GTScotT

.63 is going to be very tight on a GTX35, to run that turbo you will want a .82 The other issue is your turbo is far exceeding your stock bottom ends capability, that setup should be good for over 400rwkw but the stock internals will generally start to let go at that mark (400rwkw about 530whp). If y ou dont own that turbo yet you may want to consider another option unless you want to built the entire motor. I will make point that you have used the words 'less lag' and you have picked a fairly laggy turbo (running a tight housing is a bandaid fix and will just cost you power). You will be better off with a smaller turbo if you want more response (and not need to build a motor). AFAIK also the regular GT3582R is looking more favourable than a GTX3582 or GTX3076, something you may want to review before you buy (GT series wont need as much boost to shine).

Pretty sure that will be plugs mate, check them out and even consider gapping lower than .8 if necessary (.6 works well)

you end up with a garrett OOOOOHHHH SHIIIIIT

Get the part number off the compressor housing, I wonder is they are 6s or 6SL2

I doubt the data would be relevant, your talking about a 20 year old sliding resistor..... Im sure the resistance across it would be different between examples.. Back to the drawing board

Ah yeap phone could be the issue, no worries either way.

I thought the fatz was a hoarder or a vulture, why sell at half price already? Its only been a couple of months... What specs anyway?

I have used japan autos myself for a few items, they are pretty rough at times and you need to be careful. If they say the item is in A1 order they generally mean it, I got a couple of engines which were as good as they said they were... However I did an off the books R154 box and I got sent a box missing the inspection plates and fork assembly (which I specifically asked for). The guy to talk to is Tony, PM me if you want his mobile number and you can call him to sort it out direct (no email stuff).

I think everyone whinging about fitment woes needs to remember the above. Mostly that the accumulation of parts used could end up in something too close somewhere or vise versa. The other thing people need to note is that Stao could produce his turbos with a generic 5 bolt rear, then you can all go get a custom dump made up like you do on a garrett or any other brand AM turbo for another $500 odd.

Stao do you mind giving us any idea of the SS1PU rear wheel specs? I am becoming increasingly interested in that turbo, I think you have done really well with the billet wheel.

Actually my bad, you have a spec 2 Here it is: http://w.greddy.com/upload/file/PRofec_Bspec2.pdf On the Greddy website, who would have known!!!

Hey mate, Please search in future...... I'll help you out this time http://www.paulr33.com/manuals/Greddy_Profec_B_manual.pdf That is from another SAU members website, he has many cool and useful resources on that site. If ever you need a manual or a wiring diagram for a common skyline related part OR you want to know ANYTHING about the Apexi PFC please go to www.paulr33.com Thanks,

That's the heater pipe.

Pay me and I will, but calling you an idiot in person incurs a surcharge. Calling the mechanic an idiot I can do for free though. As stated by Stao and the others, its the same jig he uses mate... And we are talking about 1.5cm (15mm). Honestly if your car was at home I'd come lend a hand, no question about it. Being at a mechanic I honestly don't think its a good idea... CBF punching on with a mechanic because he just got told by a noob. Just PM me your location and if it is downright convenient enough I will call it a maybe.. I dont have a license so I cant just drive over.

So many people... So many successful fit ups... Two idiots who think they know better. Nothing personal guys, just stating the facts. These turbos fit up, no nonsense bolt on rear housing. 15mm or no 15mm. If you think about it, AND AS AN EXAMPLE ONLY, it could be that you reversed over a park bay stopper art woolies and bent your hangers. Something that little could be what sets you appart from the dozens of other cars running around with hypergear turbos. Or you could just have a shit quality dump, cat, catback - whatever. The accumulation of parts is holding you back (in lilcrash case the towbar) not the turbo. Why not take the entire exhaust off the car and start at the turbo?

takes a lot more pressure. remember we are talking pounds per square inch..... not a massive amount of force in that little hose, a cable tie done tight will hold it. but I agree nissan could have tried harder there (however Evos are the same - i think they all use JECS items?)

That could be 95% at 10:1 AFR, could have more in it. As stated though about 230kw on the safe side..

Sure can. Normally I use zip ties for vac hoses, not sure clamps are worth the effort.

Guaranteed to read higher on GM vehicles.

lol RB50? Maybe thats why its so epic EDIT: on a serious note, did you do a leakdown test before you removed the head?

The turbo wont have any stress on it mate.... Its a piece of iron bolted to a piece of iron... The stress will be on the rubber joiners.. Just try, everyone else has them work. Yours is no different.

This. Safely.

Got ya. Neglected to consider manifold pressure

The variance in rear housing protrusion wouldnt throw out the exhaust, as said rubber hangers will flex. Just loosen off that one a the cat as its a fairly tight one to work with. Stao what is the exducer size on that turbo? I would like to see one in a .64 SR20 rear on an SR20..

Something like that, I wonder if the riser is for failsafe or if it actually needs it to run the injectors right... Either way I am not convinced the vac hose is all that made it ping, sounds like the tune is either pretty hard or too close to the edge.