GTScotT

These days it seems increasingly hard to beat a hypergear turbo. These SS turbos are nuts. The kando's are actually better for more specific applications, like the T67 for big power like what Simon has shown. The 20g is yet to make its mark with anyone, we are still waiting on results from a couple of members (previously including me). Jap dynos have shown 12cm 20g's to crank close to 300kw and stand up stronger than a 3071.. Now we are working with 10cm housings which really have no restriction in seeing 300kw, so the results should be interesting. Certain well regarded tuners have also shown interest in results from the combo, it should be good. Downside is you need a gate, whereas with HG its all bolt on. I think there will always be tradeoffs between the two, and Stao is limited by the internal gate.. Yet if working on a budget they are both viable, however if stealth fitment is a desired option, the tradeoff (expected to be small) to a HG would be worth it.

I didnt take any actually.. I can take a photo when I go back next week, I still need to change the coolant temp sensors (lucky I still have the S1 intake in the garage). The S1 ecu and S2 coolant sensors dont seem to be compatible, the dash doesnt show a reading and the ecu shuts the motor down when its idling. If you want photos of the coil swap let me know.. Its all soldered in and taped up but I can still try get you an idea.

Would recommend you give it back to the tuner for a little tidy up on the tune. Should cost less than the price of a full tune.

Have now successfully rewired S2 coils into an S1. Process is dead simple. The colour coded wires that plug into the S1 ignitor (from ECU) are identically coloured to those that plug into the S2 coil harness (male plug from ECU). The S2 harness will have a black solid wire (earth) which will not match with its counterpart on the S1, the S1 was black with a yellow trace. It is the middle wire on the 7 pin plug, also identifiable as earth on the ignitor (marked E). Hope this is helpful for anyone else in my position!

Is there any need to sell it? All you want is what you have but turbo right? Turbo it.... Buy a stock 2nd hand turbo setup off an RB25DET, manifold, turbo, lines, pipes, etc. Buy an off the shelf exhaust, off the shelf fmic, get your injectors hiflowed, get the turbo hiflowed, get your ecu remaped, get a fuel pump, enjoy it? It wont NEED a brake upgrade unless you plan on tracking it. It wont need anything really, the RB25DE is about as potent as the DET for a long life moded motor (sub 280kw).

No good mate, all the stockers are no fun. They break easy and cost an arm and a leg to install, so you are likely to be doing the job twice if you get em. -9s are better than -7s, you should buy a pair of -9s off a one of the forum sponsors then get em fitted. You will need an ecu yes, powerfc or nistune are good for your application. Without changing the injectors or AFMs the -9s will get you a tidy 280kw. With injectors and ecu (a lot of money later) you will get 300-330kw.

Thanks, he certainly was switched on when I spoke to him and sounded VERY confident with the current Vipec stuff. Talked about individual cylinder correction rather than 'safe AF's' which tells you something Another thing I have PM'd the keeper about but am waiting on a response is post housing charge temps. I would love to know what sort of charge temps were looking at when running the EFR's at over 2 bar. We need to see if there is a need to move to E85 to get the most out of these units as the stuff just isnt viable for some of us.

haha that doesnt make sense? yours is laggy?

FFS Stao is making himself THE ONLY option for skyline owners these days. As always very very impressive. Congrats lads!

Are you refering to Scott from Insight? I would like to know if he is seen as a good tuner, he talks the talk.

What colour is it? There was report of a lemon at a Sydney dealer. And yes, if you have warranty USE IT. No warranty, see a good mechanic asap.

Can u take the belt cover off and run the motor? I bet you will find your timing belt is frayed.

Mate, I for one can vouch for you. I remember asking you the question once before re Z32 Nistune or patchwire R34 Nistune to a 33. Its publicly available on this forum, I remember you confirmed the R34 was the better option and to proceed with caution against the Z32. No doubt you have done the same here, normally people will give their desired answer when asking a question so I cannot blame you for saying 'you can' and its just fools who hear 'you should'. Back on topic, lets see some SS-1 PU updates!

Is there something you are missing? 8bit are supported... 16bit are not... Its advertised as such and Nistune even offer a service to identify the ECU for you. If you have an 8bit, then I dont see what the problem is? If you have a 16bit then I dont see how your lack of care when purchasing the product is a liability of the vendor. You have not read what was available from the vendor and the vendor has no responsibility to coming up with a solution to it. Simple as that really.

I applaud your efforts and would like to see it running eventually However I dont think you will get much more space conscious than the stock exhaust manifold in terms of 'off the shelf' fitment.. I have an exhaust guy who does SUPREME work and comes to you (dont need to drive the car to a shop), he could fabricate you a manifold to suit ANY situation (remote location for the turbo if you really want). I HIGHLY recommend you pick what turbo you want on the car before you get a manifold OR dump pipe fabricated for that matter. Otherwise you will be wasting money doing the job twice when you realise the factory turbo is a piece of crap. GL!

yep they are bloody fantastic. GL with the sale

Are they both brand new or used? And were they previously used together from new (if used) and do you have proof of this. Do not mismatch units.. Do not even run one used one and one new one even if identical, no no no. Not on an expensive build. If they are both new, and we can confirm the numbers relate to the same part THEN your fine. What I do know is that you will often get a turbo with a catalogue number instead of a part number, I have had a few.

As above, that would probably be the cheapest option.. You could do better than that (with the stock motor) but it would cost more, and rival the cost of a replacement. My recommendation would be to source an RB20DET or RB25DET from the forum and transplant it. It wouldnt be hard and parts would not cost a fortune. Try find someone who is converting their R32 to RB25 using a halfcut and buy all their RB20DET stuff off them

Coz talk on yank forums make them look like gold.

Have had this myself.. Its the gasket between the turbo and manifold. You either reused a warped gasket or its not on tight. Hand in hand with no notable power loss.

Theres nothing stoping a company producing their own parts and using it on their own cars in race events is there? Like no legalities similar to whats stopping production of these things? I am of the firm opinion that BW just needs to get their own 'on road' test team happening and thrash the guts out of the things day in day out. I fully take on board what The Keeper has noted regarding using race teams, HOWEVER truly believe it would be better done themselves. I mean, Nissan didnt build an R35 then give it to Gibson motorsport to report back on.. They built it, beat the porsche, then gave it to Gibson (it was red) who later had to give it to the HOMOSEXUAL ADR lot who crushed it (as with all first test models imported from overseas are - yes they crush the first R35 but not the first faggotdore). Now go tell BW to test it themselves then give it to an aussie so we can also try it out and crush it when were done, F**K. /end rant/

Im not sure if I will agree with SkylineSky, but I will say that BW definitely need to pull their finger out and do some real world testing of their own. Counting on race teams with limited time and often budgets will not get you the results your after. With BW's size they should be able to employ a team and a car or two (beyond what they have of full-race) and sit there testing the things - day in, day out. Honestly, if small time hypergear can produce and test every unit that makes it past design stage you would think BW can match it.... The bloke had a car that he fits the things to and pays to retune them sometimes seemingly weekly. Patent and production legalities and what ever other issues aside, Im sure BW has got the right to build and test their product before they send it out the door. Come on BW..... Commit to your own product..

CONFIRMED: As confirmed by BH_SLO32 The swap is doable and will work fine. Need to trace wiring back to correct cylinders and can eliminate the ignitor box by wiring a harness in and using S2 coils. I will post more detailed info after Saturday once I've done it.

Hey guys, Have seen off the majority of my car and spares, this is my catback from my former 33. This catback is 80mm and has a gutted cat still bolted on. It is all stainless and in GOOD condition, it is also not very heavy for what it is (I suspect some form of alloy rear muffler). Unbelievably, the exhaust is extremely quiet in cabin and not 'hoony' when being driven sensibly, but has a very well defined burble to it. When you open it up you will get a loud HOWL that I have not heard from another Skyline yet. It sounds VERY unique. THIS IS NOT A PHOTO OF MY EXHAUST, but what I have found that is extremely similar: http://a8.sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-snc6/208494_10150140021196966_531916965_6549983_4807821_n.jpg Asking $400, pickup Bankstown. Please ask if you want actual photos of the item and I will get it out from its hiddy hole. Thanks,

Reviving the dead. Having recently sold my S1 33, I am refitting the guys motor from his wrecked S2. Now, I sold the car with no motor but left the intact S1 wiring harness in the car.. The guys car was an S2 and he still has the entire car to work with. Now what I did not sell with the car are coilpacks.. From my reading and understanding, I will simply need to change the S1 'ignitor plug' with the S2 'coil loom plug'. Can anyone correct me if I am wrong as I have not bothered to read and trace back the full engine wirring diagram yet. As a basis of my ability I have done stuff like (and far from limited to) wire redtop SR's into S14s using the S13 ECU and sensors but S14 harness (later nistune and consult capable). So this will be a walk in the park either way, but if someone with some experience can save me (and future readers) some time in saying YES or NO that would be great. Thanks,