GTScotT

This. Made my life hell for a few days the first time I did it (stupid enough to do it on the grass).

I wouldnt go off those results, they dont seem to be doing their thing... Roy has proved the 20g to be the goods too. It gets up and boogies the way we would like it to and all on a little RB20. FYI there are more abundant 1JZ 20g results. LOL Shutup Dave, hurry up and get your 20g on, dont make me come down there and repair mustang sally with a sledge hammer and some beer. Do as I say. DO AS I SSSSSAAAAAAAAAAAAYYYYY!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Let me set something straight...... As much as I respect Stao and his products, saying the TD06SL2 is not a good power maker is total GARBAGE. For the 11ty billionth time THE T67 AND TD06SL2 ARE THE SAME TURBINE WHEEL....... Meaning Simons 10cm T67 turbine and housing is the exact same turbine and housing you will get on a TD06SL2 10cm. The difference between the T67 and TD06SL2 is the shaft diameter. The T67 is a TD07 and the TD06SL2 is a.......... TD06! Dont be confused, TRUST used the TD07 shaft with the 'TD06SL2' wheel so they could mate it to a 25G compressor, because the 25G is a TD07 sized compressor. As for response, a little SR20 will get an SL2 20g on full song before 4000rpm and top out around 300kw. Trent (STATUS) has even shown an SR spooling a 10cm TD06SL2 20g as good as a GT2871R (HKS GTRS). Ive said it before and I will say it again, if Simon can make something close to the 400kw zone out of the SL2 turbine and 10cm housing, I highly doubt the little 20g compressor will have any heat or restriction problems pumping through the same turbine and housing. The Hypergear stuff is good, but it gets hot. For my daily driver and occasional drag machine I would definitely get a HG. For my weekend warrior and track weapon (I mean part time track) I would get the Kando every time. Just match it to the Tial 44mm gate and your laughing.

Just a pointer re RHD.... Have you looked into compliance on a japanese car? It would be a hell of a lot cheaper to buy a car out of japan and get it shipped to the states. It just seems crazy doing a RHD conversion on a car that was always designed and mostly produced as a RHD vehicle. Would save you so much heartache to just buy one.. If its an S13 you can pick them up for next to nothing (probably similar there in the states). GL

If you want the motor to last it would be best to get it tunnel bored and the bearings done to match individual clearances (blue printing). Whacking in 'standard size' bearings has only ever been a get out option for me, never used in an application other than reviving a dead motor.

Hypergear currently has options that suit both basic and extended setups (stock injectors/afm to big injectors/z32). The technology has come far enough now that you can run a HG turbo on 14psi and make good power and response that will max out the injectors and afm, and you can then change the injectors and afm and turn it up to 20psi and make big turbo power. Its a good thing. FYI HG's old G1 highflow was close to 2860RS specs, but it would be alot cheaper doing that than it would putting an actual Disco on. Reason being the Disco uses a T2 flange and 5 bolt dump, skyline is T3 and 6 bolt. The highflow will retain factory position so your existing manifold and dump will bolt up.

The main issue with RB25 heads are the valve springs, make sure you upgrade those and a quick tidy up on the head will be all it needs to that much power and more. Im fairly sure most of the 400kw people just do tidy ups on their heads, removing dags and the knobs in the exhaust ports. Port and polishing would cost thousands, but its proven a stock RB25 can make 300kw. The fact your bottom end is built means yours will do it reliably, just work on the basics for a keen result

Ah well... To be honest I think most microtech users would be like us. Happy with what the machine does as the end user can hardly tell the difference. Sort of like a 80 year old that gets an iphone on their grand childs recommendation... The chances the 80 year old will do much beyond answering it when it rings and try to make a call on the odd occasion will be slim. No offence but this would fit the bill for over 80 percent of users on this forum when put into context, it fits my bill and I dont even consider myself an entry level user. Moving on, this is the Kando thread not the Microtech thread. Back to Kando!

Yes well I needed to test if I could force the VCT to click on as its not working, and drive it to gauge the difference. Yet the switchable earth touched ground while I was testing and did a lot more damage than I expected. The stock ECU is fine, just the voltage spike it created rooted the microtech lol

Fixed, I meant compressor.

Being honest, I have seen water cooling an 'optional' core make an ENORMOUS difference to response. I do not know if that was a one off case or if the same can be expected elsewhere though. Yet I think of it this way, the 20g is a good thing... I consider it to stay a good thing in its original form... What you are suggesting is that they have bored the wheel out to allow more airflow.. Its now a different compressor wheel all together, just in the same size and trims. It is not engineered to be that, it is a 'tweaked' version.... Hopefully a good thing. Yet again I think Stao has tested the same thing and found it to suffer in response (bored out the wheel surface area) read the damn thread! However if your Trust items are oil only, maybe give a Kando a shot as they come water cooled.

Come on dude.. Do you really think such ordinary changes to the thing will alter it that much? I whole heartedly believe manufacturers would have adopted these technologies 50 years ago when they became available if they were truly that useful. Read the HG thread, he built some ballbearing turbos then scrapped them because the difference was negligable.

You need to be careful with the bloody thing, its pretty weak electronically. What I did was short the ground on my VCT solenoid which is plugged into the vactory ecu. This caused a 12v spike to the stock ecu which is only earth switchable so the stock ECU spiked just about everything and blew its fuse. When the stock ecu spiked it send a spike down the CAS trigger which the microtech piggyback's onto which fried my injector drivers. I now have spark but no fuel. Microtech were pretty good about it though, should be able to fix it under 200 if I cant fix it myself. I think its likely to be the earth track for the injector drivers so ill just solder a wire in myself (havent opened it yet). Careful not to over voltage any of yours inputs coz they do not like it lol. ROFL imagine an army of microlebs! Shu Microcuz's! (nobody take offence im a big bad dirty wog myself)

Just get the car mechanically sound first, please dont rush back to the tuners and probably avoid driving it while your at it. Ive always found that if I tell a tuner I built something myself or Im running any level of dubious component in the car they will be on the backfoot from the get go. Avoid saying too much, if anything tell them you have a garrett on the car or something. I spent a day a few weeks ago eliminating possible problems with my own car. I ended up removing a busted EGR valve, a broken purge valve, the charcoal can setup, meters of old vacuum lines and a cooler pipe and bov that had been toughing for a while and had worn holes in eachother. This is a car that has been tuned and running for half a decade. Would you believe it ran tonnes better after I fixed all that? Back to basics for you just like it was for me, you will find the problem(S) and once fixed you can get it retuned and be happy as a pig in sh*t.

havent you heard of an off the shelf kit with a drop saw and silicon joiners? lol blew the microtech in my 200 btw sucks to be me

Yeah thats the thing, the HGs are great these days but we have seen they do get hot. Im confident the 20g will give the current good HGs a very good run for their money for spool/power but will definitely handle the heat a lot better. The benefit to the HG is having it bolt up to most of the expensive stuff (manifolds and dumps). GL, I rekon you will have a kick ass setup.

To help us diagnose this, what did you change to cause this effect?

It will be great to see the 20g and a gate hung off the stock manifold, with all due respect I think it will give hypergear a real run for his money. It must be said tho, if you are looking for the simplest street orientated option I would stick to the HG. Being externally gated and proven capable of very high flow I would want the Kando for anything that will do some serious track time. No disrespect to HG but I would say for a hard tuned motor the Kando's will be a little more resilient to EGT.

The TE06 designation is given to a TD06 with TD07 shaft size. It refers to the same unit. I am also confident there are not many variations of the TE's around beyond the TE06H. I do recall an older model mitsubishi of some flavour running a TE06-17C though.. You may find this interesting: http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Turbo-Turbine-Housing-Mitsubishi-TE06H-16cm-ISUZU-TRUCK-/270816830809?pt=AU_Car_Parts_Accessories&hash=item3f0df0e559

Stao - do you still use the adjustable wastegate disc (wastegate controller) on these turbos? Maybe it could be adjusted so he can remove the boost controller and run a stable boost? To be clear about my opinion. Its making more than enough power for 14 pounds, especially through an AWD stagea. This turbo is tried and tested for how much boost it will run and how it will drop off. You can fudge the numbers but you CANNOT fudge the boost that it runs. Piss that boost tee off and make sure you dont have any problems with the car, maybe Stao can advise you any adjustment methods you could use to mediate the problem. Definitely a +1 for the turbo itself isnt the problem.

Yeah pretty much that. I would say $1000 is the most common price you will get quoted, with $600 being one of the cheaper or 'better value'. Ultimately I would pay $1200 for a tune being confident it would be a stout tune. I think Dart quoted me that much, but couldnt impress me on his knowledge, whereas insight motorsport quoted similar too but I believe Scott possesed the knowledge to get the results I wanted. If going to spend big bucks on a quality tune, make sure it is a well sorted setup before you go wasting money trying to tune it. For example, I currently run a basic SR setup with a 2860 and a microtech, I doubt I will want to pay over $600 to tune it... Its nothing exotic.

To clarify the hose connections on the solenoid needed to point skyward.

Ohh la la, look at that. Now I am confident you will be a happy chappy Lets see you crank some boost through it hey hey hey hey

So the issue seems to have been coilpacks? Would be good to get it out there.. I was thinking of getting a set for my SR

Cool! What fuel?