GTScotT

I would recommend some heat wrap to prolong the CV boots life at the minimum.. I would want to think about something more serious heat wise if you are planning on doing some serious driving (more than a weekend project etc). Personally I would have opted for a skyward gate, yet am not sure of your constraints up top. Very nice however!

Seat of the pants via harmonics. Also why I am rather picky with exhausts.

Some of the current hypergear stuff use GT28 cast turbine housings. Stao cuts them up, T3s em and adds on the skyline specific rear. Im sure if you ask nicely he could EASILY make one .86, T3, 6 bolt rear and aptly sized for the GTRS turbine before posting it out to you for an attractive figure. Come on disco, be a go getter! Imagine it works out well.. It would start a frenzy of people buying garrett CHRA's an moded HG housings! Cut cost GTRS!

That could get confusing LOL, but I like the idea!

hey mate, clear some PMs and drop me one. thanks,

Quote on shipping to Syd? How long did it run with the knock?

How much shipped to 2212? PM me if your willing to ship.

PM Sent re motor.

What I posted were search results for the RB25 dyno thread. I searched for all the common handles for a 35R and gave you every result. Only one met/exceeded your faith. I am not sure if I have misconstrued my opinion of the 35R vs T67.. I will clarify, I do know and believe the 35R is a bigger turbo which will make bigger numbers, yet also believe the current proofings for the T67 show it to be a very good budget oriented replacement. The difference in price near pays for the 6 boost alone, leaving you a 'handful' of ponies short with better spool IMHO.

The spec sheet inside states it is the TD06SL2, so its the same spec CHRA is Simon's T67. The difference is its compressor housing. It uses the Trust 3" .60ar housing made for the 20g range turbos which has been modified to fit including the surge slot. I would say it will possibly spool a fraction sooner BUT need a PSI or two more to make the same numbers. I would not have any confidence issues in buying it considering it is a trust spec housing on the thing. HOWEVER, you should also note that the original turbo sold by trust used the 4" .70ar housing like whats on Simon's car. At the end of the day, if its a bag of shit Kando sells the bloody correct housing for about $100, how can you go wrong?

A kando housing can be had under 200 delivered, someone could have a real cut cost 3037 here!

I disagree that a 35R is a 350-370kw item. Thats talking a built motor and setup designed to stretch the absolute limits of the thing. Look here: http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/index.php?app=core&module=search&do=search&fromMainBar=1 I did not doctor the results, its the forum itself. Lots of simple setups and lots of ordinary results. Then there is this: http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/index.php?app=core&module=search&do=search&fromMainBar=1 Considering the effort Noel (Fineline) put in and the story behind his E85 powered 400kw, I would not think the 35R the staple item for that sort of power. T67 seems to exceed the 300kw marker quite easily, and Simon is only using a 50/50 mix for his E85, so I would say it is certainly a contender for the 30 AND 35Rs place in the 'simpler' side of the market. Yet again I hate myself. Another twist in the road means my newly arrived 20g has an uncertain future! Sorry if I am letting any readers down looking forward to my results.. I'll see what changes for me in the near future.

LOL, I didnt look but yeah thats pretty insane.. Must be compensating for the price. Thats usually how average ebay sellers make stuff look more attractive on the surface Absolutely do not want to start a shitfight, but did you consider a Kando 10cm housing? Had I gone Garrett I would have definitely used that housing.. its like $160 delivered! T3 and Vband out.. For that money it might be worth your trying (I know you fab your own stuff). http://cgi.ebay.com.au/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=290564386512&ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT

Zoom zoom bitch!

No disrespect to you, but an overview of your posts shows some lack of understanding to a few key areas.. For starters, you can only run a twin scroll manifold with a twin scroll turbo. You could not run it on the T67. Next in line the T67 is pushing results that exceeds the average 35R's results. The average 35R is a mid 300kw mark and users have struggled to safely make 400kw out of them on built 3L motors with E85. One user went through 4 before he gave up. The T67 is definitely a BIG contender for the 35Rs place in the game. Simon's results exceed the average 35R of similar spec on this website and new results filtering through seem to be of the same thoroughbred nature. The winning combo seems to be the Freddy and 6boob + tial MVR w/T67. On 98 ron expect sub 350 and response closer to a 30R rather than a 35R (remember sub 350 is very much average 35R territory). I just hope you are not reading US forums with people making 700whp from 35Rs, that is just nonsense. As for your ask, you are really talking about a bigger turbo. You want a 400kw pump fuel capable turbo, and should look for something bigger than what you have. You are also wanting this from a motor that will not reliably hold together at that level. When your ordinary motor pops, you will be faced with the reality of a wasted big time setup, or an expensive build. I also want to note that 375rwkw is also the limit of an affordable quality intercooler and your 3.5" exhaust. Think 4" GTR sized cooler (also think $2k new) and think 4" exhaust, if you want to make the job easier. E85 changes the game, but even I know the only places in Sydney are a United in Mascot and a caltex Flex job in Moorebank. I long accepted that reality was sub 350, with a quality fuel pump and quality off the shelf AFFORDABLE parts. I long forgot the dream of 400kws of fuel pump, intercoolers, built motors, exhausts etc. Simon should be seen as the staple limit of acceptable before things get well and truly out of hand, and no offence to Simon intended, but he is really pushing the boundaries of the motors safety. If you want that sort of power, you are in the wrong thread. Look at the GTX + EFR threads and Fineline's build thread (failed 400kw 35R build turned 3788 success). You really want something T04Z (now showing obsolete to 3788), GTX35 or EFR 7670. GL dude. P.S. to all Kando subscribed. Ordered my TD06SL2 20g on Friday arvo, found the EMS delivery slip at home today! Talk about SERVICE! Also have confirmed the said 20g item uses the TRUST 3" compressor cover, WOOT.

Putting things into perspective.. L2 wheel = T67 with TD07 shaft diameter = same shit, different smell. Ill put it down to my logic. SR20 w/TD06SL2 20G 8cm makes very respectable numbers and response. Simon has proven the same rear wheel with a tiny 10cm housing can flow substantial numbers, in his own words he has maxed his 25G (note 78mm) compressor. His exhaust side is not choking nor holding him back. Move the said turbo from the SR to the RB and you can only spool faster, right? Go up from an 8cm housing to a 10cm housing and you may just accommodate for that 25% displacement and utilise the 20g across most of your power band. The 10cm is still a small .73AR housing, so I anticipate it will not hinder its character from what the 8cm had to offer. Honestly, SR L2 20g plots well against a 3076R RB25 IMHO. How can I not find it an attractive offer to utilise the same on a bigger motor? Anyway, I should have my TD06SL2 20g by the end of the week, as should another member who I am not sure if hes advertised it yet. So we shall see just what the hype is about, or perhaps not. Hey its anybodies game!

Boost does have an effect on dynamic compression, yet its probably not what I would call a real world variable (as noone would really run much beyond 30s on a mild setup). The more important thing to note is heat, generally compressing air is also superheating it. More boost is higher pressure and more heat. Also, it is generally accepted that high boost levels are pushing the boundaries of the compressors map in which would also look to create excess heat. Say were talking a turbo built on EFR like technology, I would be happy to run it to say 30psi on a factory motor provided it was efficient at that level and did not exceed the motors given threshold (call it 280kw for the RB).

Good work scotty, thats a great result. The EMU is not as bad an ecu as you may think, JZ guys use them for anything sub insane. Specifically, despite the fact your motor outflows an RB to hell and back, to see the turbo standing up (where I expect 4k to be) and making over 200kw of midrange, with a final output of roughly 300 I have to say WIN. 200kw @ 4k rpm and 300kw peak is the best of both worlds as far as RB25's go (again knowing that you dont have one), its like having a GTRS and a 3037 (3076R) all in one. Good work champ.

Sarge, am happy the push to HG has worked out so well for you. Can you clarify what turbo it was again?

Generally a cat with 3inch flanges will have a 4 or 5 inch body.. You will not see many cats that are simply in a pipe section, that do not flare out.

For sub 300 you want the TD06SL2 20g. The T67 is an over 300 turbo on 98 ron.

The question is... How disapointed will you be if you pay Trent to fix the said issues and you find it is hardly any better? While I dont doubt his knowledge and opinion, I also know you should never expect too much. I have a feeling the amendments will make for an all round better car but would only hope that a good improvement in response is found, rather than expecting one.. As stated AVO should be willing to tacklw this for you free of charge.

PM me if you want to sell that housing. Was that 2.3 seconds worth?

I think 300kw of RB20 is about 5000+RPM of full boost. For turbo selection on the power, look at an RB25 and make a deduction. I think for up to 280ish KW the deduction would be 20kw, with with over I think more like 30-40. A kando T67 would do 5500-9000RPM of 300kw RB20, but that is an expensive RB20. You could probably bring it on before 5 with a good setup. Be aware we are talking some serious head work. Well GL anyway. If it were me I would either size up or aim lower. I know I enjoyed the RB20 long ago, but that was at a far lower (read realistic) output.

Thats a completely different can of worms. Im going to go there again and say, maybe you should send your turbo to Hypergear. You already have the right bearing cartridge, turbine and shaft. He can redo the cold side for you to a proper 3071 spec and make you a skyline specific rear housing that will actually work. Hey I bet you can do it cheaper than buying a kando! And you wont need to consider changing anything that isnt already there. Ask him to make the new front cover the same dimensions as your current one! Just send PM dude.