GTScotT

get the td06sl2 20g, it will spool faster and it can flow more than enough also see this housing for their 8cm T3 internal gate. http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Kinugawa-Turbo-Turbine-Housing-TD06SL2-T67-T3-8cm-Internal-Gate-Mitsubishi-/290621301428?pt=AU_Car_Parts_Accessories&hash=item43aa6122b4 just need to have the rear lopped off and drilled out

you will be limited by the standard ecu. if adding the boost controller to a bog stock GTT i think you could get away with 10 or so PSI.. Yet I would want a dyno to back this up with safe AFR's and no knock. as you add mods like a turbo back exhaust and front mount cooler you will want to re dyno the car to pick the safest boost level again. ultimately you will want to pick your final level of mods and then have it 'tuned' for them using a nistune or similar. either way, welcome to the rim of the money pit. prepare to empty your wallet and then some.

How many K's before it gave up the ghost Roy? I seized my last 20, it finally gave up the ghost to the point of total lock on my driveway. It freaking got me home before it totally f**ked out. The next day I rolled it down a hill and clutched it back to life, then drove it to wakefield. I ended up giving up trying to break it and replaced it with my spare for the sake of it (one I was trying to break had a burnt valve and I picked up a lower K spare cheaper than the cost of fixing it). Long live the RB20.

pipe is pipe, its the material you use that counts. use stainless not mild steel.. HOWEVER personally i would use an off the shelf cross flow kit... there will be very little difference in eliminating the crossover pipe (the one with the blowoff on it) but you could do that if you wanted to. look up a 'HKS fmic' kit to see what they look like when eliminating that crossover pipe.. thats the shortest method you could use without going to a forward facing plenum. again i wouldnt bother..

+1 if you want to run an RB26 block thats fine, but do not bother doing the head aswell. Put your RB25 head on with an external oil feed to the VCT port (easy to do) if thats all you can find that will go in that is. To put a whole RB26 in with the heads and all you will need all the intake and ehxaust side to go with it, wiring harness and ECU. Not worth the hassle IMHO.

Firstly I applaud your efforts and your attitude mate, good on you for trying to nut this out. My question is: Is the manifold twin or single scroll and is the turbine housing twin or single scroll? I have found poorly matched flanges to the head/turbo/dumps/cats ETC ETC to cause enormous restrictions like what you are seeing. It is a lot of flow and a little bit of turbulence would be exponentially worse for its power making ability as the flow climbs. Check this out and make sure everything is nicely matching up. See if your manifold has carbon deposits on the flanges indicating a poor flow path ETC. Also, and perhaps more importantly, I have come across another RB slapper recently that had the exhaust cam out by 1 tooth... It just did not want to make the same power it did before because it was ingesting exhaust gas once the boost came on and killing off its spark ability. Make sure the cams you are running are in spect with the belt/camgears you are using and its all timed up 100%

http://www.xenocron.com/turbo-precision-turbo-clamps-flanges-c-39_106.html?osCsid=db72863b123ed4a29f873f841cb2ba5a Google malaka

I doubt anyone has used these on this forum yet. I would still recommend using a used set. If you want to be the test mule for them Im sure plenty of people would want to see.. Up to you.

also google returned a lot of these: http://www.gtr.co.uk/forum/81265-part-number-single-turbo-rb20det.html

Searched 04U.. Get that L2 on there before I come to Vic

to RB30 an AWD you need a custom sump adapter to fit the AWD sump on I believe.. there is a write up on this forum, but I have to say that is a whole new can of worms.. Im not recommending this conversion for you at this stage and you will definitely need a new turbo because the 30 will choke. As for what broke your motor, to me its clear as day and I will just say it straight out. You put the car together and took it to get it tuned, the tuner identified you had an issue holding boost/making the right power. The tuner left it at that until you got those issues sorted. You then tinkered with it trying to fix it and overboosted it a handful of times. Unfortunately it only takes once @ 20+ psi on an untuned area of the map and bang, damage is done. Its nobodies fault, mechanic did what he could at the time and you overboosted it very briefly by mistake. It does happen. To be honest your motor may have been overboosted by the last owner or a fuel pump died ETC, you may have just been the last straw on the camels back. I agree with GTST and I stand by my recommendation prior. Get a used motor, put it in, hook everything up how its meant to be and limp it to a mechanic to have it tuned properly. If the mechanic identifies a problem with it PLEASE let him fix it.. I dont say this because you are incapable but it could save you another motor. Im fairly sure any RB25 will work fine, you just need to swap the sumps over. Anyone care to confirm?

+1 now get that exact turbo on your JZ

MIC?

I was stood face to face and told I am a piece of shit and that he cant wait to sign my death certificate when I turn up dead. Head moron and two highway dudes at Bankstown police. Apparently Id raped his wife (by speeding at 4am). NSW highway patrol = those kids the bullies picked on at school, now getting their revenge on society. Kents should undergo a drilling of a syk val before they get given that job, I have met ones that I can safely say need to be in that role.. But the rest, screw that.

EPA do not allow anything non standard or meeting OEM specs... IE FPR, front mount, exhaust Its more of an 'anti hoon' thing than it is environmental.. They actually print a photo of what the engine bay of your car looks like stock. If they open your GTR bonnet and theres a f**k off single in there they send you packing. Come back when you fix this, but sir I spent a lof of money fixing that twin turbo POS problem?!

Everybody is scared of the cops in NSW... But honestly what for? I dont know anyone with a normal modified car thats been sent to the pits. I know lots of morons with 2sus charades that do, and some unfortunate prick with an R32 that lived next door to an EPA guy (neighborly conflict). Other than these there has been the odd case where a mate got EPA'd driving around his drift pig. If you have a reasonably well maintained car and dont gate by cops on a regular basis you should be ok. They seem to respect enthusiasts. This means you will need to lop your mullet off and reduce the level of epic in your do if you want to get away with a big single.

Dont you have a job Z? Either way, hope you have had your tetnis shot lately...

any adjustable suspension bits? rear camber, front castor? PM me if you do ill come down and pickup ASAP.

I will have my T518Z (kando dynamic) results up within a week. Will post to the Kando thread, will be on an SR but comparisons should be fairly relative. I have to say, so far the T518Z SR shits on a GTRS SR........ And I am expecting it to make the same if not more power. I cant see why anyone would pick a GTRS over a T518Z given housing constraints werent an issue. D_Strils depending on how this current T518Z adventure goes I may approach Stao about making my 2860RS into something more. The aim would be to lose as little response as possible but get it up to 270kw.

lol i think he gets it, the turbo is shit. hes planning to get a pretty nice one too so it all sounds good and the rest of the setup is well sorted for what he plans to do/ Johnny, for a workshop built setup 14k (parts price in mind) isnt too bad. Im sure hes spent a packet elsewhere. Its a freaking expensive hobby when you pay for NEW parts to be installed by SOMEONE ELSE lol. OP, can you confirm is that a GT28 Tial rear housing or what? I didnt think they made those..

Spot on mate. Boost source > boost tee > wastgate. Nothing in between.

Interesting and valuable info there Dave, helps even me with my build May I draw everyones attention to the RB25 dyno thread.................... An interesting result in comparison to others of late. Once again seems to be an accumulation of parts rather than just the turbo...

OK sounds like the cost is reasonably justified then, the missing link is you kept the 2876 Ditch the 2876 in place of the correct turbo, fix the oil pump issue and your laughing.

Shop around and you will find one cheaper. Don't forget to tow it to a tuner once the motors in.

Can you tell us what $14,000 cost? And what tuner it was?