GTScotT

+1 exciting news! Goodluck!

Thanks for the more constructive comments guys, appreciated from all. Matter has since been put to rest.

I actually have to agree regarding what TD05 20G results Ive seen... Yet am dubious of the ability of an 18G. When this all gets too difficult I'll buy an SL2 25G lol

LOL @ Superman. Someone needs to try the 10cm 3037 also, he may be said Superman based on popularity!

Obviously size and trim are only a part of the equation, I know, as there is the design involved aswell. Be it so simple why would new technology arrise? We have always had control over size and trim, its not like it takes 30 years to think of a new size and trim combo. What I'm saying is, while I have bastardised and simplified the terms to a ridiculous extent, I realistically just wanted to put forward that I have lost faith in simply dropping compressor size to make up for a lack of response. I am more so looking towards matching the largest and most efficient compressor to turbine as possible. That being said I still like the 52t 3037 combo better than I do the 56 I also would like to put forward that my hunt is not for the most PSI at the lowest RPM but actually the broadest powerband within usable RPM limits, irrespective of boost pressure acheived at any RPM.

Lets not forget Kando Dynamic is an ebay seller

I am begining to believe powerband mostly relies on the size and trim of the turbine wheel, more than it does the sizes of housings and definitely not directly related to the size and trim of the compressor. The Dr Drift result posted above shows that 68mm compressor or not its still a 61mm turbine in response. We all know the HKS GTRS and 3071R use the same GT35 compressor wheel, yet there is no way the GT30 variant would be able to keep up on spool vs the GT28 turbine on a said RB25. Even Stao has shown his G2 to G3 turbos are not so dissimilar in response and powerband to which I believe is due to them running the same turbine wheel. Looking at his now very impressive SS series, they are running a different size and trim turbine with the same 71mm compressor found on the G2 (to my understanding). Even the SS-2 using his billet 71mm wheel shows to have excellent response results, and if I were to read the thread over again.. I am sure he also tested that billet job on his resular 60mm turbine... To which I believe the result was pointless and better off running the G3 compressor. To my point; I now am of the firm belief that when sizing a turbo you should base your compressor on the outright flow you plan to put to the wheels, then size your turbine based on how you plan to achieve it. In my case I would want the smallest possible turbine wheel that can flow the said output. That being said, a TD05H 20G may be a good option to shoot for top response and maximum powerband on a 250rwkw sort of level, possibly over. I know evos can see 230 awkw on a TD05H 16G (far smaller compressor) and it is not uncommon to see 270 from the 20G wheel even on our 2.5L 6s. I will continue to explore options and will send a PM about flange changes today.. Turning T2 based turbos into T3.

Cheers for your input Roy, very much what I needed to hear. As for your comments on TD06 25G and T67 25G... Me and Simon are of the opinion the TD06SL2 and the T67 turbine are the same item, would you care to add anything on the topic? Also, if anyone knows the use of the "Standard TD06 65mm" and "TD06H 67mm" wheels, we could see some good use come of Kando's internal gate items. I recently noticed an internal gate TRUST item was running an identical rear housing to the below item: http://cgi.ebay.com.au/Kinugawa-Turbocharger-3-TD06H-20G-12cm-T3-RB25DET-/280669280977?pt=AU_Car_Parts_Accessories&hash=item4159315ad1 I have a feeling this would be a good bang for buck item on the RB25.

I honestly expected as much, there is a limit to everything and usable power is no exception. Obviously the cars and drivetrains are a variable, but the above goes to show you dont need a 450kw (50,000) GTR to have a fast car. Im hoping I can find a 'street' limit for my car sub 300kw.. And will happily document it when the time comes. At the moment I am set on running a Kando item, likely to be a 20G. I am tempted to run the 8cm housing BUT want to run the T3 variant so I can rep up the RB25 guys.

That information is contrary to anything I have found on this site, care to link?

R34 N1s are -7s, and yes they will get you around 300kw.

Yes housings are not identical, however the specs are the same. I will agree they are not identical but I will say that -5s are as 2530 as 3076R is 3037.

Be it myself I would change plan to -7s, get a good used motor, do a 100k service on it including a clutch, put it in and leave it at stock boost until I can afford to do more. Admittedly that would require me accepting a final outcome of 300kw atw and no more, yet that would also overcome future overheads of the endless list of modifications needed to justify the use of -5s. I would agree with -9s as Ash said however am of the opinion they warrant AFM's + Injectors when -7s can be utilised (almost) in full without. Thats a saving of ATLEAST $1500, based on experience. Its the owners call, but a great deal more research is needed before any decisions are made.

If you still have the stock twin setup and chasing up to 400kw, you will save an absolute packet by running -5s. Going T04Z is more going to be for chasing 450+, so you will have the added lag to go with it. Which ARE 2860-5s.

Find a used motor with warranty, Japan autos sold me mine and Im very happy with the condition. You will save a packet and have the car back on the road asap. GL

First things first, the above mentioned turbos require some serious work. Beyond 400kw atw (and from a single) you will need the following: External fuel pump, usually 2 Surge tank lift pump new fuel lines front to rear braided fittings everywhere a $2000 intercooler not including the pipes and thats provided you find one used an external gate work half what the turbo is a quality manifold worth almost as much as the turbo head porting worth more than the turbo Lets put it in lame-mans terms, $20,000 minimum. You could however say, 400kw atw will be enough. Strap on some 2860-5s, use stock location parts that are all off the shelf, use ONE fuel pump and the standard lines, etc etc etc, no worries at all. However you could be a bored mining engineer and/or a dealer of some sort OR maybe someone who thinks they can strap on a turbo and hey presto! Heres some 2860-5 love: You will get similar power results from a T04Z, but need to ditch your standard manifolds ETC and add a fair bit of cost. But it will be sexy etc. The T04Z will be missing some spool. You could also punt unknown grounds on one of those new EFR turbos, they apparently spool fast and make bulk power given lots of boost and alcohol based fuels. GL

One for Simon, how do u find the t67 vs your old t04z? I would love to know.

OK, my 2c.. Doing EJ motor is going to be next to impossible, I would let this dream go quick smart. What you do want is something reasonably powerful with a broad and reasonably high revving. That way you have the grunt to go fast, and done need to break traction everywhere OR fight for power. How to do it? Sub average capacity 4 with a turbo. If I remember correctly.. It is either an RB20 crossmember OR RB20 engine mounts you need to be able to bolt a CA18 or SR20 straight into the KE chassis. A CA18DET with a T28 will give you a good 160rwkw that wont make it an absolute shitfight to drive and will make it a low 12 second car. This is what I would do. Personally I would probably fit a T25G off an S13 SR20DET and run the stock ecu with a decent exhaust and cooler.. Call it up to 140rwkw and just keep smilling. Easy to do, cost effective, good on fuel, cheap to maintain, no need for excessive modification or non factory setups and a fast car. All in all, win.

If its still got enough parts to run a stock ecu, put the stock ecu back in and see what that does. The motors performance is only as good as the tune.

The hard lines of the 34 will mean even if the 32 front bolted on, the guards would have to be customised to look ok. Theres next to no chance it will bolt up either, I say let it go and buy a GTR

Has a T04B comp cover and 'silvia' based turbine housing, so definitely need custom everything yea. The direct bolt on thing is not without some stuffing around yeah.. But agreed all original items will bolt back on in the end with a little 'love'.

The astonishment in amazing results never ends!

OH YEAH?!?!??!!?!11!! Dont make me huff and puff and blow your house down! Kidding, well see Mr Duracell lithium ultra I have a few concepts Im toying with at the moment, yet my primary objective is to get this thing on the track as quickly and as cheaply as possible WITHOUT the use of the factory twins. No doubt the FFP has changed the motors dynamic VE, yet I am dubious to what extent and effect. Yet I honestly am no expert in this sense either.. I just HAVE to point out a healthy motor to begin with, thats a major factor in my eyes.

He mentioned it was a leak, but not specific to an oil leak. I assume an airleak was discovered which is why the compressor housing o-ring is being blamed. If the comp housing has not been rotated since build I would consider this a fault. If the comp housing has been rotated even once since, I would not offer any warranty on the product. Its a 30c part anyway, personally I wouldnt bother returning it to supplier.

Save your dollar and change the turbo to suit your application, the 35R with 1.06 housing is more like your aiming for 400rwkw. You could simply swap out your rear housing to a .82 item and shoot for 350rwkw, response will be great and power will be thick and plentiful. If your aim is honestly 300rwkw, the above mentioned 3076 with .82 rear will be an all out animal. I would recommend this over the said twins (-9s), not to undercut the stripey horse but redeveloping your entire setup to achieve 300rwkw is not necessary. Consider the twins will cost you over 2k to buy, plus redoing your exhaust and intercooler, obtaining all the factory piping etc etc etc and making your car THAT much harder to work on. You could buy a 3076R that uses the same rear housing arrangements and dimensions as the 35R, it will also have the same 4" intake and your intake pipes will even easily accomodate the change. The 3076 would set you back a maximum of something like $1800 from GCG and you would have near the ultimate 300rwkw turbo for a 3L motor. Youtube amuse supra, its got a 3076R on it and has BULLSHIT levels of power/response.