GTScotT

GO BANANA MAN!

Goodluck with the C4 man! My brother uses one in his Sigma but its a bit rough for my liking.. Not a brand new rebuilt job just a used one with a stally and shift kit. Personally I would have gone for a 4L60 (turbo700) but thats just because im scared of hard shifts lol. How much did the prebuilt C4 set you back and rekon it would be any good for circuit work or drag only? Shift quality I mean.

There is a rubber seal inside that will come in contact with fuel and other crap floating around in the motors system. Think: rubber, fuel, oil, heat, pressure, AGE. It is guaranteed that the thing has a used by date, and Im pretty sure 20 years of regular duty will have an impact. Especially when a lot of imports sit around on shipping docks forever before their final fate is determined.

Am not sure how a 20 year old diaphragm would cope with a 30+psi setup lol They are out there now, big boost is becoming more and more acceptable and most manufacturers are producing big boost wanting replacements to their older models (BW and the big G inclusive). I would compare the situation to using an expired rubber straight out of lock up. Asking for trouble.

Or you could be like me and sell a car wanting a lot of money spent for a car with the money spent but job done shit lol. Somehow I wish I had another stock as a rock car to only do what mods I wanted as well as I can actually do them. Careful not to buy another persons problem!

Bigger gap is stronger spark better burn. Using coppers its easy to re gap so just give it a whirl.

Is the SE a turn flow? I think a good cooler is well worth it but am not sure about turn flow results on the skylines, I think they cap off at 300kw.

Crack em open and take full measurements to be sure

I have an RB30 series 2 block in pieces. Has been pulled down for inspection and also have an RB25 head modified to bolt straight up to the RB30 block (oil galleries welded and modified). PM me

I flash for all EXCEPT RBT's. As much as I do not appreciate the vast majority of work cops do on our roads, its a fight you will never win. I do however respect an RBT station, I know Ive driven home after 2 drinks and can say it SEVERLY effected my ability to drive. So much so that I now refuse to drive beyond one beer, no matter if I am legal or not. I have come to the life conclusion that alcohol is a bag of shit and RBT's genuinly keep our families safe. Speed traps and cameras, along with all other forms of time wasting revenue based crap, can suck a fat one.

The stock turbo is generally a risk to say the least, a good flogging at high boost could blow it and it might take the motor with it. Stick to 9 or 10psi tops. As for working it without spending a mint, you will need to spend about 3 grand to get a highflow, front mount and a remap. Goodluck.

I dunno... Even that I feel is a dynamic variable.. If the motor is happy revving there then I dont see why not. The torque and power character of the setup would influence the load on the motor, there is no denying that. It just might be as happy spinning to 8 as a different setup would be spinning to 7.

Or further clarification of the 'how long is a piece of string' scenario LOL. I actually find motors that get driven hard all the time withstand more punishment than those that get driven hard occasionally, go figure.. I for one have never killed a motor of my own (my cars are normally dedicated hills/weekend thrash use only) and I have never owned a car for less than 60,000ks.. Yet I have killed a number of friends motors with one good kick in the guts.

Haha sounds like a plan. Honestly Ive had them smoke till a restrictor was used and were fine thereafter. If you buy a braided hose for it the hose should come pre restricted, just get it made at pirtek and tell them it needs to have a restrictor inline. They will work out the rest I guess. You can also buy one of the Kando feed lines on ebay, probably cheaper and you know its for a BB.

My brother spools a 3037 .63 nearly at idle on a POS 2.6 Sigma. All thanks to a 2200rpm stall converter. It ends up making all of 170kw at 18psi with the exhaust housing glowing white but it gives the illusion of a very different turbo.

We here are confident that you will need to spend more money on the manifold than you will on the turbo. Please consider 6boost, ETM or FullRace.

Why are there so many names for the damn things? Do we need to bloody research and document every model just like we did the bloody MHI units? S366... S300SX... What is what and what does it mean? I remember looking at the S200SX and being fairly impressed.

Generally if the oil seals go you will see an oily residue on the rear wheel and in the rear housing. Oil in the comp cover is normally blowby from the rocker covers. Personally I would not DIY rebuild either the BB or bush turbo in this case.

Get the adaptronic from Hypergear, if you buy a turbo off him too he will do a good price. I have been carefully looking too as I also dont want an AFM, adaptronic seems to be the way. The 440 select has eflex capability (good for E85 setups without needing to use the same E85 everytime).

Feel the tension As for WG returns, lately I have been considering the stainless flexible exhaust pipe like what you see on trucks... Theres this very flexible version that sort of slots together rather than the ribbed version. http://i00.i.aliimg.com/photo/v0/448053166/HOWO_truck_Exhaust_Flexible_pipe.jpg

Please clarify what motor they are for, RB25 or RB26?

Just to clarify the whole motor is JZA70R manual guys........................ Izz nott aa toyyyyyy..... If somebody wants the R154 box for the right price it will be available too. Thanks,

Single manifold is a XS Power job, its actually well made and gets my vote. I was confidently going to put a Kando on one end of it. Mines ecu is JZA70R manual. Stock turbos good nick. Will sepparate if I get alternate interest in the motor without that stuff. ECU is the one I dont want to let go easily, its hard to find MT ecu's. Also have the matching R154...... Always my luck! Have shipped to SA before tho, $400 I think.

How many KMs would you have put on the turbo now? Or if its not regularly street driven how many hours use? Love your work as always.

Try the CAS. Ive had one do something similar after it was in a front ender. The motor would actually shut itself down too.