GTScotT

And what one did he recommend he sell you instead? It was on an RB20, different ballgame. 320hp is still 240rwkw, which is good for a 20.

Sorry missed your prior reply. As a test try crimp your fuel return hose after the FPR. If it works then its your FPR.

This. Had one of these motors at 20+ psi with a disco and could only ever do it at 0.6mm or smaller. SR eater.

Hey guys, Unfortunately have bought a new car that doesnt suit the 20g turbo I recently bought. Will be replacing this with another Kando for the new car, just a slightly smaller item. By my research and planning this turbo is good for UP TO 300rwkw (with the right setup) and to be very very responsive. I anticipate this is the alternative to the fabled HKS 2835. The item you will get: http://www.ebay.com....=item43a84fc4c7 It is in its original packaging, only opened for inspection. $700 posted, firm. Save over $100. Otherwise buy me the TD05H-18g for SR20 also from Kando Dynamic (yes I dont need the 20g anymore because I have a 200sx now). Thanks,

I cant say I agree here.. I think there is a lot to be learnt in tuning and I have personally seen amazing results from NA+T conversions. My favorite was an SR20DE+T in an S13, boosting an OEM S14 T28 at 11psi the car pushed over 180rwkw with balistic torque readings. At the time I and most of my friends ran varieties of SR powered cars and none were capable of matching this one (me and my mate were the only ones with the balls to try at that time). I must say though it was a very hard tune. 7 years on I am about to swap to a 300kw setup on the same motor, we shall see how the 200+k SR likes that! I think weve all seen the arse end of that theory by now. Stao needs to change his name to STOUT to reflect his product. HOO HAA!

Correct! Common ground met. All is fair in love and war. We got to learn and clarify a few things and I got to push a few buttons when all I originally wanted to say was the 6boost collectors are sexy. I blame STATUS, that prick he stated it. Anyone want to have a stab at the projected RWKW of the SR flavor of the month EFR?

I am yet to rubbish your product, and have even stated I would happily own either. If you cannot uphold professionality when representing a company of Full Race's stature perhaps you should reconsider posting on this forum. This is not a US based rice burner forum, there are a lot of intelegent individuals who are going to be willing to have a stab at an overzealous sponsor. Something you will need to accept. I make no mention to design difference, yet as stated by juggernaut1, the 6boost item IS A BETTER FINISH. At the end of the day, even my original comment is based on the FINISH of the collector. Show me perfect seams, show me no need for a 'tidy up' once built, and I will agree the finish of your product is equal to that of the 6boost. Perhaps I would even pay the additional for the better looking exterior and badge. You may also want to review the wording on your website, it reads very 'machine made'. Seeing as you have clarified the overstocked shelves and 'robotic welds', I will retract my opinion on those items (however non accusing). Last thing to note, to make your posts so utterly personal, you really do drag down your companies image and for that I pitty you.

Go sell something man lol EDIT: If you are implying your manifolds are handmade and 6boost are not or that you do not work on supply and demand, perhaps you can UP SELL I mean explain why your website notes ROBITICALLY TIG WELDED and shows shelves of premade manifolds. I have a quote with a 4 week lead time from 6 boost to create the manifold I have asked for, factory position SR (omg so custom).

Look I'm not going to get into a pissing contest as I own neither and hardly care what people opt to spend their money on, yet here is what I base my comment on: One looks hand crafted, the other looks machine made and tidied up with a die grinder. Fact is, 6b are hand made and FR are machine made, cant change that and it is printed in plain text on the FR site. Such is supply and demand. I will agree with all you kiddies that the FR is definitely the better looking product on the outside and I would certainly be happy to own one. And yes 10 years and trip to club med based on two dangerous drive events, so be careful out there guys. As necessary as the law is, those upholding it dont always base their career choice on morals.

AVO or Status?

Regretting now owning an RB powered tank anymore!

Still need this?

LOL good for a laugh anyway. Bastard Seagulls. I once fed one chilli coz it wouldnt f**k off. Pricks.

Best part is the blowing up motors and complex manifolds. Ecotec motors have basic little exhaust manifolds that can be swapped left bank to right. Meaning the outlet will point forward and any Joe Blow exhaust bloke can run the pipes up into a collector. Hell even make a bracket to give it a sturdy mount onto the block. The comp ratio is also fairly average, I believe the VY only ran 9.3:1 or similar. With the right size turbo (larger) with the right management I dont see how doing this could be a problem or hard. I once met a guy who did the manifold mirror and ran a GT30, thing came on boost nearly off the stall and easily maxed out the turbos capability before the motors natural redline. POS cars with POS motors that can actually do some quite scary stuff with a little effort. Moving on from a 5 year old thread however.....

If you will swap for a set of 18x8 Lenso type M, black with red lip, and good nik Kumho's PM me. The offset would be a lot more suitable for your cressy. Also, there is very minor rash on the passenger pair, they are matt black and you will easily make it disappear. Cheers,

However true, 360rwkw out of a twin turbo 2.6L is also a lot of off boost flow under the pedal. In my experience, even the stock turbos on the R32 GTR are a whole lot of play before you need to worry about boosting unnecessarily. A factory turbo RB25, I believe, is a very different ball game. A useless SOD of an item IMHO. Also, the mail order Toshi tunes definitely seem to be quite successful. I mean, its not like Nissan tuned an ecu for every individual car.

Are stock 34 turbos still ceramic? I am not sure.

The RB is pre built with suicidal tendencies in my eyes. The oil related issues they have is just nonsense. Here is my brief decision matrix for the JZ swap based on a 400kw setup: RB- Crank collar needed AM oil pump needed Head restrictors needed External drains desirable Valve springs needed (RB25 in specific) Pistons/rods/overall good quality build needed Gearbox not up to the task JZ Factory capable (oil system, pistons, rods, general make up - no expensive builds needed) Cheaply replaced in failure R154 gearbox IS up to the task Forward facing plenum from stock Probably 20kw shy on peak figures (resolved with 2psi more boost) 1.5JZ (3L conversion) cheaper and less involved than RB30 conversion Conversion cost was similar to sale price of all RB related spares (I do my own fab and build) Two further items for consideration: 1. 1700kg auto Soarer's can be seen running 11s on the factory turbos and factory stall converter. That's no fluke, that's a motor that likes to make some power. 2. I seem to have a knack at squeezing the lemon.. The RB, IMHO, is a lemon that does not like to be squeezed in factory form. And yes, I have said it before. In hind sight the crappy RB does bolt in from factory and Stao's SS series turbos change the game for me entirely. If I had the opportunity again I would have done a quick refresh on the factory motor with some valve springs and run an SS-1. Now its back to SR, let the good times (and good power delivery) roll!

6Boob's are steam pipe brudda cuz. As nice as FullRace items are, 6boob leads the way in collectors. Total sex.

+1 to rubbish ID's is insane.. Top product, I almost planned a build solely around owning a set of those injectors

I like this idea more than the rev210 one TBH. I think as long as that joiner has a larger OD than the ID of the turbo snout your in business! Would work great for any entry level highflows IMHO. Good work.

Drive an SR20 with a T28. They seem to have this awesome balance where they can spool quick or with the control of your right foot be extremely economic and good offboost for drivability. IMHO you want the turbo spooling to some extent, you just dont want it making positive pressure without reason.. The situation is more dynamic than 'less air = less fuel' unfortunately. A very senior CAMS official once told me one of the group A teams let him drive their MA70 supra while it was in development. He told me when they went from the stock turbo to their race item the car became MUCH better to drive and multiple times more economic. I think the trick here is the right turbo.. Having something that has some nice offboost spool but ready to take action with half a hint (50% throttle )

+1 get them both rebuilt. If wheels or housings need to be replaced make sure you replace with the same parts so that both turbs end up identical.

You fool, how is this not direct related to what I was saying LOL. Tyres are a freaking VARIABLE. The thing you are missing is, we are bastardising the concept by saying an 'increase in torque' will create wheel spin. The set variable is the acceleration, the 'increase' we are harping on about is actually the rate of GAIN for torque. IE how steep the curve is on gaining torque. And hey this is what perfect turbo selection is about in my eyes. If you can have a steep curve from a low RPM to a usable RPM aslong as the width is good enough you should be able to get some big time acceleration. If I turned back time to pre JZ for me, I would have kept my crappy RB and put one of these SS turbos on. Problem was I did not have the patience to wait for the development of a successful unit like HG have now. IMHO there arent enough SS1 and SS2 powered skylines out there, and I think those turbos cater almost perfectly for the 250 and 300kw crowd from what we are seeing.

If you have all electrics and everything for the intake side I think your pretty much set. Its a matter of bolting it in, using the NEO intake manifolds and gear then wiring it up.