GTScotT

I believe the SS-1 to be an excellent option for customers looking at buying a GTRS without the price tag, and the SS-2 for the same market looking at a Garrett 3071 or similar. To the one that made the highflow comment, these turbos are not highflows - you do not need to send Stao your stock turbo for him to send back an SS. You can simply buy the item which will utilise the stock dump config and is stock manifold friendly. Stao I think your current range of products are becoming very hard to surpass for value. Make sure that SS-1 is affordable and im sure you will sell them like hot cakes.

Ebay NZ skyline front mount intercooler. It will do the job and be near identical quality to the justjap thing mentioned above. Find a good deal with cheap delivery.

Back to stock in a hurry. Diagnose it properly before you try to change it.... Let it be known, you should never ever try to fix a problem by replacing the suspect item with something that you do not know works. Always diagnose and repair the problem in its original working form before trying to change away from what you know DOES work. In your case, if your heart was set on running commonwhore coils, you should have dianosed the problem and proven it was your coils before trying to convert over. Maybe pay another member $20 to come over and let you use his non butchered coils and coil pack harness to see if it will start and run properly. Do that and you will know what to do. Put a thread in the relevant state section requesting the above before you waste any more time and money. P.S. walking 2KM is a joke of a thing to complain about, you can do it for a couple more days.

Are you sure they are "Green"? What other mods are done to your car?

Thank f*** I have been waiting to see a 2630 with -5s since my interest in skylines began. Wise choise Indy.

Get your google on: http://www.gtr.co.uk/forum/7428-garret-r-60-m24.html I always thought they were what was used in the Gibson pack of arseholes car but I could be wrong... Either way they are going to make bulk power and be laggier than -9s but possibly similar to -5s without the 400+kw capability. If they are on the car already just run with it, if not try sell them on and get a set of the newer gen options to suit your goals. 2860-9 for 300ish wkw 2860-5 for 400ish wkw on a built motor

Great results Stao, PM me about the CAS and ignition module.

On E85 you mean? *Enter Fineline* 600HP/450KW implies 400rwkw, we are not yanks and we do not get those numbers with ease on these turbos. I like to think 350rwkw is more realistic, if you are lucky. T04Z territory for sure IMHO.

I re read my post and note that I only mentioned the core, not pipework. I stand by my statement.

Yeah I definitely wouldnt assume cracked block off the bat... You have given the impression theres a stain but it doesnt leak water.... So which one is it?

Stao what size is your turbine wheel in the ATR43SS?? I would like to see the billet 71mm compressor mated to a 55-60mm turbine with high flow (low trapping effect) in a compact housing with FNT. Please elaborate on SS specs (to help justify costs)

Something 100mm (4") thick at minimum and a good jap brand. I dont think anyone will be able to say what the best cooler is realistically... As long as it fits the bill. PWR as stated above are good yet a local brand.. I would rather a Jap branded item (such as ARC) for known and reliable quality.

Please PM me when this turbo is available at your usual realistic prices. $1900 is not far from purchasing one of the new borgwarner EFR turbos (about $2200 landed for state of the art tech). I do understand that the cost of tooling and machine work needs to be accounted for yet believe the price is still a touch rich for my liking.

Excellent news mate, I think its the better way for you to go. You were honestly shit out of luck with 2nd hand mismatched shit. Will be good to see you finally sorted with a near bolt on alternative.

Stao can you confirm specs of this turbo? Is it the Billet 71mm compressor in RB25 SS profile? How much would this cost with generic internal gate T4 rear housing? I want to fit this to a 1JZ (2.5L) so please recommend turbo and housing, as states aiming for 280rwkw but very good torque and boost response.

Stao, do you think your turbos would perform better if you did not modify the housing to suit skyline config? I am very impressed with your recent SS results and am considering buying one of these for my 1JZ. I am not concerned with dump flange pattern as it will be a completely custom setup anyway. I simply want the strongest 280rww I can find.

Be it myself building a truck with a RB, I would simply have the factory turbo high flowed and give a description of the desired outcome to the machinist. I think Hypergear will honestly be a great option for you. Simply tone down your expectations for top end power as you really dont want a top end turbo in a truck. A basic highflow however might see you VERY happy. GL

I am assuming there is not a manual nm35 available? Doing the conversion would be much easier if you had an awd gearbox to use off the bat. Bellhousings on Nissans are not quite as fun as Toyota, I wouldn't want yo be making a custom one for it. An adaptor plate could work but the room for error just shits me... Along with the thought of having the input shaft not reaching the spiggot... This thread makes me feel bored of my JZR33 already should have done something harder lol

Yes, full race DO seem to have quite the relationship with BW.. Dont they? From memory the press release by BW made note of testing done by fullrace for the product. Smell's some 'Precise Power Tuned' love to me.

Evos use bush bearings from factory, time to get over the BB hype lol

I know I am going to get flamed, but can you please take a Hypergear into serious consideration. The most recent update for the SS profile is on par with what you would want from a mid framed Garrett. You have gone from trouble trying to piece together your setup to not being able to get a good turbo, whats next? Stao will sell you a turbo that will bolt up to the factory location and factory flange that needs very little work to get running and can produce the results.

+1 you must get a tune and the rest of the necessary gear to do job. ECU, AFM, injectors, fuel pump, etc. See a tuner about what you will need.

If you dismantle the barrel there is a simple trim pot type component that will separate from it that can be turned with a flat head screw driver. I dont see the information as sensitive as you would need a decent amount of time to get to it. Rolls, honestly I feel for you... You havent had a good run. Keep us updated on your position and parts needed as you go. Anything spare I have laying about is yours.

Relax, he hasnt said anything ridiculous other than advised the OP to check his oil for any major failure. Its fine and wasnt something worth arking up about. Now play nice and concentrate on helping Rolls get his car running again both of you.

<br /><br /><br />LMAO wow, ZING! Surely its ported? Can MR owner confirm? Maybe pics lie....