GTScotT

Yeah, it is true 1Js all have tiny ports.. But each to their own, we can all hold our own opinions to what works best etc. They are not power shy, so I do not think it will change much when considering what the said turbo is capable of. The other comments regarding the point of the GTX range I cannot argue with.. Just like in the EFR thread, BB cores were debated as a marketing ploy, I feel the same for the GTX range and cannot believe the hype people on this forum are creating by recommending GTX3071s left right and centre. Again it is an each to their own scenario in my eyes, I do not find the GTX range attractive yet Im sure someone does.. Which will end up being the pioneer for the turbos future rep. I dont think its fair to recommend such an item without any experience with it, and I would regret having done so myself in the past. Anyway.. Back to exploring Jakarta.

For those interested, I found a GTX3076 result on toymods forum. The result was again a very lazy looking 3076... Power building very progressively and making SFA around the 4k mark, with a final result of around 300rwkw from a VVTI 1JZ. Seen better results of .63 35Rs to be honest.. On non VVTI motors. Not keen.

TD06SL2-20G with 8cm housing is a known good thing on an RB20. Roy has used a TD06-20G to make 260rwkw. The SL2 wheel is cropped variant so is a little lighter and produces a little more power. Roy noted earlier than he saw little difference between a couple of variants yet I believe there could have been more variables to consider. SR20s generally run an 8cm SL2 20G and produce good results. While I think an SR is a better flowing motor than an RB (especially a 20), I think the RB20 will still produce a good result for the said option. 8cm housings can be had with both 3 bolt trust style housings OR silvia specific T518Z housings. Be it myself I would be buying a TD05H-18G with T518Z housing, internal gate and running a T3 to T2 adapter on the RB20 with a custom dump pipe. I think that would give 240rwkw with some real rip.

It will work. Obviously having it 'aerodynamically' positioned off the housing would work better, but this will work.

The TD06H and 12cm combo would not be an all out performer in terms of response.. I have emailed Kando advising them I recommend an open-rear internal gate T3 10cm rear housing for their turbos. He seemed to like the idea, but I would not recommend you hold your breath.

AS POSTED IN THE ALTERNATE TD06 THREAD: A quick post to simplify the understanding of TD06 variations.. I now fully understand the options and variations, so if anyone would like further clarification please just ask. I will copy paste the response from Eiji Takada himself (Kando Dynamic). "Hi, Sorry for missing this mail. TD06SL2-20G with 10cm turbine housing is perfect for 2.2~2.8L engine. TD06SL2 and TD06H turbine wheel is based on MHI TD06 size with different wheel spec. Basicly STD TD06 < TD06SL2 ( 11 blade) < TD06H (12 blade) This 11 blade TD06SL2 wheel is common used on Greddy TD06SL2-20G turbo perfect for drift as it spools very fast. TD06SL2 turbine wheel comes with same wheel as T67 turbine wheel, but the shaft diameter is different. T67 shaft is based on MHI TD07 shaft. But TD06SL2 is based on TD05/TD06 shaft. As to the TD06SH wheel, that is called by Trust, Actually it should be “TE06H” turbine wheel on MHI’s product line. This TE06H turbine wheel comes with same wheel as TD06H, But shaft is different as TE06H is based on TD07 size. TD06H is based on TD05/TD06 shaft as the relation between TD06SL2 vs T67 as I just mentioned above.. Regards Eiji Takada" I know find this and the kando dynamic thread to be the definitive resource for TD06 information.

A quick post to simplify the understanding of TD06 variations.. I now fully understand the options and variations, so if anyone would like further clarification please just ask. I will copy paste the response from Eiji Takada himself (Kando Dynamic). "Hi, Sorry for missing this mail. TD06SL2-20G with 10cm turbine housing is perfect for 2.2~2.8L engine. TD06SL2 and TD06H turbine wheel is based on MHI TD06 size with different wheel spec. Basicly STD TD06 < TD06SL2 ( 11 blade) < TD06H (12 blade) This 11 blade TD06SL2 wheel is common used on Greddy TD06SL2-20G turbo perfect for drift as it spools very fast. TD06SL2 turbine wheel comes with same wheel as T67 turbine wheel, but the shaft diameter is different. T67 shaft is based on MHI TD07 shaft. But TD06SL2 is based on TD05/TD06 shaft. As to the TD06SH wheel, that is called by Trust, Actually it should be “TE06H” turbine wheel on MHI’s product line. This TE06H turbine wheel comes with same wheel as TD06H, But shaft is different as TE06H is based on TD07 size. TD06H is based on TD05/TD06 shaft as the relation between TD06SL2 vs T67 as I just mentioned above.. Regards Eiji Takada" I know find this and the kando dynamic thread to be the definitive resource for TD06 information.

It's very hard to tell you what it is without knowing the part number. If you could look at the tag and try and find a number that would resembles '700177-0010' we could then tell you what turbo it is. It is likely to be the HKS cropped version of the 3071 as mentioned above, however it could be a number of variants which would change its suitable application.. Some were made for single use, others were made for twin kits like on GTR's. Please post the part number that is similar to what I have posted above.

+1 to above. I certainly don't see any magic in the RB26. A good single turbo on the NEO with the aid of VCT will make for a good setup.

A done bearing is normally caused by an oil related or stress related issue. Oil related would mean it was starved of oil or was poorly serviced.Stress related is not as simple as it sounds.. It does not mean ringing the neck out of the motor, it more so means stress directly on the bearing itself. That could be caused by ping/detonation, piston contact with valves (rarer case but something not to be missed if you do have a piston meet a valve) or abuse. By abuse, I particular mean starting the motor and giving it too much stick before its at operating temperature. A brief summary of my experiences... I have never owned a motor that blew anything more than a head gasket. I have never owned a motor for less than 40,000km and I have never owned a motor that did not see its redline daily nor for less time than it sat idle at the lights. I NEVER give my car any sort of 'stick' within the first 5 to 10 minutes of driving. My last 2 cars were thrashed the most, both of them are still running with the new owners and both have high KMs on the factory bottom ends. Every friend or acquaintance I know who has thrashed their car from start up, has had it bite them in the bum sooner or later. We are currently repairing my own brothers 911 motor at a cost of over 20 grand due to his sheer lack of care for my advice. Turn the key and drive it unreasonably before its truly at a reasonable operating temp and you WILL run into problems sooner or later. My brother thought he could get away with it because he always owned newer cars, now either hes owned this car long enough, the previous owner also did the same thing, or hes just simply got the kind of motor that couldn't take that kind of abuse for that long, but I'm sure he will remember the debt. Provided that the only damage done is to the bearing itself, then yes. It really depends how much damage has been done.. Sometimes you will have a bearing look like its lost its first layer or two when it makes the noise, others will start to knock and utterly destroy themselves soon after. What that means is, the bearing does not evaporate to the magical land or none.. It will grind away into metalic dust and contaminate your oil.. Your oil, being the life blood of the engine, will carry the said contaminants throughout the motor and will possibly damage other aspects of it in the long run.

What ECU does Mr DVS recommend for a 1JZ motor and does he tune these motors? I like the feedback!

Ever had a workshop build you a car instead of build one yourself? lol Every small part adds up and every dollar counts. How much is a gearbox to cope with that much power, 10k? Or am I kidding myself and its probably more... How bout the clutch, drive shafts, diffs.. Put a hole in 20k yet? How bout your motor, you will put a hole in 10k on parts alone to build a 500rwkw motor, call it another 10 on a decent head setup right? I mean were talking round figures once you add up all the loose ends... You don't reuse bolts on a big build motor you realize.. Then what, you gonna use stock manifods? Or fork some good coin on something like 6boost items. Had a read of the recent 6boob manifold install thread for a GTR? All the niggly little problems that the guy went through, imagine paying a mechanic to do that for you.. I haven't even scratched the surface.. Building big cars requires bigger wallets. Even building a basic bolt on car cost a small fortune, I think one thing this website needs is a basic price index. Anyway, GL to OP.

Try sexspecmotorsports forums.. Peeps on this forum generally favor diverting attention rather than attracting it. Cool plates though, GL.

LOL well that only has one control wire from the ECU, so why not bypass your problem without trying to trace it back At the end of the day running a new wire to it will tell you if the problem is in the wiring or not, however I would be dubious to expect otherwise after you stated it came up after the manual conversion. GL

Can you confirm what your referring to by NVCS so there aren't any mistakes in understanding?

This.

Which isnt something you would want to begin with lol. I think power and combustion temperatures would be relevant to eachother, so I would say that they are somewhat power dependent. I'll stand by it.. The factory make up is fine for the suggested setup and will save a packet.

Is there a need in an expensive build for a GTRS RB25? 250rwkw? I highly doubt forged pistons will do anything for the longevity of the motor at that power.. Again, keep it simple.. Save your cash, enjoy what you have. From memory I was quoted $500 to drop off and pick up my long motor to a builder. That encompassed a tear down, clear up and refresh of a working (not damaged) motor. Included was rebalancing the crank and fitting a crank collar I supplied. This is exactly what I'd do in your case, then get a factory gasket and hose kit for it and put it in the car.

For me the 'cut spark' method has never failed. Am not sure why more people don't have the same faith.. I think it was particularly clever of the OP and thought it showed he had a decent understanding of what he was doing. Meh.

Lol same road I went down.. Except I did not confirm my head was rooted before I jumped to the conclusion.. If you find it still has a problem after you put the head back on, simply try run a section of pipe in place of your cooler.... Obviously avoid driving in a manner that would need the aid of the cooler when your testing it...... LOL

I used a kit similar to this: http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Turbo-Oil-Water-Line-RB25DET-Garrett-GT30R-GT35R-BB-/380343185542?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item588e387086 Alternatively you can take samples down to your local Pirtek, then buy 3 barbs and a rung of high temp water hose. You only need 3 barbs as I'm sure you found the one at the back of the head already has a hose on it. I've personally used this method on about 4 other setups and am yet to have a problem.. Just be careful what grade of hose you buy and consider getting some fire proof sheath for where it runs past the exhaust housing. GL

Its also not meant to be overly tight.. Remember an oil filter goes in the same place.. That is meant to hit the bottom and go some fractions of a turn more... Not using force to tighten it up, which might be what rooted the seals on your current one (dunno if you mean they came stuffed or you stuffed them putting it on). Anyway, you would want both seals back on it if it had 2 to begin with.. Remember its probably a cheaply made item. GL

The step down to 2.5" for the gutted stocker would hinder it more than a fairly run of the mill 3" cat. Obviously you realise no cat is going to flow better than A CAT of any type.. Yet there are nonsense legalities and heavy fines for running no cat.. And making it hard to pick (like putting a 3" pipe into the stocker) is a lot of work for reasonably small gains.. It has been covered, but I think this more than covers it for future and ease of searching. Just get a decent cat, save the hassle. Justjap sell decent highflow items for under $200. GL

Again, I am going to recommend you simply whack that motor in and get going with it. Especially considering you have your heart set a 2.5L... And a 25 with GTRS, I wouldnt blame you. I see a number of recommendations to go to the DET, but I still feel its a step backwards. The reasons why are, OP is unable to retain his existing injection setup and it is a lower comp motor. Yes the plus side is VCT.. But he already has an adequate setup management wise. A tunable ecu, GTR injectors, bolt on manifolds.. OP, in your 'op' you wanted to use 8.5 CR pistons. I recommend again that you simply put the thing back together and strap it into the car. Its factory make up is more than adequate for your GTRS plan and a simple refresh now will see it last the duration of its remaining life (with the said GTRS). Up to 4c now, I'll stop flogging the dead horse. OH and I still +1 to get an RB30E bottom end, refresh it AS IS and bolt all your crap to that. God it will cost you a case at most and everything else remains the same as I have already recommended.. Just HEAPS more torque. GL

I had all of the above issues plus more on an SR.. I ended up thinking it was a cracked head that only became evident at certain temperatures, bleeding combustion gases into the coolant. What it turned out to be... Was... A low quality intercooler blocking airflow to the engine bay... No shit.