GTScotT

Stao has hit the mark in his next comment, most people ask for 300rwkw and he already has products that address that. If he can quite easily make one that will do near 300, im sure he can do one that will do 250.

Thats interesting! I need to have another read. Wish Egay worked AT WORK lol.

The SL2 wheel is apparently the same wheel but cropped to 61mm instead of yours which is 67mm. Sort of like the 30R that gets cropped to the 2835.

If you have a hypergear turbo and want something different, why not contact hypergear and see if he can modify what youve got for a price? His after sale service is EXCELLENT.

Exactly! Plus your turbo out flows the factory manifolds effective limit. If you went for the 20g-sl2 kando turbo, you could do what is being suggested and could potentially have HKS2835 like results, but hey you could spend a shit load less on a hypergear and still be doing pretty good and VERY stealthy. Have we seen the recent addition to the kando range? A TD06SL2-25G 10cm T3 with surge ported compressor cover.... small trim 61mm turbine with small trim 78mm compressor, surge porting indicates we could have some SPOOL on our hands.... Anyone game to try a 3076R killer? Would need to be gated is the only downside

Ho ho ho!! Self proclaimed intellectual in the house. Enough said now, thank you greatly.

Then get yourself a hypergear ATR43SS-2 or an ATR43G2 or even a G3 It will cost you comething like 1500, then you will need another couple of hundred dollars work to get it to bolt up. Get the supporting mods and you will have a setup that will make the power you want with as little hassle as possible and net great results. The kando turbos are for people doing $5000+ turbo installs who would rather spend 800 for good performing turbos rather than $2000 on a garrett. The total cost is still going to be ALOT more than what else is available. Consider: Turbo 800 Manifold 1300 (new 6boost) Custom dump 400 minimum Wastegate 300 minimum Custom metal intake 200 Custom hotside cooler pipe 150 Custom lines 150 Compare to hypergear'ing a R33: turbo 900-1500 depending on what spec you want exhaust utilies same position and bolt pattern as stock, so use whatever uve got at the moment (1000 will get you a turbo back system, if you have a catback then budget 360 for a bellmouth dump and 3" cat @180ea) Custom metal intake 200 90 degree silicon joiner and a piece of pipe 50 The turbo would be on the car and running for the above cost. You could even just send him your stock turbo and get something back that will do 260rwkw NO WORRIES. Bolt it back in as it came out, as long as you have the supporting mods you just saved yourself the 3or so grand it costs to bolt one of the basic Kando turbos to your car. It should be well known that while these turbos are fk'ing great, they are not bolt on items and will cost a fking packet to get on properly. The turbos themselves are excellent value for money, but thats only if you are comparing them to installing another external gate turbo, period. Hypergear really does take care of most sub 300rwkw applications for an EXCELLENT price.

Im confident in saying the RB30 would actually cap off much earlier in power to the RB25. The rear housing would bring the chra up to vmax much earlier and therefore would be pumping hot air into a housing not big enough to support it. Kind of like neeing a 50mm gate to run a .63 gt30, its because the .63 rear will make shaft speed reach the turbos max flow too early and you will need to bleed off excess via the massive gate. In regards to your issue Kris, I would be trying to tie the gate shut and run it without the vac line connected. Remove and block the line that goes to the actuator, then use some steel wire or similar to tie the gate shut also. Be careful not to boost to infinity and beyond because im confident your motor wont like it. Do the simple test on your VCT also, its a good avenue to check. With the comment noting that you didnt have the problem prior to installing the turbo, I am assuming you also didnt have whatever is tuning it prior to your turbo install either. You have not noted what ecu you are running? At the moment it is fair to assume you may not even have VCT connected, please elaborate on this particular item first.

And the search function will never pick the thread back up again in future? Noone will ever read it again? Maybe OP was taking the piss, maybe he wasnt, but hes not the only person that will read this thread. Like the bloke in the US that read a thread exactly like this about flushing his engine. Moron went and drained the oil then started it with the garden hose in the filler hole to flush it out. Most dickheads found it amusing, but some adventurous idiot who should never have worked on his own car tried to do a lil DIY and got stung. The read tone in your own post makes it sound like your being serious, if I were as smart as you I might have even believed you.

+1 Get the turbo redone before you get the nistune done. Send the thing down to hypergear and tell him what you actually want and what motor its going on. GL

The stock manifold is not compatible with the turbo Simon is running. The power he is getting exceeds the limit of the factory manifold and the turbo is too large to bolt on. You will need an aftermarket item like a 6boost or similar.

Check your actuators preload and maybe even add a little. Keep trying to troubleshoot the issue, if it ends up being the turbo I am sure Stao will come to the party. As for whats next, what dump pipe are you using and have you tried to drop the exhaust before the cat and see if that helps? How was the car running before the turbo went on? And what else is done to the car...

Dont listen to these f**kwits, they just want you to ask why your motors blown after putting diesel in it. The only way you could do a diesel conversion is by putting a diesel motor in it. The car will be slow as shit and will have costed a packet to build. There are no easy to transplant diesel motors that will resemble the performance of a modern european diesel, like a TDI golf or something.... So yeah, dont bother. This is just about the only real way to do it, but yeah slow as and really not worth doing. Its an engine conversion and will result in a car slower than your mums corolla. I think thats the end of the thread guys, you really should know better than to carry on the way you did. There is plenty of evidence that less knowledgable people have followed such garbage and cost themselves thousands in repair costs. Please lock.

What wastegate actuator are you using? If you are using the standard one please have hypergear send you a high pressure item.. The stock actuator wont be strong enough for that application. If Stao supplied you with a high pressure actuator, follow his instructions on pg 67 of his thread on how to check the preload on the actuator. The actuator should need to be pulled really hard to make it slip over the actual flap lever. I believe it needs to be half its diameter (the hole) shorter than an easy slip on.. I believe adjusting it a little tighter than that wouldnt hurt either.

If they are really jecs injectors then they would probably be great, however you have no real way of testing. Why dont you find someone to highflow your stock injectors once you need to get it done? Its cheap, easy and proven not to be too bad tune wise etc.

Read the hypergear thread, everything you want is in there. Also, it is known that a 2.5L 6 will make 1 hp per cc of your injectors. Thus 370cc injectors will probably max out at 370hp = 277kw, which would probably result in something like 240rwkw. GL

The S1 does not have a steel comp wheel, I dont know a single turbo which would have a steel comp wheel. However the correct statement is: They are essentially the same turbo, same specs and same ceramic POS turbine wheel. The S1 has a traditional alloy compressor wheel while the S2 has a nylon wheel. I have no idea about the s1.5 yet the s1 and 2 will be interchangeable without noticeable difference.

My 2c = Put a new thermostat (OEM) and a factory radiator in it. Im confident this will fix the issue. As Ash said, intercoolers can be a problem. I had an older model JJR core on a car of mine a few years back and had all world of trouble.

Specifically, 12psi @ 3000rpm with 300rwkw to boot is a tall order. 3000rpm is next to nothing and at those revs with that boost this turbo will still be feeling lethargic. Try to grasp that boost @ rpm wont = power nor response, so planning where you want to hit 12psi is next to useless. What you do want to plan is at what RPM you start making good power. The general consensus for good response is 200rwkw @ 4000rpm. It is a slightly tall order from a 3076r in a reasonable cost effective setup, you will see most making the 140-180 mark. That sort of power and response can be experienced through a highflow, yet the torque and overall feel of the turbo will suffer. I think you will keep being referred back to the highflow option more than anything else, yet make sure you pick a builder who has well documented results.

The honest easiest way is definitely a highflow, as stated above. We would have no idea about your options in the UK, yet if you are not after a very specific setup you should just decide how much power you want, or how fast you want to go, then pick your turbo to suit. For example if you were in aus and wanted sub 300rwkw with as little as hassle as possible you would simply buy a hypergear G2 or G3 turbo for 260 or 300rwkw respectively. Obviously these would net the results and save you alot of cash, spending the VAST amount more would net you the same result with a better outcome overall. Overall implying drivability, spool etc.

It would be nice to see this option with a T4 TS IW housing on it. Originally it was a consideration for my own project, right till I found they cancelled the plan for T4 TS IW housings on the smaller turbines. Even if it were to make 450whp on 98 the response is excellent, we would all be out ordering gateless 6boob jobs me thinks.

This wont help because I am suggesting the restriction is at the flange plate off the back of the turbo. I think the turbo-dump section is causing turbulence. Stao you may want to make note of my comments for future developtment of your turbine exit to RB bolt pattern rear end.

Search for Kando Dynamics on EBAY, thats where you get the said item for $800ish. As for a TD05, take an evo into consideration. 2L 4pot that can do up to 240awkw on a TD05 16G with boost coming on before 3000 and revving to an easy 8000. If I was doing an RB20 and could afford a custom manifold, I would grab an actual stock evo twin scroll turbo, from an evo 5,6 or 9 (they have a 10.5cm housing) and would get it fitted up. If it ended up not enough power you can have GTPumps fit it with 18 or 20g compressors OR you could sell the item and get a Kando Dynamic bolt on replacement. I anticipate you could take care of the whole job for under $3k.

Hanaldo, Ive said this a few times on the forum yet a few years back I experienced a problem similar to yours. The issue was I had an 80mm front pipe and a 76mm cat. The 4mm smaller ID caused all sorts of issues and resulted in about 60rwkw less than expected. We swapped to a fairly standard 80mm cat and got the 60rwkw back. Im not suggesting your cat is bad or the wrong size, but im suspicious about your custom made dump. For the money I highly recommend you grab a justjap bellmouth dump, they are only $189 brand new... Im not sure how much shipping to WA will be though.

Your definitely not going to lose 150hp through the drivetrain. More like 50 - 80 max. So you really should be seeing an easy 260rwkw from this turbo, which is more like 350-360rwhp. I have definitely got faith in Stao's products for the outcome he advertises them to produce, and his customer service is near second to none. You should definitely take him up on the offer of swapping his result proven turbo with yours, it will rule out ANY further question in the turbo itself. Like Stao has already told you, its not impossible that the turbo is faulty however it is far more likely that you have another problem somewhere else. I fully support Stao on this notion, and feel you may need to engage another workshop (after you have swapped turbos with him). Can I ask what dump pipe you have on the car? Direct from the turbo to the cat, who makes the item and can you take a photo?