GTScotT
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Everything posted by GTScotT
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Fs: R33 Jap 80Mm Stainless Catback
GTScotT replied to GTScotT's topic in For Sale (Private Car Parts and Accessories)
$300 still available. How can you beat that? A new catback would be over $700 -
Hks Evc 4 Electronic Boost Controller
GTScotT replied to GTScotT's topic in For Sale (Private Car Parts and Accessories)
Still available guys. -
Do you need to upgrade or do you need to work out your issue? IIRC your already making the projected power for the SS1 though arent you? Being 240kwasps
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Er34 Gtt Nismo Muffler And Impul Ecu
GTScotT replied to O_Sotiris's topic in Engines & Forced Induction
I actually feel the jap tuned ECU's can be quite good and wouldnt go as far as to say 'need a proper tune'. The jap ones are normally done around factory based cars with typical mods such as exhaust cooler and boost. But I am a firm believer you should always run them up on the dyno to make sure they are doing what they hope they are. The variance in fuel between the two countries CAN throw them off completely and leave you detonating the shit out of your motor. No guarantees unless you get it checked! -
Not really, that would be 1:1 (4th gear) on a 4.1-4.3 diff. Youve been looking at GTR graphs too much zeeb lol. And yes, thats a nice result. Good to see them making respectable power at decent boost levels.
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Did gravity fix your EVC or what Mick? You never got back to me with a full result
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This is an external wastegate thread, were discussing spring pressure in the gate and target boost. Your probably looking for another thread, however I think the duration has nothing to do with how well it will work as its more the lift. IMHO the stock springs are shit to begin with, I would ditch them in a mad hurry.
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My vacuum lines run from just before my throttle all the way over to my actuator, on my SR20. Its quite a distance, probably close to two meters total. Works perfectly find and have done a few like that in the past. No spike issues.
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Fingers crossed for the big M!
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Hey Mick what kind of EVC is it? They are an outright prick to tune but Ive had my hands on enough of them and the various models to know my way around their games. PM me.
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LMFAO. Just when you think you knew it all... FANTASTIC PLASTIC COMES TO COCK SLAP YOU IN THE FACE!!
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If you got it really cheap then you may aswell give it a go. I would get an R33 2IU rear housing and get it machined onto that CHRA by someone like Hypergear. The reason I would do this is it will make it very easy to bolt onto the skyline. The dump pipe would line up and it would also be the T3 pattern needed to use the stock manifold. Your current housing is T2 and suits a silvia, it will cost a packet to make the adaptors and new dumps needed. The next reason why I think this is a good idea is because if its no good the rear wheel in that turbo is identical to the GT2860RS rear wheel, so if it turns out shit you can keep your moded 2IU housing, resell the 2876 and buy a Disco Potato to whack in for some WIN!
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How is it complex? The E turbo would be mounted in the passenger wheel well, the inlet to the E turbo will have the airfilter attached and the outlet will go to the inlet of the ACTUAL turbo. The rest of the system will work as normal. An incomplicated compound turbo setup. That would probably work incredibly well with a G2 setup, I believe the G2 will allow more exhaust flow than an SS? It will need twin wastegate. You could also do a reverse compound setup that doesnt need to spin all the way to redline and aids only in spool. With a bearing cartridge and a clutch setup so that the suction of your primary turbo can keep it spinning up top.
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Connecting the motor to the second battery in a parralel system is... Connecting it in parralel to both. I have some faith in this setup, as long as the compressor is engeered against the motor (rpm/force) I think it will give a really good result. Stao you should try to market this as a compound setup. Strap a small turbo to its outlet and have it recompress the compressed air. As long as you can drive the 1200hp compressor fast enough you will have a balistic outcome.
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Another One Of Those Missfire/hesitation Threads
GTScotT replied to Slattery Gts-t's topic in Engines & Forced Induction
Having given the fault code for ignition signal surely you would want to test the CAS? I too am having this problem as is another member and i am certain its a damaged CAS. I'll give mine a go soon and report back, not sure how early ill be doing this but sometime next week is on the cards. -
Noisey Lifter On Rb25det.. Can I Use A Lifter Additive
GTScotT replied to dave_rb20's topic in Engines & Forced Induction
Next time it makes the noise can you try unplug each individual coil and plug it back in one at a time? If the noise stays the same you would know its likely to be a lifter. if the noise shuts up at all you would know its NOT LIKELY to be a lifter. -
Potential Damage Caused By Restricted Exhaust
GTScotT replied to Randon_I_Am's topic in Engines & Forced Induction
Agreed, at cruising speeds it will be more than fine. Start flogging it and your asking for trouble, it will back up te system and transfer heat into the cylinders = detonation. Personally I would pick my poison and stick with it (loud or quiet exhaust). I CBF for these halfway points that are neither as good as either. A crap restrictive version of a quiet exhaust and a dirty untuned sound of a loud one. -
The motors are physically the same, however the coilpacks, TPS and AFM are different along with the plugs for those in the harness. If you have an S1 motor and an S2 loom, just make sure you get all the S2 electronics including the S2 throttle body. From there you will be fine, all bolt up all plug in and work.
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LOL - Like
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Given some variable speed control I rekon you could easily make something NUTS out of that. Goodluck Stao, it will be interesting to watch you pioneer the concept in public to say the least!
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Charlay bit my finger.... Ouch charlayyyy