GTScotT

Zeb if its a 25g wheel you want he has plenty of T3 ex gate options available? From what I know the T67 is going to be the best one to go with for power/response. If you are refering to 20g items he has these also but not as popular. Maybe just ask and he can send you or make you one. I have to say though, its hard to find info on which TD06 wheel is best suited to what application. It shits me to tears. For the SR dude, try these: http://cgi.ebay.com.au/Turbocharger-Kinugawa-TD05H-20G-w-T518Z-T25-Housing-/270733294103?pt=AU_Car_Parts_Accessories&hash=item3f08f63a17 http://cgi.ebay.com.au/Turbocharger-Kinugawa-TD06SL2-20G-w-T518Z-T25-Housing-/270733294338?pt=AU_Car_Parts_Accessories&hash=item3f08f63b02 The TD05 will spool faster and the TD06 will hold more power. The TD05 version should be good for 240rwkw? while the TD06 for maybe 260+ but a fair whack more lag. If your aiming for 200rwkw with a little more headroom and bolt on application, why didnt you just have your stock turbo built to 2871 52t specs and have yourself a no name HKS GTRS? thats all it is at the end of the day. GL

Word is that the recent rise in that area does not carry many individual responsible persons, yet it could just be a random cashing in on somebody elses guaranteed fall and/or it could just be trash talk. I dont see why everyone needs to point out that I said he knows people in high places, like KWing the comment automatically makes you internet staunch. The last 2 workshops who got plundered did similar and managed to get their stuff back. One GTScotT on one SAU might not scare any big bad keyboard warriors, but one dubious comment might get someone to ask the right question, potentially showing a flaw in someones game. The car is probably mostly in a metal bin by now and its drivetrain with new ID numbers going into another car or vise versa. As much as one dubious comment might spark the right question, sevral morons calling my bluff could just as easily have it dismissed. Thanks greatly for the support (and honestly so to those who did comment with their IQ). Mods please lock.

If I knew who it was it would be back with us by now, however word comes down the chain implies that 6 degrees of separation may spread the news of who exactly is not impressed. Its a shot in the dark yet youve got to do everything you can to get it back. Theres an odd chance someone who knows something may just look on this forum and become rather weary of the situation. Ask the right questions to the right people and it will end up back in safe hands (if its not already long gone). But hey, I tried and Im fairly sure failed. Just going to hope I eventually hear back who it was

Yeah I know, just hoping that word comes down the chain of who it is. Only a small number of people in that area that would do it unless they werent local. The guys just doing it hard, no third party insurance etc. as he was driving an old POS he got so he could sell the RVR. Really shitty circumstances, not much I can say. I just hope who took it is actually a known person so they can lock it and leave it somewhere for cops to find. If its just some 2 bit kid who stole the thing then there really is no hope

I doubt any responsible SAU member is in any shape or form responsible, yet forums attract all sorts and word travels fast. The guy is the most honest person I know, it just so happens that he is so nice that his reputation for being a good bloke has spread to a point that 'friends in whatever place' are certainly not happy about what has happened. Please keep your comments constructive and try to grasp the depth of the situation, without need to say anything unnecessary. Im sure that the majority of mature members on this forum will well and truly understand my position. Thanks,

Righto so, A Gunmetal Mitsubishi RVR license plate BC61PJ was stolen from Drummoyne in the early hours of this morning. The car belongs to a close friend who has been in a spot of financial hardship for some time now, the car is uninsured and is a crucial part of his families ultimate survival. The luck component: Lucky for him, he has friends in high places. Unlucky for the thief, he has friends in high places. My best advice is that the car turns up unscathed immediately. Do this and the matter will be forgotten. Do nothing and you will be found, hopefully by authorities. Regards,

Your mod list is good, all of the above sounds decent. Ditch the FPR as stated. Nistune the ECU, ditch the BOV for the stock item (trust everone on this) and do something about your turbo. Without changing your injectors and AFM you are limited to about 230rwkw, hypergear should be able to do a highflow for this kind of application for about a grand. If you want more than this you will need injectors and an AFM (add 1000 for used parts or 1500 for new parts). Then hypergear can also sort you out highflows up to 300 kw (but add lag for every interval of 40kw) that will bolt on. I recommend doing the AFM atleast and shoot for 240rwkw from a highflow using all stock housings. GL

Put it this way, if you arent sure what changing the turbos would involve off the top of your head, you surely arent ready to handle such a task. I have done many conversions and do not like the idea of doing GTR turbos with the motor in the bay.

The item in your photos is the real deal HKS item. I had one of these and can confirm that is what you are meant to have. If you do not have faith in the construction of the item I would recommend you have one custom made. Give the turbo to any competent exhaust shop and they will laser you a flange, then fit the turbo to the car and have them make the dump for you. From memory the outlet of the 3 bolt flange is either 62, 65 or 67mm...... So there could be some gains BUT it has honestly proven to work on every bolt on kit known. Plus HKS are no Hong Kong Special, they are the real deal.

About 0.0197hp/$1 at the fly. Find the turbos suggested output and do the math, then consider that as a rough minimum. Your chasing the wrong product, Honda has the power of dreams!

Correct me if I am wrong yet the Tomei item is not suited to bolt on application. From my limited knowledge the Tomei is a higher flowing pump which would probably require more than a simple restrictor to head oil supply. The JUN item is said to be really good and is also the choice of a close friend on here after some careful (and dubious) research. You may want to consider this item also yet try to stay as close to an OEM replacement item as possible unless you are going for specific goals and have a big build in the process. Drift + added oil flow could be an issue, especially when all you are doing is banging in a piece that changes the ID of the oil pressure capillaries.

SMS sent re 2835

Spot on.

Sorry but I fail to see the logic there? The FNT update seemed to yield excellent improvements... Unless the tech could not be adapted to this housing design I cant see why you wouldnt want to add to it also? In my thoughts your FNT tech might further improve the response again.. ? The flange plate I would want would just be as simple as possible without any obstruction to the exit of the turbo, making it easy to construct press-fit split dump pipes. I will have a 6boost manifold soon and may be interested in prooving your theory on the 340rwkw G3 if some more developement on response can be implemented.

I used a 90 degree silicon bend, 2-2.25 inch and a short piece of 2.25 pipe. Clamp the piece of pipe into your stock hose on the cooler pipe and use the silicon bend to join that to the turbo. Simple as that.

I have done this conversion a few times and recommend the following: S14/15 OEM exhaust manifold S14/15 OEM turbo + all elbows and intake snorkel 3" off the shelf TBE to suit your model Brass T-piece for oil pressure switch from Pirtek 1M oil line to meet T and turbo from Pirtek 2 x banjo-bolt barbs for 5/8 water hose to suit turbo 3M 5/8 HIGH TEMP water hose and 4x hose clamps from turbo to throttle body 1 x turbo drain pipe and sump drilled in OEM blanked position to suit + hi temp oil resistant hose (roughly 40cm) off the shelf FMIC kit to suit your model any SR20DET injectors (from S13-S15) even RB25DET ones will work Fuel pump ECU remap You will not need to change the AFM as the factory AFM is equal in capability to the DET AFM. You cannot use the DET ecu as it is a different harness and uses coilpacks etc (yet I have also done this conversion too) Expect an easy 180rwkw that will be faster than your average 'bolt-on' SR20DET setup. The above in an S13 has net me 0-100 in under 5s and 0-200 in under 13s, the torque from the added compression is valuable to say the least. Alternatively you could spend $3500 on a halfcut then put a TBE, FMIC and make an average 160kw (unless you get something T28 powered or put one on).

Stao are you going to adapt FNT technology to this new housing? As I have changed from RB to JZ engine the dump flange area is honestly the only thing stopping me from buying one of your turbos. What would it cost to do a different dump flange pattern/design?

Without getting into a ridiculous debate, ONE of the reasons manufacturers introduced BOVs on turbocharged vehicles was to improve the longetivity of the item. Im not sure what you freshies know these days, but 5 years ago buying a 200sx meant you would probably need to change the turbo at some stage. Now think back in order of popularity for fully sick rides, the 200sx is up there, as is its famous 'pinched hose' dose effect. Get yourself a skyline (that has hardly been tampered with) with a stupid ceramic turbo with probably double the Ks of your old 200sx (in reality) and hey presto! Still running the OEM item isnt it? Get a BOV put on, pretty much case closed scenario.

Lol sounds like some all-out fail turned to epic win!

Stao can you provide photos of the new turbine housing at the rear side? I want to see the dump flange area. And is there a non skyline specific version that is not v-band?

Put the new RB20 in without rebuilding it. Send your turbo to hypergear and tell him what sort of power you want, should cost about 1100 to do to whatever spec you want. Get a Z32 for 300, get a nistune for 1200. Get a fuel pump for 200 Get GTR injectors 2nd hand, no idea on the price but you should be safe. You could even go for 250kw, shouldnt be a problem other than lag.

Sometimes I pitty you lol. Where oh where does it end.. Cut a sample of the hose (for size) go to repco and buy a few meters of it for under $10. Go home and install the BRAND NEW HOSE that does not have any holes in it. See if the leak is still there? How bout you also note, if you undo the hose from its source (with the motor off) and suck/blow in it, does it makes a hiss sound from the pressure of your own breath?

No worries, its just that it significantly outflows the factory manifold... So running it within the limits of the factory manifold will get you sub standard results. You would be better off with a turbo that suits the factory manifold and reap the benefits of added spool and response. Going interal gate also saves you a packet and isnt as cop bait. There was some talk that the TD06SL2-20G 10cm T3 would be awesome for sub 300rwkw application but even then you need to plumb a gate and it starts to become questionable just how much better it might be than a hypergear bolt on item..

Agreed that it looks like a fairly normal graph for an average GTST, would get that pump changed though.

No two ways about it if you ask me, you are wasting your time with this turbo unless you get a manifold for it.