GTScotT

Pretty much this. Mitsubishi sell all their tooling once it passes its very premature useby date. Means you get a lot of OEM quality bits around. The box says made in Taiwan assembled in Japan. Yet I have pretty much established the whole operation is based in Taiwan. The QA process seems to be good, out of a very long trail of successful products there are only a handful of failures. From what I have seen warranty has never been an issue either.

Anyone see batteries post in the dyno thread? E85, 340kw, 17psi, full boost before 4000, 200kw @ 4000...... Makes me wanna put one on a smaller motor now.

In this case do not drive as I have described LOL

You must not drive very hard.. Sitting at stanwell tops ive seen my turbos and cast manifolds glow far and beyond the colour red. Man up! LOL

+1 injectors are too small and you should probably shoot for 400kw.

The simple answer is, the BOVs re circulate air on low throttle and idle areas (they are open). The ECU is tuned to run well while this is taking place. Block the recirc pipe and the car will run like ass because the system has a big airleak. It runs fine when you boost it because the boost pushes the BOVs closed and you have a sealed system again. Hook it all back up or get proper aftermarket choof choof BOVs so you can get teh ladies.

+1 you have a cam problem. I would expect the ceiling to be over 300kw.

I would expect peak torque to be a little higher in the rev range but the transient area to be a little better to compensate (think linear inline 6 effect). Now I want to see a 7064 on an SR, might just have to get one LOL

Hey Guys, Parting out my former JZR33 build. For sale is my 1JZGTTE which had 93ks recorded when pulled from the donor. The motor comes with the full UN CUT harness which patches into the Nissan body harness VERY easily. It is a single piece harness and VERY easy to work with. It will come with ALL accessories including the factory twin turbos and a quality single high mount manifold, good for changing later on or from the get go. Comes with the pumps belts ETC ETC all the jazz mate, just bolt it in and get yourself a gearbox. Hook up an exhaust to the stock dump pipe, make your cooler pipes fit up and your off and racing. Comes with custom Nissan mounts, the motor WILL bolt onto a nissan cross member. The mounts are made on an S14 member, you may need to run the S14 member if changing bodies. Measurements did also meet my R33 though. Comes with a MINES tuned ECU. It is map sensor based too, so the ecu is good for the power rating and the rest is history. This should all plug in on the factory twins, come on song at 2000rpm and make 250 Killerwasps with its eyes closed. Hows them apples? THIS IS THE MANUAL VERSION, no issues with not plugging it up to an auto or vice versa. You will get both the front engine sump (for nissan use) or mid engine sump if you wanna put it back in a Supra etc. FYI 250kw 1700kg auto Soarers are a formidable threat when it comes to the drags, these motors deal out the torque! The sump is not bolted down at the moment so the buyer gets to have a GOOD inspection before buying, perfect nik. Want: $1500 FIRM. For $1500 you get: - motor - all accessories - flywheel - turbos - manifolds - full harness - MINES ecu - single manifold - front engine sump AND mid engine sump - NISSAN engine mounts Come and get it.

Dropping the price to $350, wants a new home.. All the kit there, no bits missing etc. Thanks,

I wonder if we can coax Kando Dynamic to get the GTR style cast's so we can see some epic T517Z and T618Z action on the GTR. They have the cores on shelf already.

You mean the td06h or the td06? IMHO the T67 hits the spot as is, id use the H on a rotor or stroker but not a pissy sub 3L motor.

Pics?

I would seriously try the ATR43 G3 on a RB30/25DET. I rekon it might out do the 3076. Its actually a slightly bigger turbo but i think the 3L bottom end will make the difference between them pretty much void.

This. The RB's are good at getting respectable numbers, yet 750hp is a little far and beyond from the term 'respectable' - more so phenominal. The 2JZ is a better platform for that kind of power out of the box, as the others have said its more or less a developement thing.. You will need to sink a LOT of money into a motor for that sort of power and YES a V8 will do it a lot cheaper. A 1JZ with a GT4092R will do it 'unopened', a quick run down on prices as a benchmark: 5k on turbo, manifold, gates, lines, gaskets, bits n bobs JUST to fit the working turbo to the motor 5k on management, ecu, injectors, sensors, 2 fuel pumps, lines, tuning 5k on engine perpherials, cams, belts, intake manifold, balancer, pulleys, etc 4k on an intercooler and exhaust 2k on a clutch that can hold that power The 2JZ and V160 gearbox will set you back over 5 grand on its own. As a rule of thumb, the respectable threshhold of all setups probably stops around the 500HP mark. After that you will need a 3.5" exhaust, 2k intercooler, two fuel pumps, excellent management and a VERY strong motor. Maybe rethink the power your chasing and go from there. A well sorted 500HP Escort will piss out 10s FYI 500hp is also pushing it for the RB, again think JZ or V8. GL

This might sound absolutely ridiculous and outrageous.... But here goes; How about a second hand set of throttles for a pittence instead of a whopping dollar value on an aftermarket setup? Crazy I know... But if your certain your throttle setup is the problem, why not have your stab in the dark at a couple of hundred $ instead of a couple of thousand $??

That housing wouldnt be the best thing for flow i guess, but itd work. However, I definitely rekon itd be a piece of piss to hang the gate off one of those tubular jobs. Might be worth doing. Infact if I decide to go back to a TD based turbo on my SR im going to do exactly that with one of those cheap tubulars.

As stated turbos are completely interchangeable in the rear... Just bolt your existing kit back onto it or buy the dump pipe to suit your car (R32) not to suit your turbo. Just wanted to further clarify.

Damn beat me to it! http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=345095&view=findpost&p=5748802

Hey mate, Can you PM me the offsets? Thanks,

DId you change anything except the engine block? If you simply bolted in the replacement motor, maybe the replacement is from a manual car, and the throttle body sensor does not tell your ECU to kick down... Something simple like that. Please provide more info into what you have changed. Are you in South Africa?

Yep, could definitely ramp a little harder for a GTRS. I wonder if that has anything to do with the injectors and the 14psi. Might want to run something like 18 through the midrange

If your making 240 out of it then you wont benefit from changing the injectors (maybe get 15kw up top). The plenum is a bad move unless you are moving a LOT of air. We generally see 350kw setups benefit from the forward plenums but 250ish lose response for minimal power gain (if any).

The boost is the first thing to check, put that back to 8 or 9 as stated. The other thing is to make sure ur VCT is working.. A search will bring up a few threads about testing VCT.

http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Kinugawa-Turbocharger-3-Cover-TD05H-18G-T25-Flange-/280730619491?pt=AU_Car_Parts_Accessories&hash=item415cd94e63 All you need now is your triangle housing! Although I've only ever seen him with TD06 based triangles.... Im sure he could make one or might have one on shelf..