GTScotT

For the price I would say you can afford to do it twice, thats the honest truth... I thought about it all before, local prices stink and results are becoming more common for the T67.. At least you know what your getting. Kando does an excellent price on the 3037 though, Zeeb you might want to consider it as most people think .82 30 and 35Rs dont feel much worse than stock twins (considering they are comparing a sledgehammer single to some initially linear twins they probably arent wrong). I also think the 3037 with their 10cm rear housing CANNOT be a bad thing.. Its proven to flow and is a good size for response on that particular turbo.. Also costs a fraction of the AUD price on a Garrett housing, which we know arent much chop to begin with. http://cgi.ebay.com....e=STRK:MEWAX:IT http://cgi.ebay.com....e=STRK:MEWAX:IT You may also want to see: http://i22.photobucket.com/albums/b328/Safetypin6010/Image5.jpg That shows the SH as being for a higher power bracket to the T67.... Which may help you in your decision process.

300rwkw is about the 'piece of string' mark for these motors, IMHO. They do it and are known to do it reliably, however it is at its fair limit for a reliable motor. The above is a fair example for the feasible and reliable maximum to be expected from it. Beyond that there will be compromises where you need to pick two from the list (cheap, fast, reliable). For myself redoing the RB25 story, I would have a Hypergear SS-1, fmic, TBE, bosch, injectors, z32 and ecu. Expect 250rwkw as a max and excellent torque/response.

Nice car and price, reminds me of mine. GL

Asking if it is all in by 3k I am assuming you mean is it on full song by then. Meaning full boost, peak potential for flow, etc etc etc etc. Consider for yourself, how can something that is going to be maxed out by 3000 RPM going to be good over the range? Well, its not really.. That's why we all bin the bloody thing. I binned the whole anchor of a motor to be honest, and that chewing gum gearbox. Now if you consider a turbo with a higher flow potential could get you better power up top, all you need to do is have it flowing good power in other areas where you need it. That means while its not on FULL SONG or FULL BOOST by XYZ RPM its still making plenty of flow to actually make GOOD usable power. Welcome to the wonderful world of turbo selection, and the f***ing terrible one of working with a 2.5L (to which I still have, DOH)

Did Sir Stripey Horse even buy a TD06? It's the first Ive heard of it... And were both 1JZ boys. I think these T67 items are a set result really, quite predictable.. The one making 260rwkw is on 17psi, which is relative IMO. Zebra, what did you get and how dare you keep it from me

Im fairly sure thats the traction control solenoid. Am happy to be corrected.

Try Justjap for the R33 crank, from memory they arent that expensive. As for the sump, from my reading I would retain the factory item. There doesnt seem to be much move towards aftermarket sumps in a basic sort of setup. GL

TD06SL2 depicts no compressor wheel what so ever, it is the figure after that which tells you what compressor it has. IE 20g or 25g. From what I know, T67 is simply the marketed name TRUST used to sell the TD06SL2-25G. As stated, on paper they are the same.

On paper they are the same, as for actual difference I dont think there is one... NS is shit can on its own LOL

Same shit different smell. In theory the plastic one is lighter and would spool easier on the RB20. How much of that difference will be perceivable is anyone's guess.

so im assuming you went to open t4 housing instead?

Id be very happy with that. You can pull a bit more fuel out of it and can certainly wind in a bit more boost. The big can actuator might also bring things on a reasonable amount earlier also, which would make it even better. Congrats.

Sell it and buy a turbo. If your a P plater you need to buy something fast and within your limits, otherwise accept that you purchased a slow heavy rwd car.

Know anything about the B frame items ?

*lithium double checks his turbo id tag* *finds he actually has a 52T.....*

So you went 3037 (3076R) 52T??? If so, very happy to hear it worked well (as everyone has speculated forever in a day) and look forward to seeing your results.

I JUST GOT BEAT BY A HYUNDAI ARRGHH!!!!! *GTR crash into a tree* True story bro.

Do whatever makes you happy, whatever you want more. Nothing is cheap, yet I would be damned if I could not beat a GTR with a GTS-4 dollar for dollar. Performance and reliability as said above. GL

Le sigh, Evo's are a transverse fwd based layout. I'll leave it at that, not everyone has the balls to drive fwd

Roy has managed those results with a TD06 20g on an 8cm housing. The 8cm is only available in a 3 bolt housing and you will need a custom manifold for it. An option I would explore is the 10cm T3 with a gate welded off the housing. I think this would get you the said 260kw without need of moving to a highmount manifold. For that kind of power the high mount will sound nice but probably wont yield much of a gain.

What if it were backward mounted it on a transverse fwd motor? There's a reason they offer it standard or reverse which is application specific. Where its mounted on the motor is a reasonable example to which the OP will need to get his head around to understand what hes doing for this project and future.

lol agreed. Never know, it just might have ceramic plating on the exterior for re-entry! Be it myself building one of these cars I would be aiming for over 400rwkw on a sorted 3L motor, with -5s.. That being said is money on its own... The question really does raise as to how much better it would be to a T04Z sized turbo, and with technology like the EFR's what the future holds for said setups is anyone's guess. That's a whole other thread on its own I guess.

You are talking about 375rwkw, not a difficult task for the -5s as far as known results go. I think as long as your exhaust is adequately sized, and you have the fuel and management to match, you should hit your mark. As stated already its fairly motor dependent and I am always one for a factory built motor (400rwkw factory RB26 just isn't the ticket unfortunately). Try look up Elrodeo666, hes made 600whp on his -5s from memory... Which is what I believe the envelope holds for these turbos. Motor built by HKS Japan themselves. GL

Atleast two of these are simple enough, the standard or reverse mount implies how you will mount the thing on the block. Meaning do you need a pump that pumps when spinning clockwise or anticlockwise? Reference that with your motor and how you plan to mount it. RPM speeds are also simple enough, its all application specific.. how are you going to drive it, how many rpm will your motor do, what sort of drive ratio will be on your belts etc. Think of it like under driving a water pump to stop it airating at high rpm As for flow and however many stages, you will need to speak to people who have built these sort of setups before. Vivia la 10k oil setup!

Mine shit itself with anything more than a TBE