GTScotT

lol god I didnt think a 5 year age gap would do so much.......

I'd pay 400-600 for the dump including WG plumbing, add another 200 if the WGs need to be plumbed up to the manifold. Probably another 100 ontop for the hotside pipe. Would pay up to but not over a grand for that job.

isnt there an on and off value? can you set it to 2000 and see if your response dies in the ass?

Careful with the slang skip, hes from mother russia. He may feel perplexed by your offer to throw another shrimp on the barby mate. ONE POINT ONE JIGGA WATTS!!

Im assuming you mean the radiator made contact with your fan?

Its been said before.. Its all in the tune. The problem I have these days is finding the right tune. I have to say it...... OEM is unbeatable in so many ways. I miss the days of putting bigger OEM motors in smaller cars. Like an SR20DET from a big heavy AWD in a FWD N14 or a K swapped Civic, running on factory tunes. Even a very basically tuned S13 and stuff like that. The more power you chase the bigger your headache gets.

Unfortunately there are no results for the OBX turbo on this website.. That particular one also looks like it is running an 8cm exhaust housing and is NOT suited to the RB25. The Kando Dynamic T67 has proven itself with a number of good results and no failure rate that we know of. The Kando item is available with a 10cm rear which suits much better plus also is conveniently a T3 flange inlet and 3" V band outlet. Use this particular turbo for 400+whp.

Cut your balls off I see... Decided to buy something that feels fast so you dont have to drive fast LOL. MMM nah I forgive you, poor bastard. My best mate lost a finger in a very basic drop at wakefield the other day, hope you fare better than him.

Dude.. It should be ON just after idle and OFF somewhere around 5... Turning it on at 5 would make your spool SUCK and your power rubbish. Please clarify the above? & LOL @ the sarge in his army prints.

Yes 280kw seems to be the limit of reason, aiming for 260-270 seems like a smarter choice as mentioned. The motor will happily see 300kw but it is a fairly mixed bag when it comes to long term longevity of the motor. I know people that live long and prosper with a 300kw RB25 and others who would kill one in a 'piece of string' scenario. However I would say 20psi is not as much of a problem as 300kw is. I would rather run a little less timing up top and a little more boost to get the desired output. Focus more on mid range for your torque.

His RB25 R32 pig

No harm in big cooler piping. More volume after the cooler will result in a denser charge and more oxygen in every gulp id say. Hurry up and show me what that turbo can do lol

Never received.. I'm sure there's nothing you could say I would not want to share with others, I give you full permission to add your PM to this thread

Its not a 76mm garrett so that means very little lol As for pre turbo water injection, you may need to look into that as ive heard its no good for the compressor. Post turbo might be better.

At a lazy 20psi? Please show evidence to support. The 3788 gets up and boogies long before 30psi

Why dont you get an S1 TPS and solder the plug in? You can use an S1 ECU in an S2 car, so the TPS will work the same. It is a standard nissan 3 prong plug... You could get one off an EXA or anything from the CA18+ era (the plug I mean). Or just find a 3 wire plug and make your own (cut off the nissan plugs and solder a male and female of your own).

To get it on the safe side you could still make the numbers, but you would need to sacrafice some response in a lazier tune. I tend to believe when tuning to limits you could generally tune to a higher number or a faster car, the faster car being tuned harder and running hotter. I also tend to believe the harder you ramp the thing on the earlier it will fall over. Yes I am saying the same accumulation of parts could have a higher powerband when tuned differently, but speed is torque and torque is midrange. Tune to the focus of torque and mid and your numbers are sure to be sacraficed to do it. To tune for all out response and power you would need to push the tune pretty hard with some finesse. This is why I do not bawk at lazier results from customer result compared to Stao's own results. I believe Stao's car gets a quality tune every time that makes the most of the turbo's, I would love to test Stao's car on the track or twisties and honestly see if I can break it.

Yeah for sure, I think a internally gated 20g would suck balls. Thats the thing were all speculating though, if we can replicate or exceed 2835 Pro S results with an externally gated 20g. Yet to be honest the HG stuff meets and exceeds a lot of expectations of many turbos available.. The only thing I truly question is the opperating temperatures when pushed to the limit. Stao would you bring your car to a race track and let someone test this scenario? If it could be proven that the turbo would run at optimal temperatures even when belted on the track you may find yourself looking at more sales.

Not totally correct. There is a balance of parts used that achieve the desired results. Stao is achieving good results working with housing constraints, a convential 90 degree swing valve wastegate is hardly optimal for bypassing gas in a system. It does not effectively bypass the flow path which is probably why we see Staos more effective setups with quite high pressure in the exhaust side (pressure venting rather than flow). That sort of thing is all friction of gas on gas which results in heat. Sort of like how a microwave makes water particles vibrate, when the particles vibrate they create friction on themselves and get hot. Ever wondered why its so hard to microwave some types of pasta? Coz their freaking dry. Unfortunately turbos wont always perform how you plan them to on paper either, which is why Stao's trial and error method has started paying off greatly now. The balance of parts used to achieve good results here are usually pushing things to their limits also, but things will always go hardest when they are being pushed hardest. Just the same you would rather have a 2860 making 200kw than you would a 3076..... The Kando's wont run as hot because of the accumulation of parts used. Good flowing manifold, big wastegate in the flowpath, housings not bound by size or dimension constraints and designed specifically for the exact wheels that are in them. Sort of like why the AVO housings suck on GT30s and a big ugly GT30 housing is a much better option. Turbos are far more 'dynamic' than assuming x power and y spool will = z heat. Just the same that x psi does not equal y power.

You sound fairly switched on so I wont delve into massive detail regarding supporting mods, just search long and hard and make sure you have every supporting mod possible before chasing your power goals. Two things I want to touch on and a recommendation: 2860 -9s will NOT make 330-350 on pump and 380+ on E85. They will make 300-330 on pump and anyones guess on E85 (quite possibly the 350 mark). The precisions will want a lot of boost and you are risking your factory motor in the event of a minor fauxpas. For 400kw you will want to look at a 3788R, it is the replacement for 35Rish spool and more than T04Z power. You must run it in its twin scroll form. Please read the 'who has 400kw' thread, it is the definitive answer to your questions.

Yeah no you are fairly correct. However some of us really wring the necks out of our motors. I would be keen to do a stress test on a Hypergear turbo, I would love to kick one in the guts for a good 20 minutes straight and see where it ends up. Only issue is risking the motor when the heat goes through the roof (if it will). Would be interesting to test.

Not when the new and improved version comes out every few months lol. Best thing to do is to pick one that you agree suits what you currently are looking for and buy it. Dont ever look back thinking damn I should have waited..

That involves using an 'appropriately' sized wastegate more than it does a method of boost control. Those sorts of setups DO work, like running a .63 rear end on a real 3076 (3037 56t). You can do it and it will make the power but in actual fact a good wastegate on such a setup is a bandaid fix for something that needs a bigger housing. Use of stuff like E85 is also good for ping resistance ETC, which is what you need when heat from the backed up exhaust housing makes its way into the cylinder. Consider this: You can have a massive compressor on a tiny turbine, the turbine will accept X amount of flow to reach Y shaft speed. There is a V max for the compressor too, once Y surpases the Vmax of the compressor you are running outside of the compressor map. The big wastegate is bleeding off the motors flowpath to cap off the amount of exhaust gas hitting the turbine and increasing the shaft speed. So the small exhaust housing makes you need less X to acheive Y, then you hit Xs maximum and X becomes a constant from the compressor side impacted by revs. Anyway need to go home, enough theorising for one day. NB 8cm housings work on SR20's which arent naturally big gulping motors.

When was the last time it ran well? What has changed since then? Or has it always had this problem since being built. Is this CEFF11Es old car?

Nah it doesnt seem too bad, but gate selection could probably compensate for it as you said. The problem is more likely to be its running an 8cm housing, the 10cm housing was some sort of mythical creature before Kando came along and I highly doubt his copy was a 10cm job. I rekon theres a chance the 8cm might bring the 20g on so early it climaxes before the motor comes into its natural powerband that it just hinders the whole final output like that. Just youtube 1JZ 20G mate, there are a lot out of japland. As you know Japan doesnt have the forum base we do for tuning.