GTScotT

Remove the dash and make sure the copper screws at the back of the dash are fastened firm. They are the instruments earth points. From there you will need to trace the tach wire for possible breaks or cuts back to its source. Not sure if it would be from sensor to ECU or ECU to tach, you will need to test yourself.

Double post..

The model number implies its drivers, normally halved. An LT12 can do 12 cylinders batch fire or 6 sequential. Correct me if I'm wrong anyone..

Same with my 200, runs fine.. No stock ecu in place. Just lazy on power, but I cant really blame the microtech haha. Its actually as economic as factory too.. Eh we have our answers, nothing wrong with em for a basic setup.

I think all this talk about 5" cats gets a bit tiresome... 300rwkw, this will do it with no drama: http://www.justjap.com/store/product.php?productid=18066&cat=275&page=1 If your worries about power: http://www.justjap.com/store/product.php?productid=16441&cat=275&page=1 The second one is what you would call a '5" body' cat. The body is about 2 inches bigger in diameter than the flanges. Not sure if it will pass EPA.. Im just over how confusing the cat talk is.............. No offence Ash.

I just spoke to DVS JEZ quickly by sms, the basic outcome was to leave it and be happy. Stuff like the link etc has more features but not really necessary stuff to get a good tune out of it. In my case its an SR with VCT, I will put a window switch into it shortly and it will do everything I need it to..

Im also wondering is there something about them that will hold us back? My new car has a microtech in it already and Im somewhat CBF to replace it.. If there was a major advantage I would do it.. Anyone care to sway me?

+1 take it to a reputable shop and have them give it the once over. Have them run it up on the dyno to make sure its all running safe. Then enjoy what youve got (dont listen to anyone telling you your turbo isnt the greatest one.... just enjoy what it is for now as im sure its great). GL

If you want to jump on the pioneer bandwagon the twin EFR 6258 is said to be promising but I doubt you will beat 2530 response with them. I would be more inclined to go a single EFR like the 8374 or whatever it is.

Just get yourself a G1 and a $180 buck front n dump piece from JJR. Ive got my money on it being a winner.. DO IT.

Yeah no go, different pattern. Justjap actually sell a 1 piece front and fump for $179 which is proven to work very well. Will replace the whole section from turbo to cat. GL

Well there you have it. If I had a skyline all over, it would be running the G1. A good tune on stock injectors and afm with a sturdy FPR and pump would be awesome. Budget killer all over! Thats awesome Stao, thanks for going to the effort to build and test one for us all.

Yeah nah.. The JZ is a sturdier motor and matches as far as tech goes... If not surpasses. First thing that won me in the JZ decision was the oil pump. A stout keyway backed up by a spline adaptor press fit onto the crank and the actual oil pump being driven by the spline. As far as tech goes its a 2 piece runner to plenum with an injector bolt on section (like a spacer off the head). 2 cam sensors, map sensor, big throttle with TPS attached and a 1 piece harness that does not wire into the car. The motor can be unplugged and lifted out, then run on the floor if u want (old v8 style). No VCT but I dont exactly call that leading edge technology and the turbo setup on the JZ is actually pretty trick... They are stout for an OEM item.

Lol need a catch up I see, I havent been on MSN again coz my landlords turned into a prick. Ill be back online soon and well chat. Have acquired an S14 I had a heavy hand in building many years back. As for the said recommendation, what about that old tech TR30R we talked about Dont you want to see that back into production? Old school rally tech at its best (or is this one in the same) Stao, get busy!

SOLD. Hope to see results soon

Have experienced these in a GTR. Actually very comfy and will fool you for the money (I probably wouldnt have bothered repairing the Teins). GL with the sale and BUMP for a saving for near new items.

Oil cooler is the ticket. Please document and update the post once you have it fitted, is good info to keep record of in future.

You need to pick a bigger turbo, and I cant even be bothered to suggest one....... 400kw is a bloody hard number.. And its not of GT30 range.. Please read the over 400kw thread...... Please.

More to this point, the fact it came out that the turbo failed in the first place and was NOT discussed is why theres so much hoo haa right now. Even right now we are still discussing the matter in grey text, further adding fuel to the fire for anyone without the capacity to see beyond face value and further defacing the 'slow built' reputation of this product and its sponsors. Had the cat not been let out of the bag, that is a totally different kettle of fish. Now its known that the thing died and to any 2 digit IQ baring reader they will certainly see a conspiracy brewing. Eh, c'mon.. Just say it already, damage is done.

Oil is the primary cooling system of the motor, I would upgrade this before the radiator and would run quality lubricants and coolant products before bothering to change the stock rad OR adding an oil cooler. As stated already, you really need to consider whats necessary based on what you use the car for.

Sorry I hadnt replied earlier. If you are only hitting 100 deg on the track you dont need to worry so much. An oil cooler will fix that with ease, unless you have one already. There are also antiboil mixes you can buy that will work up to 130 degrees I believe, or a water wetter agent. I would also pose the question, is a GTR rad any thicker? Bare in mind oil is the primary cooling system, not the coolant.

SOLD.

How would that involve some sort of elevated cost? Stao is custom machining wheels from scratch (far more labour intensive than a prefabed CHRA) and his housings are already what I have described.. Same same but different, hell I'd even buy it in a generic CHRA as long as the specs are what ive asked for. GTRS bolton for Garrett T2 price, yes please? Or maybe your just cranky I sold the 33 Dont worry man, JZ is still in the garage with its nissan specific mounts attached.

That car was originally a 2JZ which later got swapped to the RB26 when the car the 26 was originally from hung its gloves up. I believe the 26 was the better developed motor at that point and they had specific goals for it. Later that same car went on to run a 3SGTE (2L 4 pot from an MR2 or Celica) which also muscled the car over 300 and was seen doing so on one of the earlier hioctane DVD's. Moral of the story is at 1000hp its not necessarily which motor you started with but how much development you have invested into it..........................................

Easy man... Theres always the possibility its a sore topic and it took the motor with it (if it was the case)