GTScotT

lol stop talking about the bloody HTTP and talk about the bloody car!

I think it will be close to the alternator or starter. Look for loose wiring and possible shorts.

Is your catch can going to suck the vapour out of your motor? It seems like you have some blowby issues mate. Hook the other end of the catch can up to your intake.

Thats pretty cool info re the streching, valuable post in future with Z32s coming down in price lately. Thanks,

Number 1, your pipe could still be sucking shut at 20psi. Number 2, if you have no crank case ventilation and the bottom end is full of gas/vapour/pressure what do you think will happen in the head? The RB's number 1 f*ck up is its oil system, it pumps too fast and drains too slow. Putting 2 and 2 together your crank case needs ventilation so you dont get excess gas and oil sloshing around where you dont want it and it wont come streaming out the breathers.

Deposit taken.

Bullshit my L2 was a screw in fitting.. Do you not receive SMS mate?

The mostly rubber intake could easily be collapsing when your boosting, causing a big boost drop up top. If that is a stock gutted cat your not going to get farken anywhere with it. The stock cat is a 2.5" item and that half an inch difference will hold back up to tens of KW. You have a big motor spinning around, sloshing oil everywhere, getting hot and just generally making plenty of vapour needing to be drawn out. The bottom end would normally breath into the rockers and the rockers would then have the vapour sucked out through the intake pipe using the suction of the turbo. That circulation system is no longer there, so when your motor builds up too much presure it will pop the dip stick out and indefinitely spray oil everywhere. Do not bother doing anything but park that car until you have put a proper intake pipe on it and sorted out that gutted cat. Make sure you hook up the breathers properly and the BOV, get a boost source from your first available cooler pipe while your at it.

Yeah but it would fix your problem of stuff not being in the right place. Ultimately this is what you SHOULD do. Not to be a total c*nt but Im not satisfied telling you to do it will mean it gets done. Your issue seems to be you have a lot of custom parts that arent hooked up right. Normally that happens without a general understanding of how your exact cars system works. You will need to familiarize yourself with every aspect of the cars setup in its stock form and how it works before you can start to chop and change stuff. You need to know your plumbing things properly and not running pipes and crap where they shouldnt be plumbed. Example, your boost source plumbed to the powersteering vac port..

Lilcrash do you still have the stock turbo laying around along with all the stock pipping stuff? Maybe you can solve all of this by sending the turbo back to Stao and getting the stock front housing fitted up.... Stealth SS1. Honestly mate if you were local I'd happily help you sort this out

The TD05 looks like its got a 12mm thread also but thats a completely different turbo... Why don't you email Mr Takada of Taiwan and ask him if he stocks what you require. If you said 'Trust T78 to 1JZ oil line' I bet you he will be able to post you exactly what you need.

Sorry that much I knew guys, AFAIK the 16g is the 60mm and the 16g6 is the 68mm as far as model numbers go. I think the T517Z is also a TD05-17c but I would need to look into that again. The SR in question is an internally standard S13 SR20DE in every way. Will be running Nismo 740s, Z32, Walbro, 450mm china core, 3" tbe and a Nistune. Has been running on a factory T28 and DET tune at 11psi/183rwkw for the last 6 years so the update will be interesting. We are aiming for 250rwkw and it will be tuned at Unigroup. Theres a guy with an SR in a E36 on youpoop that had a T517z and went to a T518z, I cant remember if he commented he lost a little response or gained a little peak yet the vise versa was unchanged.. I think it was that he lost a little response but I honestly forget. The big T518z cars i see all run 10cm rears on SR's..... Interesting concept.. I myself am dreaming of putting an Evo TS variant on mine (S15 10:1 CR SR20DE), that would be truly dangerous.

Sorry mate Mick runs a .82

Ohhhh Miiiiiccckkkkkk??? lol

Roy I just want to confirm that both the 18 and 20g compressors have a 68mm OD. In actual fact so does the 16g.. Its the inducer and trim that sets them all apart. IE the rotating mass of a td06-18g and td06-20g would be down to the last few grams.

This is the boost controller to buy guys, simple setup. The controller gets configured to the cars natural boost curve then all you need to do next is turn the knobs. What could be sweeter? The price is less than half too and its in good knick..... C'mon now, it just keeps getting better!

I'm installing a Kando TD05H-18G on an SR this Saturday, I will keep results handy if people are keen.

you mean you would or wouldnt?

Wait and see what his new housing looks like... I wouldnt get one of the housings that has the little 3 bolt outlet behind the turbine.. You would want the rear of the turbo to be all open so the WG flow path doesnt interrupt the turbines path. Ive previously emailed him about that and I think they are working on the replacement now.

OK, pretty simple mate. Your AC picks up fresh air from the skuttle panel (where the wipers are), anything that comes out of your bonnet would get sucked into there while your driving. If your PVC is rooted and letting boost into the sump then you are probably pushing fumes or oil out of the dip stick. Furthermore if you have done a half job of your oil breather system (noting you dont have it running to your intake pipe anymore) it would also be doing the same thing. Otherwise if you have a little airfilter on the end of your rocker breathers it could be that too.

Do you know if this is interchangable with an S14 R200? Centre alone or complete, whatever. If so you may have yourself a dealio.

Freddy (china ebay greddy) is a known cheap performer. Maybe see where SimonR32 got his as it seems to hit the mark really well.

Mmm no. This is a complete running motor, just needs power to the harness. The front engine sump goes for 4-600 depending on demand, the mid sump for 200, the mines ecu goes for 500+, the stock turbos go for 400+ depending on demand, the single manifold is anything above 300, its got low Ks, nissan engine mounts ready to rock and roll AND above all its a factory manual. The price is teh f**king epic.

lol........... well to be honest, the 2 bolt strut tops have some suspect welds on them. I always wanted a double wishbone front S13!! On the other hand, I hope OP isnt serious and/or buying this car on escrow... DO NOT buy anything without a full in person inspection.