GTScotT

200cfm @ 10psi or 500cfm @ 10psi? See a problem here? The standard AFM should be maxed long before the T04Z makes 10psi.... And it is anybodies guess how much actual airflow the T04Z is pushing @ 10psi. Here are solid facts, flow = power. Psi does not = flow. There is a direct relationship between CFM and KW, that being said you can push what out of the stock injectors @ 100% duty? 220rwkw? That means there is 220kw of flow to be had out of them, exceed this and you MUST be leaning the motor out. Simple science. Now a question; is it possible that the 450rwkw capable T04Z is pushing more than 220rwkw worth of flow @ 10psi? My answer is: highly likely. Next question is, is the ecu capable of retarding timing enough to bring it back to a safe level? My answer is: highly unlikely. Next thing to note is that the WOT mixture is only a small percentage of the issue. Cruise and spool mixtures would be suffering badly due to the drastically increased airflow and the motor could be suffering from fuel wash (fuel destroying the oil providing the protective coat on cylinder bores) which would be burning rings. Get bad enough wash and you will contaminate the oil, risking your bearings while your at it. Fuel contamination is a major issue. Also, a motor can ping when rich and retarded, it depends how poor the tune is. In this case, VERY POOR.

Hey mate, I get the impression you are being serious... So I will give you as best a response as I can. The above guys are actually correct. Your problem is your ECU. The ECU is not able to cope with the change to the new turbo. To put it simply, pressure (boost) and volume (actual amount) are not relevant to each other. That means that 10psi from the stock turbo will be far less compressed air (power to be made) than 10psi from the T04Z. Your car is literally a ticking time bomb, and I can assure you that if you persist you will blow the motor very soon. You will need the following items ASAP: 700cc+ injectors A good fuel pump (if you dont have already) A map based ECU (running a Z32 AFM wont cut the mustard for a T04Z) To all experienced forum members, can you please simply +1 my post if you agree. I believe the guy is being honest and is not long off wasting 3 years of hard work on his car and motor. GL

Bad Moderator how dare you question the JZ !!!! 1 x 'JZ fan boy' over and out.

Cooking the brake master cylinder. You get a lot of heat up there.

Righto, so here are my 2c. Please note I actually turfed my perfectly healthy RB25 for a 1JZ, and am currently in the install process to my R33. I would like to clarify something about the 10 second passes issue noted above. Factory internal of each motor have acheived 10s, yes. Substantially factory 1JZ's have seen 10s is more so what people were trying to say. The debate I see on toyota forums regularly is how stock were your stock turbos when you ran the 10. Whether or not manifolds have been ported or if turbos themselves are steel wheeled or high flowed. Truth is that it is absolutely nonsense to have a motor capable of so much without even needing to setup an aftermarket turbo. To note, mod for mod on the stock turbos the 1J will see similar numbers to an early model RB26 (peak power) yet with a notable amount more torque. So, here were my options.. Persevere with my RB25 3037 setup (90% complete) and aim for 290rwkw~ or part out and for near equivalent cost setup the JZ in my car with a turn key 250rwkw~. Dollar for dollar I am down 40rwkw, quite a lot and not cheap to get back. Yet, in theory I feel the car will be faster as an all rounder anyway, and reliability will be like a factory car in comparison to the blood stained love story that would become of my RB @ that power. Mods are not necessarily more expensive and gearboxes are a synch. A 6boob still costs what a 6boob costs and an ecu is not exact abundant for an RB25 anyway (fxxxing vct). The JZ uses map sensor and most people get out of it for an emanage blue. Gearboxes are put simply, more expensive, yet not like its hard... The one you want is called an R154, its the big gun 5 speed. You will need it with a JZ bellhousing and if you cannot find one with a JZ bellhousing you can buy the thing brand new for a couple of hundred bucks. When I got my kit, there was a 1JZ twin turbo R154 halfcut available for $3200 + shipping. I sold my 3037 + RB25 gearbox alone for more than that. I am also doing 100% of the conversion myself so my costs are parts and materials. I am also confident that the motor will outlive my itch for power (condition dependent), whereas my RB was feeling the stress of the 3037 before it even hit full tune. Yet these days with the availability of highflow turbos to your desired spec, having an RB25 NEO would not be such a bad thing to work with.. However I would aim for 270rwkw or less as opposed to the token 300. 2c spent.

You are correct, the new 2835s come in a skyline specific housing rather than the unique HKS item. It could essentially be a re profiled OP6 housing. I can only imagine it to be detrimental to outright performance of the setup, yet that would of course depend on what setup it is run. At 1 bar of boost the KAI may yield more benefit to the original, for all we know HKS could be marketing these to a lighter market.. After all they are showcasing the item in reference to their GTRS.. It could be now marketed as the next level of beef on that plain rather than the next league itself (as we all usually know it). Le sigh, I still wish I had an older model 2835

Fair enough, I more so see it as the concern in ease of detonation. I think its still fair to say that changing the position of the intake would assist in avoiding detonation yet would say its also fair to agree he has hit the ceiling as far as power developement will go.

Guys his issue is not necessarily the power, he is clearly asking an opinion on if the power is accurate. No arguments there the power is reasonable. The issue is its wanting to ping. I still stand by charge temps.

A 3582 will not necessarily give you a 'safer' 300rwkw than a smaller and capable turbo would. Both a 3071 and a 3076 are capable of 280-300rwkw given the rest of the setup. Power is power, theres a certain level of power any given motor can produce before it starts to pull itself appart. Above the 280 mark is going to start impacting the longetivity of the RB25 as mentioned. Simply look at what turbo is capable of what power level in the RB25 dyno thread and decide from there. The garretts are known to make the numbers without too much stress on the motor (charge temps etc). High flows are still under scrutiny in this respect. An easy and good feeling 280rwkw is generally acheived from a 3076R .82IW. The man speaks the truth!

The KLS cooler looks like a run of the mill china job. Decent enough for what your doing but hardly the bees knees. Honestly, chuck it back on the dyno with your pod hanging out of the bonnet rather than under it. Instant answer for that one, yet guaranteed the intake temp on that would be 60 degrees on its own BEFORE its compressed IMO.

The fact its doing it up top is whats making me think its the charge temps. Be it timing or the CAS I would expect it to be more likely to occur when coming onto power, or if it were electrical and up top I would expect it to be erratic. This seems more consistent with poor charge temp due to the position of the pod. Dont forget as revs rise under bonnet temps soar as the manifold gets hot and emits heat, and the clutch fan pulls more hot air through the rad which has only one place to go, the big vacuum right besides it.

One thing to try, get a long piece of pipe, put it between the pod and the turbo and see if you have the problem when you are ingesting room temp air rather than post radiator air.

Dont give up, there is still a lot to do but the rewards will be worth it. I honestly think you should scrap the turbo you have now in total. By the time you fix it and get the correct housing you will have already paid for a new one. Buy yourself a 3071 or 3076 with .82 IW brand new.

You will obviously need to undo the bolts for it to come off, yet leaving them half in so you can tap it out progressively is a good idea for the exact reason you have mentioned. When I did mine I was unable to undo a couple of the bolts unless the housing was slidding off with them. If it is rusted it also will not rotate. GL

I dont see mods arguing? Keep to the topic. Lots of WD40 and be careful with the hammer. It can be a discouraging process yet be careful and try to move it off evenly.

What looms are they connected to? If one of them is on the charge circuit (big altenator plug and strap on the same loom) then it MUST be bolted to the altenator.

He probably took it off the V8 because it was choking the life out of it. 430whp from a 355ci turbo is pathetic at best. Stop talking mythology and start talking science. End of the day, it has been proven that .63IW is a NO GO for an RB25 with a 3076. You have a 3082, see the problem? You have added 100HP of compressor with the same turbine wheel (same realistic flow capability) and are using a housing that is proven NOT to work with the lesser mentioned option. We have also seen members FRY the CHRA on 3582's with .82 housings. This is because of the temperatures seen on the exhaust side. The 3582 has a much larger and free'er flowing exhaust wheel, which would pose a far lesser issue when posed with a housing constraint. .82 or quit while your ahead.

Far out, sometimes this forum amazes me. Serious question can now have its serious response, contact GCG and a new internal gate rear housing and actuator. Sell your top mount manifold and gate to recoup costs. Get the .82 AR MINIMUM as this turbo is going to be hard to optimize in the IW housing. Best results would be a quality manifold and quality gate on a NEW .82 AR non IW housing. Go with option 1 and switch to option two if you fail, resale on the parts used to try do stealth IW will be decent. good luck.

If you want a quick remap for more power, contact Toshi on this forum. He can chip the stock ECU and tune it for a very reasonable price, with known GOOD results. All motors in all cars will react differently to a harder tune, no off the shelf tune other than something as tame as stock will be safe to simply plug into your car without proper testing.

Direct from wiki: "Toluene at 86% by volume fueled all the turbo Formula 1 teams in the 1980s, first pioneered by the Honda team. The remaining 14% was a "filler" of n-heptane, to reduce the octane to meet Formula 1 fuel restrictions. Toluene at 100% can be used as a fuel for both two-stroke and four-stroke engines; however, due to the density of the fuel and other factors, the fuel does not vaporize easily unless preheated to 70 degrees Celsius (Honda accomplished this in their Formula 1 cars by routing the fuel lines through the muffler system to heat the fuel). Toluene also poses similar problems as alcohol fuels, as it eats through standard rubber fuel lines and has no lubricating properties as standard gasoline does, which can break down fuel pumps and cause upper cylinder bore wear." In other words, it does not suit Joe Blow back yarders trying to save a buck. Engine(s) cost more than fuel in the long run.

True?! I always thought it was a 2871 GTRS with a 76mm front wheel... How sure are you that it is the cropped GT30 rear wheel? If this was the case, we could use this CHRA to build 2835 variants. Simply have GCG redo it with a 71mm front wheel to make a 2835 spec CHRA or even build a GTX2835. The only issue will be the exhaust housings, the OP6 would probably be the easiest way to go.

Not that I know the car, but wouldnt 15" be much tougher and better fit? That 240Z that everyone knows (the rusty one) runs 15x10 and 15x11..... the article is on speed hunters: http://speedhunters.com/archive/2009/11/04/car-feature-gt-gt-that-240z.aspx

I have looked but cannot find my source on paulr33.com.... Yet can the GTR PFC not be switched between D and L jetro? I could have sworn id read this when looking at cross compatibility of RB26 PFC to RB20 and RB25...

Repco, take a sample, 30 bucks or something. Unless you think the dearer ones are better for drifting

co2 test the radiator, most good mechanics can do this.