GTScotT

youve not seen the results from Simon? lol Im tempted to go the kando SL2 20G but Im not sure if I should try something outrageous and go for an evo twinscoll housing to match. Your results do give me some confidence that it would be an epic turbo for the RB25, 250kw@12psi and 12psi by 2300 would probably be no more than 1000rpm worse on a 2.5L (more like 500 I think) and would easily push the same figure with an extra 2psi. Evo dudesssss push these things to 1.8 bar NO WORRIES (actually they do that with the stock 16g too). Majorly considering a simple T3 IW 8cm job when its available.. Kando = winnarr

WOA, YOU! How did you find the 20G on power for a 6? How much power did it push? And what exhaust wheel were you running with what size rear housing? Sorry for the attack, just trying to gauge as much as I can on the 20G topic. Thanks,

12cm evo X housing, now were talking business. I think a call to GTP is in order... I need more info re reverse rotation turbos. There has got to be a reason why they are able to use SL2 and 20G wheels in the reverse rotation housings.. Need to get back on topic, poor Kando!

You are correct reharding the R type turbines, however the TD06SL2 wheel has been used in these housings to great success.. I am thinking the SL2 wheel must also be reversed OR the housing design makes little difference provided the compressor wheel is also the correct type. I need to call GTPumps I think.. You have to agree, this is a VERY interesting concept no?

This.

Im thinking to J-pipe my factory manifolds and run an evo twin scroll item. Assuming the exhaust wheel is big enough for the flow, what is your thought on the waste gate flapper being too small? Think it would cause boost spike and then inability to hold boost up top? Or think it would cause it to run higher boost up top. Hypergear has had some interesting results in regards to this, but it would be hard to cross reference the two. Obviously running the evo 10.5cm rear also negates any issue with the kando IW housings not holding boost (his evo turbos would run genuine or ex mitsubishi items). I knew there was going to be a grain of doubt pop up with the IW plan...

Speaking from experience alone, went from a pos his evc5 in my evo to a profec b spec 2 and was far happier. Also went from blitz SBC to turbotech in a 32gtr with factory position twins and was also MUCH happier. The turbotech has never disapointed nor failed. The profec is also quite a nifty toy with a couple of valuable features for a lightly modded car. Be it myself I would do the right foot boost control with actuators set as close to target as possible and a turbotech for added confidence on spool and gate creep.

As above, I would be confident in a simple solid lifter setup and some good springs. 9000 shouldnt be a problem. We dont exactly have any solid grounding to back up hydros failing at or beyond 8500, but it seems we have results to support the UP TO argument. I believe SimonR32 is squeezing 8200 out of a completely factory long motor.

I wonder if that 8cm T3 IW is going to handle the flow of a 2.5L.... I am days off ordering my SL2 20G and would LOVE an IW housing and am even thinking 8cm might be the ticket for BS response.. However I really want to see the thing cracking 260rwkw. It would break my heart to get the thing on the motor and be limited by the 8cm or the small IW wastegate flapper. FYI trust examples pull over 400ps on jap hub dynos ala youpoop. PPS the limitations of the wastegate flapper is what stops me getting one with a 10.5cm evo rear housing. I will need a custom manifold regardless (1JZ) so making one to suit this would be no drama, especially considering I am going to use the factory 3:1 manifolds and make a J-pipe. Maybe I should reconsider this option... Input please?

I honestly dont feel that any of the above are going to give you a real feel of response. The stock turbo, in my honest opinion, was a lazy POS. Far better could be had. My opinion of response would have to lie on a HKS GTRS. I am also going to go down the road of a TD06SL2-20G on my 1J and see how that turns out. It should meet and exceed results of a 3071 with what I anticipate will be far more midrange and outright response. To utilise the currently available kando version of this turbo you will need a gate adapter made.

Find someone capable of tidy allow welding and turn your R34 side mount into a water to air unit. It will bolt back into place and look great. You can also buy a cheap alloy rad to suit a civic from justjap, have your alloy dude mod the in and out pipes to have the water flow and buy a 12v water pump. The civic radiator is half size and will be very easy to fab behind the rear bar, paint it black and no one will pick it.

Fark you make me second guess going the 20g.... SimonR32, officially my hero. I will wet the bed for you tonight.

Is the motor tuned etc? How much power did it make? How high are you revving it? You have described cams and a lag time expected on a 1000hp 10,000rpm motor. Prepare to have everyone with a reasonable understanding of turbos tell you to buy a smaller turbo. Best to state your aims for the car in preparation of the same.

Its the same thing, TD06SL2 and T67 are refering to the turbine wheel. Its the same wheel. Same size same design etc. When trust do their thing and rebadge the turbo as their own they call the TD06SL2 wheel a T67. Generally because it was trust who mated it to a 25G compressor and called it a T67, not Mitsubishi. To he who questioned how it applies to a 2835, I have clearly stated the 20g compressor mated to the SL2 turbine wheel (T67) has been shown to spool incredibly well on a 2L motor when using a 10.5cm housing. The SL2 has also been shown to flow very high numbers, with ease, on simons car. The 20g compressor is 68mm, it is smaller and in theory will spool faster than the 71mm GT35 used on the 2835 and 3071. It also flows 450hp. 2 and 2 somehow make 4, Im just waiting to secure my own 20g and proove the theory on paper. Hopefully will order one next week.

I am more than confident you got it wet when at opperating temp. Drove thru a puddle, used the hose, etc etc. That would do it. Poor casting from the factory is the only other aspect I would dare accuse, both are just shit luck. Loose bolts or poor support are both non events when it comes to a cast item. Question: do you remember what you were doing right before it cracked and made the aweful noise?

Exactly, this is my answer to the 2835 which I cannot find/afford. Just reference the two states sources, Simons T67 results (for hot side) and all evo 20g results (for power/response indication). Power and response can ONLY be better going up to a 2.5L limited by the exhaust side choking, enter Simons results. We have a winner. Once Im back from my first overseas trip ever, Ill be buying one. Best thing is that even if Kando fold up, mitsu sell all their tooling from panels to turbos so there are more suppliers of mitsubishi turbo parts than you can poke a stick at. Hyundai motors are all ex mitsu tooling, which is why a hyundai motor is the cheapest way to do a 4G63 conversion lol.

Still shows that there arent any restrictions Realistically I think the 20G would just about suit anyone wanting a balls out responsive 260rwkw, maybe more. I think it would better HKS GTRS results to be honest, thats $3000 worth of kit to be had for $800 on ebay.

The TD06SL2 is the same wheel as the T67 Simon is running. The turbo you noted prior is the exact turbine wheel and exhaust housing. Simon has made 410rwkw with it, no restriction. Maybe the Subaru boys were refering to a different wheel, not the SL2.

They are about $800 delivered from Kando, I am itching to buy one. To note, the T67 wheel and 10cm housing OBVIOUSLY has no power restriction (ref Simons results) and results for the td06sl2-20g can be seen on more evos than you can poke a stick at. Evos generally do not struggle to make 260AWKW from the said turbo on a 10.5cm rear housing and are generally on full song by 4500rpm with epic spool before that also. The fastest evo I have driven had a td06sl2-20g 10.5cm and 272 cams, it would out rev the motor and had some serious pull from about the 3000rpm range, it had made 280AWKW on that setup and featured in a magazine. Others have made over 300awkw on these turbos with E85. Might I add we have seen Roy get 260rwkw from an RB20 of all motors on one of these turbos, with VERY acceptable spool. An RB25 would possibly spool one of these better than your average highflow. I have a feeling that we are fools for overlooking these turbos. I really am looking at grabing one for my 1J and having an all out balistic sub 300rwkw setup. The price of my turbo, manifold and gate will rival the cost of a garrett on its own. Sorry for the Hijack Simon, Im going to put together a thread some time with links to your own results (for ref to the T67 rear and 10cm housing) along with evo results (for ref of the T67 combined with 20g front on a itty bitty 2L) very soon.

You need to be sure of where the leak is coming from before you blame the turbos. As Stao mentioned, maybe the gasket for your oil return is leaking.

Leave it at FMIC and exhaust until you can afford to outlay for a package. I wouldnt bother with upping the boost more than 10psi, risky POS turbo and little gain to be had from the stock ecu. And before you think do the ecu and up the boost, may aswell highflow the turbo while your at it.

Not flange pattern friendly, unless his T04Z is a one off T3, then yeah its a good option.

Stao how much would an SS-1 cost with actuator but no oil line? Thanks,

You would need to beat Hypergear if you wanted to get anywhere. He is doing turbos that bolt into factory RB25 location and even use the factory style dump pipe that will give a no nonsense responsive 250rwkw for well within the states price bracket. He also does the same sort of arrangement with 300rwkw capability without too much of a compromise to the much more expensive garrett 3076. If you do not want to run at a loss you will need to study his thread, R&D that he has put forward to date and the constant trial and error is what has put him in the position he is today. GL

IMHO 3076 = 300~ 3540 = 340~ GCG have a range of exhaust housings available so that you will be able to bolt a 35R on without much trouble. You will need to alter your oil and water lines, your intake and hotside pipe and your dump. Expect a good gain in performance at the same boost level.