GTScotT

The biggest shame in the EFR failure to date is the exhaust housings, as Lith said Garrett need to focus more on that. Im getting tired of seeing comp maps climb exponentially for the sake of a few Lbs of flow.. Its like we are having new products come out and saying 'the power of a 3071 with the response of a 2871'...... In reality we will need to build motors to accept unacceptable boost levels to match a result that a trick exhaust housing could have done to an old hat product at an acceptable boost level. Honestly.... Meh. As an end user not looking to build a motor any time soon these new products are bleeding boring. There is definitely a market for them but it is definitely not focused on the average owner/driver. In Lith's example, interesting to see them on a GTR, all well seeing as there are housing constraints at play, yet we are definitely talking BIG power and a BIG budget motor. These products arent going to yield some magical 350kw result.. I see these changes are a bleeding of the colours from the old hat 400 and 500kw targets. We may turn -5s (and some) into -10s in terms of response and power, a bleed across from the two (read somewhat -5 response with -10 power). Still not something we all want to rush out and buy as -5s are already enough to pop a stock motor let alone at 3 bar of boost. Le sigh. New product fail. /end rant/

LOL I like this thread, good effort man. You post up some cool photos and I like your story Keep it coming!

I think you have your answer in that post man.. .63 up and get a gate. I wouldnt change the turbo but.

forging it is an option. In your case I would buy a used motor first and keep your failed one to see if you actually need to spend the money on another build later get a used motor whack it in make sure everything is done and hooked up right limp it straight to a tuner and have them do the rest, no matter how much work it is just let them do it.... please.

Yeah your oil problem could be as dramatic as it is because of Cyl 1. Sounds like a cooked piston fr those symptoms (busted ring lands, crown) and that would let combustion pressure into the oil system. Well there you have it. Get a 2nd hand motor and fix it. Consider taking it to a mechanic.

I think you would net better results if you just delete the GTX3071 part... Stick with your current CHRA an use the money on a 6boost then the manifold and gate. You should get what you want but then you will probably want more thereafter.

Not sure if this has been covered or not.. Nissan Exa's are notorious for overheating, caused by missing splash trays. The splash trays play a massive part in keeping air that flowed through the front into the engine bay and out underneathe the way Disco described. I myself have had a similar problem that continued to worsen the more bandaids I threw at it (bigger and better coolers and ratiators, thermostats etc). Make sure atleast up to the cross member is covered from the front bar and between the rails. My 2c.

10cm TD05H Kando? I will need to look... I mean I dont want an external setup

just when i wonder what ever happened to my efr quote.... you come back to remind me

mines a high comp, 740s and definitely willing to screw the boost into it.

Zeeb..... Are you SURE? Is it not a manifold away? Or is that the thing you dont want to replace? ARGH if you want to nut it out SMS me and ill brainstorm with u

they are an 8cm

they are meant to be

Take this as a grain of salt. In the history of how many motors Ive worked on, two have snapped brand new head bolts when torquing up.. In my frustration I reused the original bolts and all were happily ever after. Note: they were the only two motors I ever put new bolts into

LOL i tend to do rash things buy expensive stuff and sell it at a loss... tends to be the nature of my game just let me finish this 200 then well talk lol

Try it, what do you have to lose? That allen key controlls the creep up top by reducing the flapper size, just give it a go.

Sometimes theres no way to tell with that boost level.. I find that turbosmart is reliable when it comes to big boost application. If they rate an item to that sort of boost you can count on it that it will do it. As for jap brands, Ive found blitz ones normall tell you their rating.. Most I have played with warned not to exceed 1.3 bar.. Yet on a GTR we used two and didnt have a problem beyond that.

There is an allen key near the WG flapper. That adjusts the WG creep... Ask Stao for a 101 tut on using it. With everything else uve tried I doubt you will finally blow it doing this one.

Yours is losing too much boost. Your losing around 8psi from memory, too much. 5psi would be the maximum I would expect if I was running 22/23.. I wouldnt want it to drop under 17psi by redline.

get a turbotech for 30 bucks, borrow a boost gauge or just freaking get one then set and forget. I am yet to see the need for an EBC vs a turbotech on a simple 'one setting' setup. Save yourself the time, effort, money and all the rest. Get a cool looking boost gauge and a 30 buck turbotech and be happy like the rest of us.

Well they better be ready to man up because I want more than that lol

He means it works the same as a normal turbo, rather than having oil feed directly going to the bearing itself. Standard oil feed goes in the top of the turbo and sprays in to lubricate all.

Being Nistuned by Unigroup for this one, expecting to see 240rwkw BUT am hoping for over 250. Have seen a couple of these doing 240rwkw with very respectable boost (16-18psi). As you know Im pretty gung ho so Im going to have them turn up the whick on this one until it starts to cap off. I would put it as a little laggier than a disco, yet making GTRS power. For the record the delivery absolutely shits all over a GTRS and I'm expecting it will make the same power.

An update on my TD05H-18g adventure: Installed the Kando T518Z copy today on a SR20DE+T along with a Kando SR20 manifold. The manifold was really high quality for what its worth, changed the entire sound of the car now. The TD05-18g went on without any drama, replacing the OEM S14 T28. All lined up perfect ETC. The driving experience surprisingly has not changed dramatically. Under 2000rpm there IS a notable loss, however you only notice this when creeping away at those revs. Any level of spirited drive has a near lossless experience. I would say the T28 is entirely progressive in its delivery, packing its best punch just before 4000rpm. The 18g seems to have equal effect from 2000rpm to 3000rpm, from 3000 to 4000 you get a significant increase in pull from the T28 and at roughly 4000rpm the power comes in thick and strong with a 'full song' effect. I am very impressed with it so far, am very much looking forward to the full tune with double the boost.

lol happy to help micko, you have my number