GTScotT

Google says they bolt together and the bottom end is identical. Thus if you look up the CR of the red and compare it to the CR of the silver you will find the difference. You could also do such things as review an FSM to see if the bottom end for red and silver is different in any way. Again CR will tell you the rest.

Ive read in a couple of places that an RB20 has similar character to an SR20, you may want to watch this thread to find out. Correct me if Im wrong but it had been said in this thread that the 6258 is the turbo to have on an SR. Based on what ive seen on a couple of other forums (cobalt and astra) I would probably be willing to go the 6758, there are also videos of a civic on youtube which absolutely hauls with one. The problem with all of those are that they are modern hicomp motors.. Kind of like the talk we had about VQ heads vs RB and the ridiculous flow differences. Im still up in the air about new tech/old tech stuff... There is a good chance your better off leaving a TD on your ride But that civic on youtube is insane.. Instant gutfull of torque and delivery that doesnt just fry the tyres, MMMMMMM

Nah men the t67 is the same rear end as an L2, the H is a 67mm wheel. L2 is 61mm like t67, confusing I know. The T67 is an actual L2 wheel on a td07 shaft to suit the 25g wheel.

Ash, not to step on your toes but I am honestly yet to see a wealth of 330kw -9s. They definitely seem to be an up to 330kw affair but much more of an 'over 300'. There would be a magic recipe to doing it but its not what avg joe should expect when buying them. I'm just throwing it out there... I think their good and that's what id get but id certainly stick to -5s for anyone dreaming of 350+

Yep bottom pic, make sure the stock boost controller is blocked too.

Dude, Ive done SR to death and still don't have an NS account... Viva la SAU

I know man but if your going to optimise the G3 for a high mount you no longer need all that bolt on crap. Either a simple generic 5 bolt rear or a v band external gate, should bring production cost down.

Please comment on this vs a 8cm FOR AN SR.... lol... will the 8cm make it much more responsive or is the extra flow of the 10cm only going to make it better better better?

-5 are what you want, those Nismo's are old tech stuff that will be laggier etc. -5 are good for more like 380rwkw on a good setup, yet -7s and -9s are more 300kw material. Even 400rwkw is not out of the question for -5s IBTL

Once you finish developement on your stock lowmount stuff you should definitely look into a turbo suitable to an off the shelf 6boost manifold and use a Tial MVR gate. This is the staple setup for those T67 setups, if you want to get into non stock position that is the item to beat. You will need to work hard because the price is insane

Thats insane! How do you think it would go on an 8cm housing or you think thats a dud choice? There are also 8cm IW housings that Kando sell.... Man these things just got back on the map for me! Thanks Trent, sorry for so many Qs. P.S. Told you ARTZ!

Hey now dont hurt my feelings! Ridin' Dirtayyy

Excellent news mate, I think most people on here expected it to be a tune related issue. I know I did. 350hp is 262.5kw, very nice result and good to hear its responsive too.

More info PLEASE! I'm prepared to beg. Graph too if you can. Thanks in advance mate

justjap actually sell a loop banjo so you can rip out the hicas and leave the existing pump. thats just what id do... http://www.justjap.com/store/product.php?productid=18184&cat=&page=1 http://www.justjap.com/store/product.php?productid=16560&cat=&page=1

The actual trust 20G for a 1JZ comes in a 12cm job, which is what i based my decision to get one from. They did not appear to be laggy yet I was dubious. For the price of the housing swap I think its worth a go. There is a version with the rear housing uncapped and a 5 or 6 bolt outlet (not the single exit 3 bolt outlet). However from what I have seen the trust IW item was the 3 bolt item (with the WG flapper not direct flow). Ive considered these time and time again... The front housing on that one is the trust spec housing but no idea what rear housing its got. If its 10cm its probably the item to have. I am however even thinking a TD05H-18G would be good (Y) they are not shy on power even in small housings. Get one in a 10cm and your laughing.

HD video or it didnt happen! I wanna see this pissed off whipper snipper!

Im sure its simply a case of he remembers the flow rate more than he does the duty. Big deal...

Kando dynamic do quality line kits for about $100. I would NOT call them ebay crap. Have used them myself in the past. As for your setup, aslong as you have a decent gate (tial mvr or similar) and you replace that cat, you will be cool. A decent 3" cat is only $189, why skimp? Also you did not mention an FMIC, make sure you have one of these too.

Really? I thought 550s were the best injectors for nissans? Are you telling me they wont suit my T88?

Whats the problem mate? Cant be that complicated..

Guys dont forget a 90' 240 is an S13. A little power to weight to help out, unless this has already been considered.

Put a relay on the sun sensor that gets its trigger from the parkers. Parkers are the switch, sun sensor positive wire (whichever really) is the 12v and the output. Ground is ground.

What exhaust manifold have you got? If its a cheapy maybe you can get it cheaply moded to T3 and get a Kando Dynamic T67. Cheap and easy way out, otherwise if its an expensive manifold I would try get another T4 frame turbo.

You are dicking yourself in terms of performance and reliability. Save your money and highflow the stock turbo to run the 12 instead of running dual maps so you can run some magical sauce only to blow the rear wheel off the turbo which might take your motor with it.