GTScotT

Hoping you are yet to order the kit.. The KAI is yet to match Pro S results.

I hope you all are not referring to these results..

This.

Would suit someone whos smashed theirs and wants to SAVE money repairing it OR someone whos car just isnt as tidy as mine and also wants to make money. Remember you buy mine, swap your motor/box/brakes and part yours out for quite possibly more than your outlay on mine. No way there isnt 2k worth of bits on even a smashed shell, I just dont have the time, space or heart to wreck mine.

Then why not buy a brand name catback instead of just a muffler? I highly doubt you will be able to save money having a workshop make the pipes for you.. Unless you plan to make one yourself.. In which case I still say get over it and buy a second hand one to save the cash lol.. I know every jap catback I've owned was uber nice.

Correct me if I'm wrong, but wouldnt heat (over time) work harden the metal therefore increasing spring tension? Or do you figure the fact its constantly made to move (while heated) it would more likely fatigue and soften the metal? Actually HG's wastegate controller is now built into the housing.. It has an alen key adjustment that reduces flapper surface area to make them hold more boost up top. You will need to speak to Stao about adjusting this OR you can leave it alone until you put a tap on it and turn the boost up.. Which is what I would do.. Stop thrashing a car thats not tuned lol

Man that would work well on evo's lol. Their actuator sits in quite the position. Any ideas where to buy random springs? lol, cant wait to toy with some actuators now!

Am I missing something? I have not seen any RB26 results to date, other than a car launching on youtube.

First photo, taken just before the motor was stripped (thus being in the backyard not the front). Has sat around for a while since but otherwise same condition bar a wash and wax. Rims NOT included, but ill sort something to come with it.

Hey guys, Have had the opportunity to buy back a car a built many years ago for less than half its value, so am folding up the JZR33 project. Car is a 93 GTS-T, gunmetal in colour, manual, 138ks, IMMACULATE interior and VERY GOOD CONDITION exterior. M spec front bar, S1 and S2 wing supplied, east bear side skirts. Not repairable write off, not defected, clear title, etc. What its missing: Long motor Coilpacks Fuel rail/injectors AC pump Alternator Exhaust manifold/turbo/full exhaust Gearbox/mount/crossmember/fork/speedo drive/reverse switch Brake calipers/rotors/softlines WHAT IS NOT MENTIONED IS ON/IN THE CAR. Pics to come, it is very tidy and will not disapoint. Price is $2000, very firm. Thanks,

Report all found!

Disco, could you give me your opinion on 8cm to 10cm turbine housing with a 1:1 increase in CR? On an SR. Am thinking would possibly make for a better driving car than not.

Sorry dude!! Forgot it was you, kekeke

STOP. Hammer time!

Yeah mate, T67 is 300kw all day long. Arthur, to publicly clarify the TD06SL2 20g is a 300kw item on SR's and Evo's. I'm sure thats on E85 and well sorted motors, but I'm not talking about hens teeth to find. NS.com and evolutionoz both have plenty of testament in the way of dyno sheets. Stop doubting your purchase! LOL

SS-2!!!!!! I don't think many people have the flash options in Syd.. The dude who bought the prototype SS (now production SS-2) got tuned in Advan performance center and I rekon a quick read and PM will tell you what you want without waiting.

Think pre hype era, when a modified GTR was very much jap territory. Then think big twin kits... What was available back then? Some pretty ordinary garrett stuff and the ageless TD range.

Awesome. I might 'boost it till it blows' with mine and see what comes about. Its been making 200odd @ 14pound since I built it in 03ish so it will be interesting to see how it likes more lol. Having a 4 pot again reopens my interest for the EFR, cant wait to see yours in action! Also super keen to watch Beer Baron pioneer the SAU EFR stage!

Is your new turbo seized or does it spin easy? I once had this problem when the turbo could not spin easy. Also, make sure your compressor housing is not leaking vacuum. The housing has an o-ring where it meets the backing plate. GL, makasi.

The answer is in the last 20 pages of this thread or in the RB25 dyno thread. Just have a quick read. It's a VERY promising looking unit. EDIT: found it in 3 seconds flat. http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/topic/55845-rb25-turbo-upgrade-all-dyno-results/page__view__findpost__p__5692653 3750 RPM for 20 pounds. Talk about a bullet.

I'm not going to read the entire thread, and will agree with the two above that it is case by case. I will make ONE comment, and try to stick to it being one. It is my firm opinion that leaner tuning makes for bigger numbers, and richer tuning makes for faster cars. I do not mean this in absolutes, I mean that there is a set boundary of what works for every setup, the leaner end of the spectrum will give you nice numbers and a very happy sounding tune while the richer end of the spread may feel to have a shorter powerband yet will generally pummel through the gears instead of holding onto the revs (accepting that gear/rpm = exact speed). I guess that's just my opinion though. Jez I will need to send you another email BTW! You may be disapointed, may not haha.

I'll post photos of mine soon. And yep, it is small LOL. Lucky I wasnt dreaming of an enlargement method using a 'pop my hood check out my highmount' method.

Is your motor built? If not, what is your expectation for things breaking down? Including your said manifold. I may be running an SR soon and am out of touch with their capabilities.

And inducer/exducer refer to the smallest and largest diameters of the wheel in question respectively. Irrespective of compressor or turbine. Just to clarify.

Definitely need to know what turbo youve got before you can select a housing. You may find replacing the housing will fall short in benefit to replacing the whole turbo. Can you please state what your aim of changing the housing is so we can comment on a better solution if possible? Also, not knowing your turbos actual spec gives me the impression it may be a cheaply made thing and you could be blowing hard earned dollars in the wrong way. There are many options around the $1k mark these days that will easily replace what you have and possibly exceed your aims for the change.. Chances are buying a garrett housing OR moddifying another one to suit your 'hybrid' turbo will cost similar money and wont necessarily hold the gains you seek.