GTScotT

Read the last 10 pages in this thread, it was uncovered and debated between there.

Thats it yeah, its what Evo's do to combat the electronic bleed valve they use to control boost. Be warned though, the restrictor will naturally raise the boost level too... You will need to turn the tee down and you can effectively not run a tee at all with the right restrictor. From memory a standard mig tip would boost an R32 GTST to 1 bar stable (same goes for a Z32)

definitely do the oil pump, that is the Achilles heel of the RB

American dynos..... so hard to trust them. I liked his comparison to spool and power though, power of a 6262 and spool of a 3076. That was possibly more insightful than the comparison boost curves. Anyway nice to see a successful IW TS EFR, have been waiting to see that.

Not to sound like an infomercial but just get urself a turbotech for $40 and DW about it. They dont spike like the bleeders and due to not being a bleeding operation promote faster spool faster too. I have canned SO many EBC based setups ive worked on for a turbotech and never looked back.

BW CEO daughter stat rape case 101

you mean the flapper? if so it should be repairable by someone like hypergear

photos?

Im fairly sure that the general consensus is that a moded single turbs GTST is more exciting than your average twin turbo GTR. Id stick to the RB25, if its shagged give it a refresh and soldier on. Use the money and heartache saved from the 26 swap to do some mods on the RB25.

Make sure you have individual cylinder temp bungs on the exhaust..... Off the bench it might flow different on the motor, you don't want one cylinder running leaner than the rest and melting pistons. Just sayin'

You must be wiring it wrong, get a pinout diagram before you go any further

This is the result of a person who either plays too dumb or talks too much shit. Take your car somewhere decent and say as little as possible in the most informative words you can think of. "G'day mate, how much to make a 3" intake pipe for me? From the turbo to the airbox with 2 bungs in it for the breathers, the turbo and the AFM are standard 3" hose outlets - nothing bolt on. Thanks" Answer: "that will be about $xxx mate, when do you want to drop it off?" OR why dont you ge a standard 90 degree bend like everyone else does and run the pod/Z32 on the end of it? Then drive it to a shop with the BOV and breather disconnected and ask them to simply put the bungs on for you.

Spot on. If its not right it just wont eventuate.. Its the accumulation of parts that gets the results. If you want the results Stao gets you will need to mimic his setup.

well i had a tuner take the liberty of smashing my expensive metal cat without confirming id be ok with this thinking it was blocked. then still blocked tuned around it and told me its fine but ill need a new cat. ages later i spot the mid muffler on the catback is crushed so i change the catback, pick up infinity KW and pop the motor lol. long story short sometimes they do look at teh catz a little harder than necessary and give up there. Noob Tuna's.

Pretty sure removing the pintle caps from the stock injectors doubles your flow rate. The injector isnt damaged in any way on the inside and can still function as it should, but the spray pattern is effected as described aboved. how bad it is im not sure... but I can say bad fuel consumption is to be expected have owned a set of these done by ceffie

Silent S

I dare say the forward facer would not help response. My reasoning is that longer runners give better torque and flow distribution. Larger volume in the intake tracts also gives better volume ability. IE a fatter cooler pipe after the IC than before (more volume for the denser charge). Be it myself I would run a pipe atleast the hose ID of the throttle body from the TB to the cooler. I would run it 90 degrees from the TB then out by the manifold like the HKS cooler pipes do, eliminating the big crossover pipe. I would do this not to shorten the length but to eliminate that crappy crossover pipe which varies the ID.

You need: Upgraded turbo ($1000 to $5000) Upgraded injectors ($500 to $1200) Z32 AFM ($250 to $350) Fuel pump ($200 to $600) ECU ($1000 to $3000) The above price ranges reflect the range between used or highflowed items and new and custom items. Suggestion: Hypergear highflow (tell him you want 250kw and to use the stock housings) Used injectors (S15 440 or Nismo 550-740) Walbro or Bosch 040 fuel pump ($200 new) Adaptronic ECU and tune (about $1600? Hypergear can supply this for a good price with your turbo and you wont need an AFM) Thread closed, if you need to ask questions about the above - search.

external or internal is application specific. you could get the most epic internal gate turbo out and have zero use for an external gate or you could want to run a turbo that does not have a good internal housing available and will need to run an external gate. putting it simply: stock NO 35R YES 2835 pro S NO 3076 .63 YES Kando T67 YES Hypergear NO Do some reading and you will see what I mean. Bare in mind that you cant necessarily search for 'external gate' and find the answer, you will need to read lots of results based threads to find out what ppl are doing with what turbos and what the effects are. A good example of this is Simon S14 with a 3076R and .63 rear housing using an external gate, generally speaking a .63 is a terrible thing on a 3076 RB25 but Simon is one of the only ones running it as an external gate rather than internal. A good comparison in results to this is the lots and lots of people who can successfully pull off a .82 internal housing. That shows you not all things are equal and you need to know your turbo before try to pick its setup. GL

there is a K04 upgrade process you can do... audi a3/4 and TT use the same motor, the a3/4 use K03 and the TT K04. all VW use K03... So if the same motor can run a K04 on the TT im sure theres an easy way to fix it up. a mate had a K04 passat, it was actually pretty quick and pushed over 200kw at the fronts

Thats the thing about forums... Cant delete your old posts

cool, so I guess you think everyone that rushed out and bought GT30s back when the write up hit SAU returned their the turbo if they didn't get 300kw? That was the aim of that turbo on the RB25, yet if you look at real world results there is a 250kw result for every 300kw result with seemingly the same effort applied. In your eyes I guess they should all get refunds! I should blame a supplier for my blown SR, it was running tuned for 7 years then the day I put on their catback it blew! Those assholes sold me a faulty pipe. Sound funny? Actually its exactly what happened to you. I put something on my car and thrashed it while it wasn't tuned for it. Boost spiked, it went way harder, god knows what else, and cost me a healthy motor. My faux pas as I didn't think a simple catback would throw the tune out that much. On my life one lap around the block, pop. Its no hero story, just consider it though. Its entirely relevant to your case, ive read all your posts, including those when ur motor was untuned in the stages area.

Im honestly not sure why your chassing the TD06H though, what we know suggests the L2 is going to be more responsive and able to max out the flow of the 20g with ease. Dont forget Simon's T67 uses the same rear wheel as an L2, no flow issues with the 10cm....

The only issue is that the .63 will really limit you power wise. For reference, a .63 on a normal 35R limits its capability to be very similar to the 3076R. It still keeps some of the lag though. There is also the Kando Dynamic 10cm rear housing you may like to try. It is MUCH cheaper than buying a garrett and has shown to flow very well with the TD06 wheels in it (up to roughly 400rwkw is not out of the question). I think under $200 delivered as apposed to $700?? for a garrett housing.

I think a step 1 cam will be better than the stockers all round