GTScotT

Thats two of us recommending this now!

In my eyes you are heading down the wrong path. A built motor is all well and good but VERY costly and should only be done on a needs basis. The first thing to note is you have the right motor for an easy install into your car. You will not need to change your harness or ECU/injectors and you will be able to simply remap the RB20 ecu to suit. Injectors are cheaper and you wont need to worry about a VCT capable ecu. Cheap and cost effective. I also believe the DE's higher compression will not only match the benefit of VCT but it will make for a better feeling motor all round. I also think it will easily handle the GTRS scope for power. Another member here has 280rwkw out of his unopened DE as im sure many others have also met and exceeded. I do not see the DET is OVERLY more capable. The next thing I have to say is you have the right motor for a cheap and easy RB30 swap. So my advice to you is: slap it all together and get it tuned on the factory built bottom end. When you have had enough of what youve got, build an RB30 bottom end instead of a pissy 25 and mod your R32 Rb25 head to that block. Sell your used GTRS for more than the cost of a 35R and have an ANIMAL. Still utilising your remapped ECU. Do it. Do it now.

Is it possible you can borrow a gauge from a mate to test it? The best place to tee that hose is from your fuel regulator. You either currently have it hooked up to the blow off or the vacuum canister's source... Meaning either the blow off or the vac can could be bleeding some boost and making the guage read wrong. As stated, the most fool proof place to tee it from is your fuel regulator. Tee it there and if you do not see accurate readings try another boost gauge. GL

Used evo turbos go for as little as 300, I bought the UPGRADED titanium version for my last evo for just $450. I do recomend something larger for the astron though.. Something you would expect to be laggy on a 2L 4. With the 'milder' of the cams I run in my Astron 2 my 3037 has full boost almost off the stall (2500), but only makes 150kw..... LOL

IMO you should go for gold. That housing is going to be awesome and your only setback is the old tech compressor. Meaning if its not good rip it off and have a turbo place install a proper GT37 52T compressor and the surge ported cover. Bolt it all back on and WHAMO, highly speculated ultimate option! Hell if you dont like that I'll buy the whole turbo off you!

Once you have it running PM me with a link to your works, I will be interested to compare it to my own. The motors seem to spool turbos very easily and early in the rev range, yet make piss weak power.. It will act like it has a much smaller turbo than it does. GL

Further more, I will bring attention to the fact you will need: A manifold A waste gate Exhaust system Fuel pump setup Intercooler and plumbing Then have you considered management? Or were you going to force the carby? If you do, you will need to use a boosted application carb which will need to be boxed into the intake plumbing so it has equalized pressure OR you will need to have a suck through setup which will have your charge air run through the front of your turbo. Then you need to consider adequate jetting of the carb to accommodate. If you were planning on using Magna injection, make note that the throttle body points the wrong way and your injectors are just big enough for the original motor. So you will need to cut off and move the TB and get a set of bigger injectors. You will also need a proper ECU to run it for you and will be hard pressed to utilise the stock item plus piggy back. The stock item shits itself with a pod filter and exhaust on a magna. Once you realise this and that part of your concoction havent worked as planned, you will start to see things add up. The original plan for mine was a backyard manifold manifold and crossover pipe.. The rest is history.

Want to see photos of MY 2.6 Sigma? Mine originally cost $150, $25k later, I can tell you, its still a piece of shit. HKS 3037 turbo, steam pipe manifolds, enormous cams, special offset pistons, C4 auto, big stall, surge take fuel setup, TR injection and an EMS. Originally we had a shitter with a free C4 and a free VL's turbo. After lots of "its only $500 bucks" here and there, it ended up as it is today. All that work, and I blitzed it with my own hair dressers NX Coupe. The NX had a FACTORY STANDARD SR20DET including 2 inch exhaust, factory airbox and paper filter, 7psi and 120fwkw. The Sigma still sits in my aunts garage, and I refuse to finish it. I leave it to my older (older than you) and much dumber brother. Its his problem now, and I have to continually convince him of not spending more money on it, in a feeble effort to save face to an originally 'good idea'. You can call me a prick if you want, you can also talk about your age like it makes a difference, yet as far as I am concerned I am doing you one hell of a favor in advising you to quit while your ahead. A sigma is not an old falcon with a 4 litre motor. Its not even an old corolla..... Its a bloody sigma, with a magna motor.... It WILL cost you more than 5 grand to build. My turbo NX coupe costed me under 6, and I sold it for 7. Take it as a grain of salt, as I'm sure you will. This is SOLID EXPERIENCED advice.

Have a close look, the compressor is covered in corrosion. Its probably also seized due to the same effect. Allu corro = metalic dust all inside the comp housing. NICE.

Yes, or he can provide you with his updated housing that does not use FNT.. Stao thinks the newer .82 is better than the old with FNT but has not posted results for it.. FNT is fixed nozzle technology. It has been explained a couple of times in this thread already (I know the thread is long). Stao machines nozzles into the turbine housing to direct flow to fixed areas of the turbine wheel. I believe he went from a single nozzle to a 3 nozzle and then to a 5, yet has kept on the 3. This would be rather than one uniform groove leading to the turbine wheel.

Probably a pin hole in that plastic fish tank hose your using.

The fake 3076 implies it is the unit Garrett released in place of the 3037 while HKS held the exclusive rights. Garrett still call the 3037 a 3076 so its easy to get fooled when buying one.. GCG have only recently started labeling the items as "AKA HKS 3037". If you look up the GT30 threads on this forum you will see infinite talk about "Real 3076R" and "Real 3071R". This is exactly what it is talking about.

I suppose you want to use it on an Astron 2... By the looks of that turbo, its rooted, so it will make about the same power any other good turbo will make on an astron 2.... None. Does this forum now have a reputation that you can post photos of a turbo and be told what it is and how good it will be? I can tell you how good a turbo Astron 2 will be, but that turbo is toast.

Definitely convinced its a T04S GT30. 7 Blade compressor, big cover, 10 blade rear, garrett tag even says so.. F'd if I know why theres a GCG 3071 tag on it... If it was it would have a 6 blade compressor and a smaller comp cover.

Neg Neg Neg. Disco is right, yet the actual code on this core is -15, not -5. To reiterate the full code is 700177-5015. As stated I have a 3037 56T at home with the code 700177-5007, and its definitely not a 48 trim lol. The problem I have at the moment is that Arthur is yet to let the cat out of the bag... There is a second RED GCG tag on the CHRA that reads "3071".... Either way, I am confident that it is a 60mm turbine, HOWEVER... Think it is a total cock up considering Arthur has already confirmed the compressor is 7 full blades and Disco has stated the GT series compressors should have 6 full blades.. All signs point to 700177-0015 , GT30 84T Turbine ....., TO4S 56T - as per the old Disco GT30 thread.

+1 Get a photo for accurate advice, then we can recommend the parts needed to change it and where best to buy them. Hopefully its just a silly split dump pipe and a simple justjap belmouth dump for 200 bucks will fix it for you, and all round better performance too.

About 270rwkw, as mentioned many times across the board above this is pushing the long term longevity of the motor. I do not think it is the rods yet rather the overall construction of the motor itself.

Can you also elaborate on your new 2IU upgrade? Potential buyers will want to know what sort of updates have been made for these great results!

what mod was that?

Actually, isnt the T04S compressor 7 blade also whereas the GT37 is 6 blade? I'll need to do some reading of my own now... I am 100% confident that the cartiridge number 70177-5015 is the same as 70177-0015 I know because I have a 3037 core at home with has the same '5' prefix in the same place. Both are australian bought from GCG.

This has got to be the dumbest idea I have ever heard... Mate this is not a personal attack, and I generally respect your posts as a whole... But this is WRONG. DO NOT play games with the motors life blood, RB's are plaigued with oil problems as it is. Why create another?

Next time the sound comes up, try free revving it with the bonnet up. If you can hear it while free revving, try unplug one coilpack or injector at a time, while leaving the other 6 plugged in. If by shutting off a certain cylinder you can make the noise stop, your issue is far more serious than a noisy lifter. More like a stuffed big end bearing. Bad big ends would either be a result of a dud tune (as stated before) or a bad build (considering its not an old motor, and was just rebuilt). As unfortunate as it is, I think this is the most likely scenario, and believe you will find it was most certainly your tune and not how much boost was run that killed the motor. For reference, the tune could depict what sort of boost you could run.. It could be tuned so hard (and wrong for that matter) that it will ping with any more than 15 pounds of boost, OR you could tune it so soft that it will safely run 30 pounds of boost (turbo dependent). Try to work out what your actual problem is before proceeding.

Whiteline sell an S-link kit for the sway bar which would give you some adjustment i believe. Thing is, I dont think the amount you will need to space it will alter much at all. A 10mm drop would do SFA to the spherical ball joints on the links. Just how far out is it do you think?

The VCT is a valuable tool yet would not necessarily be the downer on your build. The right cams and dialing of gears will net you similar gains.

I think its more the change in fuel pressure from the pump than it is the leak, its probably thrown out the tune. Ah well, stock tune goodness!