesting, yet I think the 50 trim would be better. AND I think we can calm down a little as its not like he has come with his hands empty.. We know its a T04E based turbo and we know what the inducer and exducers are. With a little effort it could be easily identified and SOMEBODY is bound to know what that particular item is capable of OR atleast know to say its not good or unknown. OP if you really want a solid 260kw from the described setup please read this thread: http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/topic/347726-kando-dynamics-turbo/page__st__1380__gopid__6155230#entry6155230 And consider this turbo: http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Turbocharger-Kinugawa-TD06SL2-20G-w-T3-V-Band-Housing-10cm-/280776600350?pt=AU_Car_Parts_Accessories&hash=item415f96eb1e By the end of next week the results for that particular turbo will be up, it will honestly be a safer bet than your unknown T04E... But there is nothing wrong with an old T04 in my eyes, yanks pull it off in a big way even today. Most off the shelf turbo kits out of the US encompass a T3/T4 T04E type turbo. Goodluck.

So whats your current opinion on the 9psi its on? Comparable to what?

Get a basic high flow from Hypergear using the stock housings. It will mostly bolt back into place with the exception of the oil feed which he will supply you. With what he will send back it WILL bolt back on easy enough. This will be a rough maximum of 250kw worth of power but an easy 220 with the stock AFM and injectors in place. You will need to remap your ECU if a stock turbo does not go back on. Expect to pay $960 for the highflow job and $1350 for the tune.

I'm all for cost saving on things like the turbo, if its built to spec then its built to spec. But injectors I believe are a different ball game. I'd get the Nismo's, they are what they are meant to be. Purpose built to replace the RB/SR side feeds. Why not try find a genuine used set? Otherwise get a FReddy and china rail + bosch (my 2nd choice and FReddy + T67 seems to = WIN)

For the money I would rather get genuine nismo 740s. The Nismo 740s are meant to be very good to tune with, as good as stock and better than the Nismo 555s. Do it once, do it right.

550 minimum. 740s so you can switch to eflex later.

Lith I really think you should go the T67. Cheap, simple, effective. And I want to see your opinion once you own one

If you read this thread from start to finish you will see there isnt one yet. There are some pioneers coming up here but it takes time. If you want to take the reigns please go ahead, we are all interested.

Pretty sure all BMs used a slanted motor, but its definitely doable.

You need a new intake and pipes for both. The SS1PU has the same fitment issues on the compressor side as the 20G. 3" in 2" out. The HG WILL be cheaper, there is no doubt about it. I believe the 20G will be more track friendly (big 44mm gate to let off steam) and will probably deliver a more consistent result. Again due to the external gate. For all we know an external gate SS1PU could be even better. But he doesnt make external gate housings for them as most customers want a stealthy simple install. Again recommending the SS1PU.......

To further clarify you will NEED to firmly understand the task described before you go asking people to do the required mods. IE the WG plumbing.

Thats pretty much spot on. Get the 10cm 20g, cut n shut your dump, weld the gate off the rear housing, plumb it into the dump as far down as you can, presto. Just to clarify, the gate needs to be fed pre turbine. So either off the housing or the manifold. You cant feed it off the dump as you will be trying to regulate post turbine gases.... AKA no boost control, hello 40psi. IMHO there is no such thing as a snappy 280kw... The HKS 2835 Pro S is the closest most reliable thing you will get, but that is rare and sought after. Between some of us we believe the 10cm TD06SL2 20g is the alternative, but it requires the external gate to match. Otherwise you can go the HG.

G3 for pissing in that power level SS turbos are definitely aimed at spool up rather than outright power

Look I dont mean to be 'mean' but you are comming across very naive. The V band rear end does not bolt onto anything... its a clamp in flange. It comes with a clamp and a V band ring for you to weld onto. You make a dump pipe and weld it to the V band ring then clamp it on to the back of the turbo. Does this make sense? I said it prior and will say it again, your JJR dump is obsolete if you want to get an external gate, sell it. There will be no adapter you can feasibly make to adapt the JJR dump to a 3" V band. Just make a V band dump. And yes you can plumb the external gate back into the exhaust flow. External gate setups can hold more power and get better boost control. For example you could run a tighter rear housing and be able to get better spool and power than the same turbo internally gated. A good example of this is running a 3076 internal gate, you need a .82 rear end and people like Simon S14 have been successful running a .63 rear end with an external gate. Yet everybody knows the .63 internal gate had flow restriction and boost control issues. Simon S14 was able to exceed the power of the average .82 IW 3076 and get better response. The costs do have benefits but it is a BIG cost. External gate does not sound like it is for you. I recommend you get your stock turbo highflowed using the stock housings. Unbolt it, send it away, get it back and bolt it back on. There is a lot of work in doing an external gate setup and you will need to know what your on about so you can arrange the works to facilitate the change. If you can trim down your desire for power to a 250ish kw tune then you wont need an external gate.

Why? The SS1PU is a sweet little turbo, just give it a go. This recent backlash of melting AC grommets is rubbish, just make a heat shield of some sort and it will be fine. Or that alloy based race tape stuff. To fully fledged do it right with a kando will cost more than a hypergear and will look no where near stock.

Sorry to break your heart but this is and always will be external gate land. The internal gate housings on offer are not what I would call optimal, you will need an external gate setup if you want to reap the benefits. ARTZ setup is the bare minimum for running one of these turbos. Even for the questionable kando internal gate turbos you will need a custom dump which will cost atleast $500, your JJR bellmouth will be obsolete. Hypergear has you sorted, off you go. SS1PU is for you.

*regrets selling Jez 20g*

Its a lot easier to find results on SR20s, and they dont struggle to see 300kw. They are about as potent as a 3076R for power but more responsive. The 8cm housing on an RB25 would make it fall over very quick and have limited tune resolution. 10cm would be a different case. I have also seen TD06SL2 18g driving videos and can say they look VERY good. FYI trust sell a TD06S-20g kit for the 1JZ with a 12cm housing.

e70 on the 20g should go over 300kw, where the line will be drawn is anyones guess

That turbo will probably go like a bag of shit and last one oil change. You will spend more money making parts to fit that turbo, like dumps cooler pipes and lines then you will buying the turbo ETC. Buy something decent from the get go, Kando Dynamics are cheap and reliable: http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Kinugawa-Turbocharger-RB20DET-RB25DET-2-4-Cover-8cm-T3-V-Band-TD06SL2-18G-/290635791753?pt=AU_Car_Parts_Accessories&hash=item43ab3e3d89 That would be a similar amount of effort to install but would be worth using if you are funds limited. That or a hypergear highflow would suit you better.

it says its for an R34 and it is a HKS system it is 80mm in diameter, much larger than standard this will not work on an R33

I think you would be better off sending your turbo to Hypergear and knowing what you have on there for a nominal amount more. I think HG charges $960 for a high flow? Atleast you will know what you have and what to expect. Pretty confident that is a good 230-240rwkw option from memory. There is an entire HG thread, please read it.

My understanding is screamers: are illegal cannot be engineered incur a $15,000 fine if they bypass the cat converter Plumb them in and you wont need to worry about it. There is also a law that says any road exhaust pipe needs to end after the rear axle, but that wouldnt carry a big fine as long as it went through a cat. To find out the fine ask for what the fine will be if your vehicle does not have a cat and is required to, as this is what they will book you for.

As stated the boost level isnt your limiting factor, its where your turbo runs out of puff (so to speak). There will come a point where the turbo is simply pumping hot air and it will mean a bad tune ETC. With the right turbo theres nothing to stop you putting over 20psi into the stock motor, even that is nothing special.